[akadeebroad5]

So I have a zetec with the stock headers. I'm afraid if I take the stock headers off I'd bust a rusted bolt in the head and all trouble would start. Would love to get that extra 15 to 20 hp with the svt headers and exhaust but scared about these rusty stock headers. Any suggestions?

 

[zetecDon]

Just take your time removing it. Those bolts are tougher than you think they are. Plus spraying it generously with penetrating oil 24-48 hours before removing them does wonders as well. If you need any help with this, just give me a holler.

 

[sleepyboy]

Start soaking them in some sort of penetrating lubricant like WD-40 or PD blaster (I like PB blaster) or something similar, everyone has their pick or which one. Just give them a squirt every day for like a week or so before you start if they are really bad. That will give more than ample time for it to do it's thing.

 

[felixthecat]

Just take your time removing it. Those bolts are tougher than you think they are. Plus spraying it generously with penetrating oil 24-48 hours before removing them does wonders as well. If you need any help with this, just give me a holler.

This^^^^^^^^^^

Start soaking them in some sort of penetrating lubricant like WD-40 or PD blaster (I like PB blaster) or something similar, everyone has their pick or which one. Just give them a squirt every day for like a week or so before you start if they are really bad. That will give more than ample time for it to do it's thing.

This^^^^^^^^^^

 

[tallted]

I'm all about PB blaster. Even if you break the head off the bolt, just an excuse to buy some nee tools

 

[CotyM]

WD-40 sucks, get PB blaster over it any day! And if you can find it get KANO, it's an industrial grade penetrating oil. I actually used to just get it from work, because my boss would order cases of it and let me have a few cans. It's in a small orange can, works like a charm, it blasts pb blaster out of the ocean, but has a strong oder that you don't really want to smell, probably isn't healthy to use in a confined space either.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

But yeah, I was actually able to take my whole exhaust apart even though I thought it was completely [][][][][][][][][][][][]. Just take your time with it.

 

[iminhell]

Motorcraft® Penetrating and Lock Lubricant

Blows away most all the competition and doesn't cost that much more.

For me, in order of working well:
Ford
k&W Knock'er Loose
Liquid Wrench

PS has never worked worth a shit for me. And anything I have to leave sit for days isn't something I'd say works any better than any oil. My criteria is 10 minute sit time. I don't have time to wait.

 

[slow_solo_focus]

You might want to invest a few bucks in those crow feet tools(iirc that's the name). Mine were $15 at merles.



Males it a lot easier to reach around in there.

 

[felixthecat]

You might want to invest a few bucks in those crow feet tools(iirc that's the name). Mine were $15 at merles.



Males it a lot easier to reach around in there.

I've used 4 (different offsets) open end wrench's before on my Hooker header super comp's.

 

[Magus2727]

if they are going to be stubborn you can also work with the car warm (obviously not hot) but a warm block/head/header will also help if they are that bad.

 

[pasta]

Check out bel ray 6/1

 

[GhostTribute]

If you are worried about breaking any of the exhaust studs or nuts you could buy new ones before you start the job. That way you can ensure that they go back together nice and easy. I bought a set from a local fastener for a few bucks. they aren't anything fancy.

M8 Exhaust studs and nuts; Dorman M8 These are M8x1.25 x 40mm
Or a set of M8x1.25 x 25mm bolts

As far as penetrating oil goes, we use KB-88 at our industrial maintenance shop. It is industrial strength and you do not have to wait 24/48 hours. Maybe 10-20 minutes tops. We used to use Kano Kroil but it is really harsh on the body, inside and out. if you can get your hands on ether they will work, just make sure you use any sort of penetrating spray in a well ventilated area.