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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey fellas....Just put a clutch in the focus and I figured I had better get the alignment checked and set. front end was right where it needed to be and required no adjustments, however I was given a copy of the measurements and the rear camber is way off in the right rear. So I checked the wheel and I cannot feel any play so I am guessing that the upper control arm has been bent out of shape? Now I am torn....I have seen the posts for the SPC camber bolt kit and I have also found the adjustable rear upper control arm. Now the camber is out -2.19 degrees.....would the bolt kit be able to compensate and bring the tire back into its proper stance? the bolt kit says its range is -1.0 degrees to +1.0 degrees. Logical thinking would tell me the bolt kit wouldn't work so would the adjustable upper arm be the way to go? [???:)] thanks to all
 

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Bolt could reduce the RT camber to match the left, you aren't aiming for zero there.

Between 1&2* is pretty typical, not as bad as it looks because of the "red".

Rear toe is nice & even, the range they show as allowable is too high there. Target is closer to .10* and the .36 they show as allowable is too much.
 

· C2H5OH
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The rear bolts will do +/- 1* --> http://www.spcalignment.com/compone...=Focus&year=2000 - 2010&from=USAFrom&to=USATo

So yes, the bolt kit will bring rear camber into a better range for you.
You can get to about -1.25* and the same on the other side also.


The benefit to the camber arms is that you'll also get new bushings, which are probably worn anyways.



BTW, to correct that front camber you'll have to loosen the subfram and slide it, if possible.
 

· w/ my magic bag
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The rear bolts will do +/- 1* --> http://www.spcalignment.com/compone...=Focus&year=2000 - 2010&from=USAFrom&to=USATo

So yes, the bolt kit will bring rear camber into a better range for you.
You can get to about -1.25* and the same on the other side also.


The benefit to the camber arms is that you'll also get new bushings, which are probably worn anyways.



BTW, to correct that front camber you'll have to loosen the subfram and slide it, if possible.
This^^^^^^ Since you had the cradle off. Its not bad thou. I would of set the rear toe at .010 per side & the front toe at zero.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
all good info to know, however like what was said up above, new bushings probably not a bad idea. plus, if i were to get the bolt kit only to find out that the upper arm is bent once taken off, then the bolt kit is pointless. Maybe just a better idea to get a new adjustable arm and be done with it.
 

· w/ my magic bag
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all good info to know, however like what was said up above, new bushings probably not a bad idea. plus, if i were to get the bolt kit only to find out that the upper arm is bent once taken off, then the bolt kit is pointless. Maybe just a better idea to get a new adjustable arm and be done with it.
Yea, you could get a pr of adjustable arms. Really hard to bent the oem arms unless you hit a curb or something.
 

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Buy a pair of adjustable arms; set the rear camber at -.5; toe .10 rear, with zero for front. You'll save a lot of tire wear this way and still have great handling and maybe slightly improved fuel economy. (1-2% is possible).
 
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