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Discussion Starter #1
So my clutch decided to go so I'm looking into upgrading to a stage 2 clutch. I've looked at exedy and SPEC for their clutches and wanted to see what you guys thought would be my better bet.

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Coming from a Master Technician, I would recommend re-thinking upgrading to a staged clutch.

There's only one pro to upgrading a clutch:

To handle increased torque.

(Of course saying "I've got a stage 2 clutch" or liking the feel are often used as excuses to upgrade)

There are several cons though! Let's get into those.

1. It's hard on the engine (not a lot, but it is) it causes the engine to have to catch up/slow down much faster than the stock clutch (not a problem if you rev match)

2. Hard on the trans/axles. The power comes in with more impact, causing extra stress to hardened gears, the spiders in the diff, and the CV axles.

3. Hard on the engine. The crankshaft rides on main bearings, but you may not know about the thrust bearings, which keep the crankshaft properly aligned with the engine (think a sideways bearing). The reason staged clutches can handle more power is easy! Stronger springs. Much stronger springs. A stage 2 clutch can increase power handling by 50-100%. That means you are pushing on your thrust bearings 50-100% harder, causing faster wear which can lead to excessive crankshaft end play (which leads to rods/pistons coming misaligned, chain coming misaligned, but the big one is loss of oil pressure through the main bearings).

4. hard on the clutch master cylinder and throwout bearing. Also means 50-100% more pressure in your clutch lines and on your throwout bearing.

Overall, unless you're building beyond the holding limit of the clutch, I wouldn't "upgrade"

Upgrade isn't really the right word. Cause it's just a different part for a different use.

Just my two cents!

Also, I'd use exedy personally.

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Discussion Starter #3
Fair enough, I really don't want to do this at all but it was more involving service fees and what have you. I'll look into it more though, thanks for the tip!

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To got it! Seems there's not a lot of information on how a higher strength clutch causes extra stress on the car, so just thought I'd share!

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Discussion Starter #5
Yep thanks for the suggestion, I actually changed my mind. I'm gonna just go with a Luk setup. I'm trying to go on a budget so. I was told because of the dual mass flywheel it may actually be cheaper to go with the stage 2 but it's certainly not necessary and still more expensive.

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A d/m is a great setup for the street, the spring makes it so much flexible & easier on the trans/axles......Add a poly dogbone while your there. btw Exedy does offer a oem kit, which swaps out the d/m setup for a solid flywheel, just need to add a throw bearing to it. I run the d/m setup myself as I like how flexible it is, driveways, bumper to bumper traffic, ect. Yea I could possibly be over 200whp w/ a standard setup thou....
 

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I want to change my clutch too, but is a little expensive. I think I have a slipping clutch.. when I accelerate I can feel and ear how the engine over run and the car is not running enough, I need to release a little then I feel how the car really start running, like if something just match and start working well. :(
 

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w/ my magic bag
Joined
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29,326 Posts
I want to change my clutch too, but is a little expensive. I think I have a slipping clutch.. when I accelerate I can feel and ear how the engine over run and the car is not running enough, I need to release a little then I feel how the car really start running, like if something just match and start working well. :(
Really best to stick w/ the oem setup...
 
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