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Discussion Starter #1
ok since u guys dont respond to my other post maybe ill have better luck with this one

i have a 12 inch w6v2 4ohm
and i have now decided to make a custom box myself for my trunk

my question is what style is best-solid,ported,or whatever other styles their are

and what is the best board to build with

i only know 2 basic steps for building subs
1.if its a sealed box-should be no air leaks
2. boxes should be stuffed-the one i had before i threw insilation in it
 

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Discussion Starter #3
all types
rock,pop,rap,r&b,techno,drum and bass,club

probably club is the biggest catigory for me
both club and drum and bass have the sickist bass
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok so i need to use 3/4 inch mdf = where can i get this

and translated dimensions is

30 and 1/4 inch-wide
16 and 3/4 inch-tall
18 and 5/8 inch-???
12 and 3/4 inch-???

whats d1 and d2

sorry if these are dumb questions
i have never done this before

thanks for all the help to guys


whats d1 and d2
 

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You can get the wood at lowes or home depot...any place like that.

D1-is the thickness at the bottom and D2-is the thickness at the top

So it is a slanted box on the back.
 

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dont believe these chodes lol what car do u have?zx3 or what that maters alot...and u want a ported box go to the jl website and u can get the propper dimensions...it also depends on what hert u want personally my box is 5 cubes and tuned at 42 hertz witch is plenty loud enough for me since i can do a 147.....so there is aot of factors...
what car?
what hert?
what head unit? we need a list for propper help
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks focusboy..

silversally-
i have a 2002 ford focus lx(sedan)
i dont know what hert
 

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you want 1.25CF 18"widex14"highx12.75deep external dimensions with 3/4" mdf. which you can get at home depot.

Enclosure Design
This tutorial concerns itself only with the physical construction of the enclosure and discusses enclosure shape, materials, bracing, strength and sealing.


Enclosure Shape
While it is always a pretty good idea to stay away from perfect cubes, they don't necessarily have to be avoided like The Plague. Due to the very small dimensions and generally low cutoff frequencies used in most mobile subwoofer systems, there is little chance of generating standing waves in the enclosure (standing waves can cause nasty response fluctuations). For a standing wave to exist, the distance between parallel boundaries must be 1/2 the wavelength of the frequency at which the standing wave exists. Considering that sub-bass waves vary from 56.4 feet (20 Hz) to 11.28 feet (100 Hz), the generation of a standing wave is going to be virtually impossible.

Any standing waves that might be generated by upper order harmonics (caused by distortion) in the enclosure can be readily absorbed with the addition of damping material such as polyfill (available at your local cloth store--it is used to stuff pillows and quilts) or they can be broken up with strategically placed bracing within the enclosure.

In short, don't worry too much about shape. Make the box to fit the space you can allot to the enclosure and forget about it--there are more important things to worry about... like bracing.

Bracing and Strength
Of all the things to worry about when constructing an enclosure, this is probably the most critical element. If an enclosure cannot adequately contain the tremendous amounts of pressure generated by today's high-powered subwoofer systems, the results will be marginal bass quality at best or total destruction of the enclosure at worst.

A flexing enclosure is a lossy enclosure. If the panels on your subwoofer enclosure vibrate, you lose output (SPL) and clarity. The solution is two-fold: use only 3/4" or 5/8" thick medium density fiberboard (MDF) and brace (reinforce) the life out of the box. If MDF is not available in your area, the only other real solution (barring exotic materials like sheet PVC) is to use a super high-quality plywood like birch or some other marine-grade plyboard. Avoid using particle board at all costs as it is too flaky (literally), doesn't hold screws well and swells like a sponge when water hits it. In short, particle board comes from the Pit of Hell. Avoid it at all costs.

After the proper materials have been chosen for box construction, the subject of bracing must be addressed. Bracing is very important!



Sealing the Box
Whether you are planning to use a bandpass, ported or sealed box, sealing the edges is very important (isn't everything?). The first step to take in assuring a good tight seal at all joints is to use copious amounts of wood glue. Don't be shy with it--keep a wet rag handy to wipe up the excess. Like bracing, you can never use too much.

There have been some debates on rec.audio.car regarding the use of silicone caulk to seal enclosures since the caustic fumes (acetic acid) released during curing have an appetite for foam surrounds, but with a little understanding of what is going on, this problem can easily be avoided.

Fortunately, most JL Audio subwoofers have a specially treated surround that protects them from hungry acetic acid fumes which is cause #1 not to be overly concerned with using silicone to seal your box. Secondly, the fumes are only released during curing (the time when the caulk goes from a free-flowing gel to an amorphous solid) so all you have to do to prevent damage to the drivers is to wait until the silicone has cured (8-12 hours usually) before dropping the subs in. As one member of the rec.audio.car newsgroup (who shall remain anonymous) can attest, it is not a good idea to stick your head inside the box while the silicone is curing unless you are in search of the world's most obnoxious buzz (don't try this at home kids).

If time is of the essence and you are not (*gasp*) using a JL Audio subwoofer, you might want to look into other sealants that are less caustic.



Quick Guide for Sub Box Construction
Tools Materials

* Screwdriver
* Calculator
* Ruler
* Pensil
* Drill + Bit
* Router or Jigsaw



* 3/4" MDF or Particle-Board (MDF Recommended)
* Coarse-pitched drywall screws
* Wood Glue
* Silicon Caulk
* Terminal Cup
* Speaker Wire


1. Calculate the air space needed for the woofer. Multiply Length x Width x Height then divide by 1728 to calculate the cubic feet needed for the woofer. Refer to the woofer owner's manual for the recommended volume for the type of enclosure that you want to construct.

2. Select the 3/4" material to be used. Choose MDF or Particle-Board.

3. Make sure the boards have flat and even surfaces.

4. Before you draw out the enclosure, don't forget to add 1 1/2" to each dimension ( L x W x H ) to compensate for 3/4" material used for the construction of your box.

5. Before cutting the boards, follow all shop safety rules and wear protective eye wear.

6. Use a table saw with a fence to avoid crooked cuts. This will provide a flat surface for the glue and boards to bond to.

7. If the MDF or Particle Board comes in 4 by 8 foot sheets or bigger, then have someone help you in cutting it.

8. After cutting smooth any rough edges with sandpaper.

9. Test fit the assembly of the box.

10. Pre-drill all screw holes that you will need to assemble the box.

11. Use a coarse-pitched drywall screw for securing the box panels.

12. Before final assembly run a bead of wood glue across all adjoining seams. This will ensure a strong bond for all pieces of the building material to adhere to.

13. Screw and clamp the pieces together.

14. Seal all interior seams with a silicon caulk to prevent any air leaks.

15. Using the template that comes with the woofer, trace the outline on the front of the enclosure.

16. If it is a ported enclosure, then trace the outline of the port on the desired location on the box.

17. Trace the outline of the terminal cup on the rear of the box.



18. Use a router or jigsaw to cut the holes for the driver, port (if needed) and terminal cup.

19. Pre- Drill the 4 holes for the terminal cup using a 1/8" bit or smaller.



20. Check the fit of the terminal cup.

21. Install the gasket on the mounting flange of the terminal cup.



22. Determine how much wire you will need to connect the terminal cup to the woofer and add 6 to 8 inches to allow you to install the woofer.

23. Connect the wires to the terminal cup. Double check the polarity connection.



24. Secure the terminal cup to the rear of the enclosure.



25. Mark each screw hole for the cable clamps.



26. Pre-Drill the screw holes for the cable clamps.



27. Secure the cable clamps using 3/8" screws.



28. Mark each hole for the woofer screws locations.



29. Pre-Drill the mounting holes using a 1/8" bit or smaller.



30. Install a gasket around the mounting flange of the woofer to prevent air leaks around the woofer.



31. Connect the wires from the terminal cup to the woofer using a color-coded wire.



32. Double check the polarity connections on the woofer.

33. Position the woofer into the enclosure.



34. Using wood screws, secure the woofer into the enclosure.



35. Play music for 30 to 40 hours at a reasonable level to allow the woofer suspension to "Break - In." The woofer will perform much better once this process is complete!

36. Then, enjoy your new subwoofer! Happy Bassing!
 

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hate to see people dissapointed in there car audio projects
 

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Discussion Starter #14
WOW!!!
i have to go to meet some fofo if they show

all i saw was massive assistance with my project

i havent had time to read but i will deffinitaly read tomarrow

thanks ahead though
i ow u one
 

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anytime. cant leave a fellow foci stranded. if you have anything to ask after, do i will answer anything you want to know after all its what i do.
 

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what about brads and liquid nails? haha brads are way cheaper than screws and do just as good and look way better...u still need screws just not as many
 

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if it wasn't a sub like a w6. then wood staples and wood glue would be enough. entry level subs wont be able to break the box apart. however a w6 is capable.
 
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