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Okay, the short back story... Bought the car, drove it 10 days, spun a rod bearing. Cranks was shot as was the head. Found a used motor, supposedly around 45,XXX miles. Replaced the oil pump, water pump, all required gaskets, used the coil and thermostat housing from my original engine, new clutch kit, new pass side cv joint.
So after weeks of work i finished the motor last weekend and started the car with good results, a little rough idle but thats to be expected with a warehouse engine. No CEL's! I had to wait for the shifter cables and the cv axle so I couldn't drive it. Last night I installed the cables and CV joint and took for a spin. Ran great no issues...Until I got home! Crankshaft seal leaking! [rant]
So, got that replaced this morning, re-timed and took the car for several drives and cycles including a couple at WOT.

Now, the current issue... The minor issue is a small hesitation/stumble in first occasionally. Plan to remove the TB and clean the IAC, TPS, and MAF to correct this. The issue I dont understand is the CFC light. So driving under any condition, happened in first under load and sixth coasting and everywhere in between, the ignition will shut off, tack drops out, CEL, CFC, and BATT lights illuminate and the car has no power. The tack reads zero if with the clutch out in sixth at 65 mph...the engine is obviously still turning...
but, heres the weird part...when I push the clutch in...the ignition re-fires, the lights go out, the tach comes up, and the power is back like nothing happened! First time i got out, removed and replaced the fuel cap, seemed fine. The odd thing is it seems more related to time than conditions. in other words, it happens like every six minutes of driving instead of in fifth gear, under no load, when hot, etc...
So...did i miss an evap hose durring the swap? or what? And why doesn't the CFC or CEL stay on?

Anyone ever heard of this???

Thanks!
Chris.
 

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Okay, the short back story... Bought the car, drove it 10 days, spun a rod bearing. Cranks was shot as was the head. Found a used motor, supposedly around 45,XXX miles. Replaced the oil pump, water pump, all required gaskets, used the coil and thermostat housing from my original engine, new clutch kit, new pass side cv joint.
So after weeks of work i finished the motor last weekend and started the car with good results, a little rough idle but thats to be expected with a warehouse engine. No CEL's! I had to wait for the shifter cables and the cv axle so I couldn't drive it. Last night I installed the cables and CV joint and took for a spin. Ran great no issues...Until I got home! Crankshaft seal leaking! [rant]
So, got that replaced this morning, re-timed and took the car for several drives and cycles including a couple at WOT.

Now, the current issue... The minor issue is a small hesitation/stumble in first occasionally. Plan to remove the TB and clean the IAC, TPS, and MAF to correct this. The issue I dont understand is the CFC light. So driving under any condition, happened in first under load and sixth coasting and everywhere in between, the ignition will shut off, tack drops out, CEL, CFC, and BATT lights illuminate and the car has no power. The tack reads zero if with the clutch out in sixth at 65 mph...the engine is obviously still turning...
but, heres the weird part...when I push the clutch in...the ignition re-fires, the lights go out, the tach comes up, and the power is back like nothing happened! First time i got out, removed and replaced the fuel cap, seemed fine. The odd thing is it seems more related to time than conditions. in other words, it happens like every six minutes of driving instead of in fifth gear, under no load, when hot, etc...
So...did i miss an evap hose durring the swap? or what? And why doesn't the CFC or CEL stay on?

Anyone ever heard of this???

Thanks!
Chris.
Your lights are coming on because they are "proving out". This is supposed to happen in a normal car when you turn the key on with the engine off. There is nothing wrong with your fuel cap or EVAP system, you need to figure out why the key on power to your cluster is being interrupted. Sounds like you have a wiring harness that is pinched or something plugged into the wrong connector. You have literally hundreds of possible causes and your description of the problem isn't the most specific thing in the world....just sayin. [:D] Is the engine stalling or is the instrument cluster freaking out?

Sounds like the engine is rocking under load and pinching a harness and by depressing the clutch, you remove this pinch and things begin to work properly again. Go back over the EEC harness
 
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