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Discussion Starter #1
OK All, I am in need of expertise. My dad just won $8000 (CDN) through that GM wish and win thing.[cheers] He ended up buying a 2007 Chevy Cobalt SS (Non SC-173hp). I can't have my dad having a faster car than me.[?|] I need a good list of the best bang for buck mods. I'll list what I have below:

Installed:

Weapon R SRI
Brembo Cross Drilled Rotors
EBC Greenstuff Pads

To Be Installed:

Ford Racing 9mm Wires
Champion Double Platinum Plugs

So you know, both cars are Auto. I'm wondering how doable this is since hes 40hp ahead of me. I'll get FI in a year or two, no $$ for that now.[mecry]
 

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Just get the rest of the bolt-ons, cams, a tune, and throw a light shot of nitrous on there and you'll have no problem at all. [thumb]
 

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powerwors....and ur dad will cry behind in his lil SS
 

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Get The Hammer!
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For the money, nitrous would put you far ahead with a 75 shot. Its also not that labor intensive to hook up. you might be able to do it with a race header, stage 2 or 3 cams and gears, flex back and a tune or good chip. The simplest way would be sabotage. J/K. Theres nothing like a little completion to get you moving.
 

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^^i donno....naawwz is so like not good for u car
 

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my car breaks!
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For the money, nitrous would put you far ahead with a 75 shot. Its also not that labor intensive to hook up. you might be able to do it with a race header, stage 2 or 3 cams and gears, flex back and a tune or good chip. The simplest way would be sabotage. J/K. Theres nothing like a little completion to get you moving.

the problem is, he can't shoot a 75 shot of nitrous into his engine safely either, and not to mention after that 75 shot, at best he's about 30hp over his dad's hp and nitrous can only last for 10 seconds max because if it's longer than that the silonoids will freeze open. if the silonoid freezes open then your 10 second 75hp wet shot of n2o turns into a constant 45hp dry shot which means his engine WILL blow up ;)

and like i said he can't shoot 75hp of nox into his engine safely, most without a tune is 50 and that's pushing it.

here's a few things to think about:
The colbalt is about 500lbs heavier, so that removes about 15 - 20 hp advantage

the colbalt has a lower revving engine, so if that horse power is a 5500rpm then that's great... IF you get it to 5500 RPM. where as the focus WILL get to it's 5500 RPM

horse power like that is calculated at the crank, the focus is 130 at the crank the colbalt is 170 at the crank, but the drivetrain is where the difference is made. the focus has a much better drivetrain with much less loss

All in all i'd say you have to get your 109 at the wheels up to about 130 - 145 at the wheels and your dad's colbalt can't touch you.

To achieve 130 - 145 at the wheels, you need a complete exhaust with no cat, if possible in your state, or a super hi-flow cat at least. look in the for sale section of the forums, you can find something there.

that will add about 15 hp atleast

instead of platinum plugs, get motorcraft coppers one step colder gapped at 60, that will add about 1 - 2 hp

do an oil change with royal purple and a napa gold filter, that will add about 2 hp

see.. now we're up to about 125 - 130 whp

no, loose so weight out of your car! take out the spare and back seat (if possible) that will save you almost 100lbs! which brings the HP requirement down to about 125 whp to keep up with the 170hp cobalt

farther in, you can get a lighter fly wheel! there's a general calculation that says that every pound shaved off the flywheel will make 3hp at the wheels.

also you can get bigger lighter wheels! making a mass rotate is one the hardest things to do mechanically, so if the mass is lighter it's easier to turn (thats why a lighter flywheel means more power, because it's less work)

after all said and done (minus wheels and fly wheel) you'd probably spend $500 and work on your car for 6 hours, but you'll have a much faster car!

and if all else fails you can slash his tires!
 

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Full Exhaust (Header,flex,catback) then spray the bitch. Even on a 50 shot that should get you up to around 170-180. If you can afford it, take it to get dyno tuned and have them step it up to a 75 shot (take all necessary precautions of course) Put it on a WOT switch, A window switch, and a fuel pressure safety switch and you should be good. with a 75 shot you could be seeing up to 200 at the wheels, more than enough to put that cobalt to shame. Maybe even some stock V8's[strongman]
 

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i don't think you have to do much.... the sedan weighs in at 3200lbs....wtf even the coupe weighs 2900 lbs... thats still 600 lbs more then my zx3.

Chevrolet said:
Curb weight, estimated (lbs.) coupe 2,991, sedan 3,216
specs
 

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EvenDeathCan'tStopMe
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Wow... COngrats to your Dad... that's pretty cool!

Just turbo it... hahahahha.
 

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where's a good place to order lighter fly wheel?


p.s. with my set up i beat stock V6 VW Passat (triptronic +/-), Integras

p.s.p.s. i tried those regular cobalts and they are slow.....and i tried SS supercharged and daaaamn.......next one to try is SRT-4
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the input guys. I don't think I'll be spraying it, too much heat around here for that, plus this is my DD. I don't have another car if I blow this one up! ;-). I think this summer I will be doing 17" Rims and Summer tires, rear brakes, strut bar, TB, and maybe an MBRP exhaust if the $$ becomes available
 

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MyCarBreaksAlot
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It's ATX, so forget the flywheel. I'd really advise against any power adder at the moment since our autos are way weak. If you beef up the trans you can do that, but until then I'd say stick with bolt ons. Unfortunately, you'll probably be very loud after that unless you drop a ton of money on a high flow cat and resonated exhaust setup.
 
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