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Helped my daughters boyfriend get a 2014 Titanium yesterday. $18,563 out the door. Msrp $25,165, $4,500 in total rebates, $589 processing. Got $2,500 more in rebates going with Ford financing instead of outside money. He's talking to Navy Federal on a refi @ 1.99 or less, plus $250 bonus for bringing the loan to them. No prepayment penalty on the Ford loan. I think we got a great deal.
 

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Helped my daughters boyfriend get a 2014 Titanium yesterday. $18,563 out the door. Msrp $25,165, $4,500 in total rebates, $589 processing. Got $2,500 more in rebates going with Ford financing instead of outside money. I think we got a great deal.
That is an understatement.
You got an outstanding deal.
 

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Yeah you got a super good deal, they ate into there holdback to sell that car. Most dealers won't eat into there holdback... Curious what the invoice price was?
 

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Definitely a great deal. You beat me just a little percentage off wise, although here in Jersey we have to pay four years of registration up front so I might have caught you without that, (unless you do too) LOL - We bought the SE Hatchback day after New Years. MSRP $20,545 and we were out the door for $15,493.

Our rebates were structured a bit different but they also totaled $4500. We're doing the same refi with Navy credit.
 

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Definitely a great deal. You beat me just a little percentage off wise, although here in Jersey we have to pay four years of registration up front so I might have caught you without that, (unless you do too) LOL - We bought the SE Hatchback day after New Years. MSRP $20,545 and we were out the door for $15,493.

Our rebates were structured a bit different but they also totaled $4500. We're doing the same refi with Navy credit.
Hah, I beat you by a bit-- by a bit over $2k on the price, but with CA tax, you end up giving it all back.
 

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Hah, I beat you by a bit-- by a bit over $2k on the price, but with CA tax, you end up giving it all back.
Just to be clear, an "out the door"price includes all taxes, fees and everything. The cost of the actual car was significantly less.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Last several cars I've purchased, I contacted the sales mgr directly instead of going through the regular sales force. (Sorry if any of you are sales folks.) Found I can cut through the chase much quicker & get to the bottom line. I always ask for the bottom price out the door, since that's all that matters to me. Usually try & dicker a bit more if possible. Mgr mentioned she was giving the holdback up to move the car. When we went to pick it up, the morning mgr spoke with us for a few min & said he was surprised she let it go for that price. Said they were losing at that price. I always figure they wouldn't really sell at a loss. It's going to be made up somewhere. End up yr bonus for clearing out inventory, whatever. I always wait until almost the end of the month /year when contacting them. Find they're more willing to dicker to move one more unit before months end, & hit their quota numbers.
Daughters boyfriend is planning on a refi with Navy Federal too. Much better rate.
 

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Might be interested in a '14 hatchback 6 spd manual. Don't need many bells and whistles. Cruise and bluetooth are my only real need/wants.

Does it help if I can go in there with a checkbook to pay cash?
 

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Might be interested in a '14 hatchback 6 spd manual. Don't need many bells and whistles. Cruise and bluetooth are my only real need/wants.

Does it help if I can go in there with a checkbook to pay cash?
Not in this case, Ford Credit is giving cash off the price of the car if you use their financing. Over $1500 in some cases. It is wise to either be able to pay cash or get your own financing beforehand so you can pay off that loan--there's no prepayment penalty. Navy Federal Credit Union has great rates but you have to be connected. PenFed rates are pretty good too and you can join even if you're not connected to the military, with a $15 donation.

The best way to get a great price is email the Internet manager or general sales manager of every dealership within 50 or 100 miles of you and ask for their bottom line out the door price on the model you want. Doesn't matter if you have no intention of ever driving that far--they don't need to know that. You want the out the door price because sometimes they add in extra fees to make up for a lower car price.

When comparing, you have to take into consideration there will be differences in options--they'll be quoting specific cars sitting on their lots. You'd also do well to check out their inventory pages to see if they have a car close to your specs. Then shop the lowest offer to the higher ones until everyone stops going lower. You can also complain that their car doesn't have this or that, like the winter package, to see if they'll drop a little more to compensate. Then u decide who has the best car, best price, and is close enough that you don't mind going there.

Helps to say you're buying a car by X date.
 

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The auto industry has spent the last twenty years masquerading profit as dealer cost. I laughed when our finance guy said he was shocked we had another offer like theirs since they were losing money selling the car more than $1000 under invoice. Invoice and holdback are completely fictional numbers based on making people feel like they're getting a good deal. Really the only way you know you're getting a good deal is to pit dealerships against each other.

Anyone interested in buying a car would do well to read this US today article.

https://www.fightingchance.com/auto_financing.php


"Mgr mentioned she was giving the holdback up to move the car. When we went to pick it up, the morning mgr spoke with us for a few min & said he was surprised she let it go for that price. Said they were losing at that price. I always figure they wouldn't really sell at a loss. It's going to be made up somewhere. End up yr bonus for clearing out inventory, whatever. I always wait until almost the end of the month /year when contacting them. Find they're more willing to dicker to move one more unit before months end, & hit their quota numbers.
Daughters boyfriend is planning on a refi with Navy Federal too. Much better rate."
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
In response to pete c
In my case, yes & no. Yes, because the sales mgr knew we were serious & ready to buy, not just kicking tires. No, because Ford had big additional rebate money IF we used Ford Motor financing. We would have lost about $2,000 by paying cash. Re-fi is always an option, & will be used in this case.
 
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