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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
do you recommend buying a new hub when replacing the wheel bearing in the front? I have a new bearing in and the wheel still has play in it when the car is jacked up and i move it from 12-6 and 3-9 could it be the hub is bad?? The bearing was in nasty shape when i pulled the old one out.

Also, I have a grinding feel/noise in the brake pedal and i think it is the ABS system and the fact that the hub is bad and the ABS sensor in that wheel is messed up thus making the ABS disengage in that wheel when I brake? can anyone give me advice please. thannks.[loveff] [headbang]
 

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You have to check all the parts that are associated with the bearing, including the hub. There are several critical parts dimensions, that if not correct, can just lead to another bearing failure. The bore diameter of the steering knuckle is critical......the bearing outer race should have a "tight fit" in the bore, the inner races have to have a tight fit on the hub journal and the hub shoulder face (and the journal) cannot have any wear or damage caused by the "spinning" of an inner race of a previously failed bearing. Likewise the outer axle shaft splines and the shoulder that mates with the inner race should be inspected for wear as well. If you've had a bearing failure that allowed for quite a bit of wheel/hub movement, then it's really important to check all these parts (with ABS, the wheel speed sensor itself and the sensor toothed ring on the axle shaft could be damaged). Another sign that one or all of the above parts may be worn or damaged is if you find that the so called wheel bearing retaining nut has backed off and is loose.
 

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do you recommend buying a new hub when replacing the wheel bearing in the front? I have a new bearing in and the wheel still has play in it when the car is jacked up and i move it from 12-6 and 3-9 could it be the hub is bad?? The bearing was in nasty shape when i pulled the old one out.

Also, I have a grinding feel/noise in the brake pedal and i think it is the ABS system and the fact that the hub is bad and the ABS sensor in that wheel is messed up thus making the ABS disengage in that wheel when I brake? can anyone give me advice please. thannks.[loveff] [headbang]
How much did you pay for the bearing and did you do the work your self?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yes i did all the work myself except for taking the hub to the machine shop to have the bearing pressed into the housing. except for that i took it apart and put it back together with the help of my father in law who is very experienced with these things. the hub retainer nut is not loose, it cannot be turned anymore than it already is we tried but like i said there is still play in wheel. I am almost ready to just buy a new hub assembly and put it back together. I paid $75 for the bearing i think
 

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If the hub or the knuckle was bad, wouldn't the machine shop have told you? They're usually very touchy about stuff like that because of the liability issue.

The axle nut- It's one thing to be tight, but it's another to be screwed on far enough to actually bear on the intended pieces. In other words, could the threads on the axle end be rusty or that tempermental laminated axle nut be semi-cross-threaded so that the nut won't turn anymore but it's actually not on as far as it should be?
 
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