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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I got a light bar and some Hella black Ralle 1000's to install..... I have everything wired up with the exception of the power lead to the switch. I can't decide were to tap into to power the switch. What I want is the following.

Stock fogs with low and high beam, Single wire mod already done and this works fine. I now want the the Hella's available the same as the fogs. They will be controlled with a separate switch. What is the best place to power the switch from that is not powered when key is off?

I am sure I will get many do a search comments. I have and I have simply gotten more more confused the more I search. I really do not want to tap into the high beam headlight lead like the instructions say as I don't want to dig into the wiring loom due to its age.....
 

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Meh.
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How about tapping into the fog light wire in the fuse box where you did the foglight mod?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I thought about that and then had second thoughts as I thought it would be the load circuit and not the fog switch circuit. I am thinking this because of the 12 gauge wire recommendation in the mod write ups it read. Can anyone confirm if it is load or switch circuit?
 

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Meh.
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I can't see either way.

However, either way, the worst that can happen is you'll blow a fuse so it would be worth a shot IMO.
 

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The new lights should be wired with a relay, so you only need enough power for that running through the switch.

Anywhere convenient in the fog light circuit (power on to the fogs) would work for that. You can test the jumper quickly with a test light or meter to see if that location IS "hot" just with the fogs on.
 

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What Sailor said, tap the fog light circuit, run that to a relay, then run power directly from the battery through the relay to the new lights. Do some searching on how the 4x4 guys do their wiring for lights.

Scott
 

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Good, they'll work better for you powered straight off the battery through a relay.

Just get an in-line fuse holder, put a ring terminal on the end & hook it up to the positive clamp. Straight from there to relay & lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well the fog light tap did not work. I put the trigger wire for the new lights on the jumper for the fogs and as soon as we powered the trigger the fuse on the light circuit blew. This I do not understand. It should be totally isolated from the fog circuit by the relay. So I gave up on trying to make it work that way for now.

I simply did what the instructions state which is to tap the high beam trigger. I did not have to tap a wire with a tap splice. I found the trigger fuse, bought a add a circuit at Advance and now have them triggered for high beam only usage.
 

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you have a relay?

fog light power to 85, ground 86. put your switch somewhere on this line (either 85 or 86)
battery power (with fuse) to 30, 87 to Hella's.

in this way, whenever your fogs are on, you can turn the hella on with the additional switch
 

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Norm's posted the info. for what relay pins to hook up, IDK how you were trying to "put power to the trigger wire".

"trigger wire" is a power SOURCE for the relay, which then goes to ground AFTER the relay. (hooked up to the relay coil pins as Norm described)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes there is a relay. It is the supplied wires set from Hella. That is why I am so confused as to why the load fuse blew on the load side of the relay. I ran what was supposed to go to the high beam signal wire to the fog jumper. When done in this configuration this is when the fuse blew on the load side of the relay not the switch side.

After all was done last night it made more sense to have it on high beam only and it works just fine. this way.

If you look at this PDF which is what came with the lights you can see the wire configuration. Page 2 right side with switch. When wire labeled 1 on the switch is plugged into the Fog circuit the fuse between the battery and the relay is what blows. When plugged into the high beam circuit it works just fine....
 
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