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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just installed a new motorcraft alternator because my battery light went on and i had no charge. So installed a new one and put the meter to it and still no charge. Main power cable seems fine. So what else am i missing here? Thanks

Oh forgot to mention one more thing I bought a remanufactured one first and no charge. Returned it and bought a new one. Whats the chances of that!!

When I disconnect power cable from battery car dies. Now I know that if that happens its a bad ALT. But whats the chance that happening to both ALT I bought.
I did get a good charge reading once when I was moving battery cable. But there is hardly corrosion. Now i get no charge again.
Is there a different way to test. I'm stumped.
 

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My first guess is that the battery cable assembly is messed-up. In-between the Starter and the Alt is a rectangle-bump within the cable; this is the "fuseable link" aka a 175A fuse, -is located near the oil dip stick. Unwrap this fuse and inspect for damage or corrosion. Also, once this fuse is unwrapped, you can CAREFULLY test for voltage at this spot and also perform a "voltage drop" test.
 

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'When I disconnect power cable from battery car dies.'

BETTER hope that fuse is blown, that's the best way to fry a new alternator there is. Number two best way is starting up the new alt to force it to recharge a battery that is severely run down or even bad and the alt paperwork will specifically call both of those out as violations of the warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
'When I disconnect power cable from battery car dies.'

BETTER hope that fuse is blown, that's the best way to fry a new alternator there is. Number two best way is starting up the new alt to force it to recharge a battery that is severely run down or even bad and the alt paperwork will specifically call both of those out as violations of the warranty.
Good to know Thanks AMC49
 

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Discussion Starter #5
IMG_2087.jpg Well the fusible link was shot so this is what I did for replacement.Now everything is all good.Thank you for your replies.
 

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Cover it up or it will happen again. Many cars don't even have them and not needed if you don't do silly stuff like that. I never use them, just one more part to bring you down. If you properly retain and protect that cable you will never have trouble with it but of course I said 'properly'. I make my own to get around the Ford shortcomings of their design.
 

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Ah, the “fuse bottleneck” discussion.
To run “without” -or- “with”.
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True that without the fuse, the Alt. will charge battery better.
& also true, one better be very careful to never do any Alt. Batt. cable no-no’s
without the protection of said fuse…
 

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I’ve used to find that my Alt. liked to act up here’n’there. (Voltage wavering little low.)
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But found a way to temporarily keep any misbehavior at bay.
I turn key to the Run position but don’t start.
Let car’s systems run through full cycles. (Stops chiming & Air-Bag light goes out.)
After that, I start the car. It’s been doing alright for the time being.
But still keeping an eye on it for mechanical safety reasons.
 

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View attachment 261199 Well the fusible link was shot so this is what I did for replacement.Now everything is all good.Thank you for your replies.
Good job, getting her fixed. Case closed, or should be.

... I make my own to get around the Ford shortcomings of their design.
Yeah, I've seen many people here do or say similar things. I also agree that the big fuse is not needed when making your own or modifying this cable. However, the cable terminal end at the alt (on the 2.3) is very uniquely shaped, and near impossible to replicate without the OEM terminal lug. You gotta see the whole surrounding area and setup before fully understanding what I mean.

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Ah, the “fuse bottleneck” discussion.
To run “without” -or- “with”.
.
True that without the fuse, the Alt. will charge battery better...
I disagree with anyone who said that. The fuse does not cause the battery to charge less than normal. However, any bad or corroded connection will.

I’ve used to find that my Alt. liked to act up here’n’there. (Voltage wavering little low.)
Yes, for this particular (PCM firmware) smart-charge system, that has been documented as both odd and is strangely NORMAL behavior. However, this depends on the exact symptoms verses your "wavering little low".

I’ve used to find that my Alt. liked to act up here’n’there. (Voltage wavering little low.)

But found a way to temporarily keep any misbehavior at bay.
I turn key to the Run position but don’t start....
I highly doubt that action does anything to counteract any TRUE charging system faults or any typical anomalies. I am not saying NO,... -just highly doubting it.
 

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'...the cable terminal end at the alt (on the 2.3) is very uniquely shaped, and near impossible to replicate without the OEM terminal lug.'

The Zetec is just as weird at the alt connection, it uses the same type lug, it means nothing. I redo the stand-off there to do what I want. The OEM connector comes in at a certain semi-fixed below and sideways angle to fit the notched plastic stand-off. I remove the stand-off completely as it is super thin sheet steel underneath the plastic (cut it in two for a surprise), the post underneath gets lengthened with a solid extension that carries 100X the current of that flimsy piece. I can rotate the attachment point and cable then anywhere I want. Grease that up while bolting it down and you have the same protection as the plastic cover that encompasses the OEM part. I used to get corrosion there when water leaked into the snap-on cover, now there is none even exposed to the elements. Old school used to hang out in the wind to dry water up quick, the Ford way leaks water into the snap-on covers, then it cannot dry up due to being covered and then time makes it corrode. It's just a really gimmicky way of terminating the end there, and once again another way of getting the cars in for extra unneeded work to sell more parts.

The voltage starts out low because the alts are soft start ones that do not charge at full instantly, it can take up to 60 seconds for one to come to full charge. I used to test them on the cars, you can clearly see when they begin to ramp up charging.
 
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