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2013 Ford Focus SE Sedan
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I looked around the forum and can't seem to find a thread that would be helpful. I'm wondering if I missed a step or if anyone has any ideas or suggestions based on experience. I recently performed a major overhaul to the underside of my 2013 SE Sedan with the 5 spd MTX75 Transmission. I used a combination of the shop manual you can get in this forum, Chilton's (not very helpful), instructions that came with new parts if any, and Google. I cross referenced everything and am pretty confident I followed everything to a T including torque specs. It's long, but I'm trying to help diagnose the problem as best as possible. I'm having two (2) problems, one may be easily resolved today, the second I believe is the new release bearing is making noise (but I may be wrong) and the car doesn't start with key but can be push started and runs fine other than possible release bearing noise. Here's what I did:

1. Drained trans fluid.
2. Removed half shafts.
3. Removed starter ("gasket" fell apart upon removal).
4. Removed transmission.
5. Removed old throwout/release bearing assembly (only up to where the brake line enters the "slave").
6. Removed old pressure plate and clutch.
7. Removed flywheel (noticed small leak from crankshaft rear).
8. Drained engine oil.
9. Removed A/C compressor.
10. Removed oil pan (super clean for 98k miles, also I didn't t have whatever tool you need so that you didn't have to drop the oil pan, maybe I was going by the book too much?).
11. Removed crank seal.
12. Cleaned all gasket surfaces on oil pan and block.
13. Installed new crank seal with new bolts torqued correctly in the correct pattern and with the small amounts of gasket sealant (bought from Ford, think it was TA-30?) it called for at the bottom of it.
14. Reinstalled oil pan with gasket sealant also from ford, torqued correctly in the correct pattern.
15. Reinstalled A/C compressor and belt.
16. Installed new DM flywheel from Ford with new bolts from Ford and torqued correctly in correct pattern (takes three passes with different levels of torque) after cleaning the friction surface.
17. Installed new LUK Repset clutch and pressure plate, after cleaning the friction surface of the pressure plate, used the alignment tool and greased the clutch teeth. I reused the old pressure plate bolts as the LUK did not come with new bolts for the pressure plate.
18. Installed new release bearing with new bolts and torqued correctly. Can't remember if I lubricated the bearing that touches the pressure plate "legs" or not but I know I lubricated the back of the release bearing as called for using white lithium grease.
19. Reinstalled the transmission using the old bolts and torqued correctly. Triple checked all of them and quadruple counted to make sure I didn't miss any.
20. Installed a new CarQuest starter (sorry Ford starter was close to $380 in my area, I can't afford that after everything else). This was because of the "gasket" falling apart off the old one. I Couldn't find a replacement one anywhere and figured why not buy new(it wasn't the refurb one I bought either). It also didn't seem to want to sit right and was a HUGE PITA, but I feel like it might be faulty and that's why the car doesn't start.
21. Reconnected as many plugs as I could without getting in the way of bleeding the clutch "slave".
22. Attempted to bleed release bearing using a pressurized bleeding system since I've never had luck doing it with the pedal in past endeavors. Went until new fluid came through and no bubbles.
23. Checked sparkplugs, they seem ok, thinking about new ones and please no discussions on here about what I should get. I know what I want and I'm not telling :p.
24. Checked coolant and brake fluid levels, all good.
25. Refilled engine with oil (it had been over half a day since I reinstalled the oil pan so I'm sure the gasket was setup).
26. Refilled trans with recommended dual clutch oil almost 2 quarts.
27. Checked for leaks, didn't see any.
28. Reconnected remaining electrics, air intake, etc.
29. Pushed clutch pedal and was SUPER soft/spongy.
30. Attempted bleeding using pedal method with an assistant and a tube into a bottle with clean fluid so hopefully no air uptake. Got more bubbles and slightly dirty fluid. Did this until no bubbles and clean fluid. Pedal felt better but still soft/spongy.
31. Attempted to start the car, no sound from starter.
32. Checked battery, battery was good.
33. Attempted bleeding pedal again, thinking maybe the sensor to tell the car it is depressed wasn't picking it up due to softness? Little more bubbles came through the line, but not much. No change in pedal softness (but this may be because I hadn't driven it in 3 days and the pedals were kinda soft compared to my Jeep's anyway, now I'm not sure).
34. Still no start, so we push started it in 5th gear. Started right up and idled fine, no noise. Here's where the trouble starts.
35. Test drove, shifted smooth, every gear worked and no noise until I would start to take my foot OFF of the clutch pedal. It would make a kind of metallic but maybe not, whirring noise. It's hard to hear and hard to explain, I will see if I can upload it to YouTube later today when I'm done with work. It only happens when in gear and your letting off of the pedal. No noise in neutral, no noise when operating the clutch pedal in neutral and it doesn't seem to be making the noise when the clutch is fully engaged and your moving. Only at the sweet spot of the clutch starting to grab and you're in gear (under load). EDIT: It makes the noise while under load and the wheels not moving, so I don't think it's the gears in the transmission and sound seems to be coming from the bell housing, not the "gearbox". I will also see about having it run with wheels off the ground to see if it makes the noise while moving (can't hear over engine and road noise otherwise). Additionally, the clutch seems to be grabbing WAY too soon. Its approx 1/4" to 1/2" of travel between fully disengaged or engaged. Still thinking I need to bleed it, I don't see any leaks from anything, but I'm not ruling it out just yet.

Please any advice would be appreciated. I'm wondering if the clutch pedal needs adjusting or if I have to keep trying to bleed it? I'll be pulling the starter today to see if that's the issue as far as starting goes. Will also double check trans fluid levels to be sure it's where it needs to be. Thanks in advance!

Edit: Starting problem solved. The starter was defective and blew the 30A fuse as well. Now she starts, but tried bleeding clutch slave again and no air bubbles, fluid was cloudy, clutch still grabbing early and making whirring noise when lifting off clutch pedal in any gear other than neutral. Noticed the sound for a fraction of a second when lifting off the pedal in neutral.

EDIT: I took the 30A fuse from the rear defroster according to the Owners Manual. Not immediately above but skip a space. Don't recall the numbers at this time. Also noticed the cruise control will turn on but won't let me set it with either the + or -. The speedo seems correct as long as the radar speed limit sign has been calibrated recently on a road by my apartment. Haven't checked the digital speedo in the test menu yet, but will tomorrow.
 

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Just a thought, did you replace the pilot bearing? It could have been damaged during install, it's pretty easy to stab it with the trans input shaft. The one from my e30 has a little protective washer to keep that from happening, not sure how well protected the Ford one is.
 

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2013 Ford Focus SE Sedan
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Discussion Starter #3
I can't say I'm 100% sure, but the only thing that tells me it probably isn't is that from everything I've read, it would make noise in neutral if that were the case. It only does it when I start to engage the clutch under load (in gear). Doesn't appear to make noise at any other time.
 
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