Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,299 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well my warrenty is coming up in 10k miles, so i am going to start a build. I am buying a 2.3l engine (new) and going from there. I would like to find a mtx75 transmission that will bolt up to that as well. So if any of you could help me with that it would be appriciated. But here is where i come to ask for opinions. First everyone says breath in, breath out. This is what i have lined up so far. Opinions to changed are very welcomed here.

Cosworth Cai- it seems to be a little larger in diameter than the rest, but it is also about 150 more than the marcy or focus sport. Is it worth it in a n/a build that i am wanting to make over 200hp.

Cosworth throttle body- this isnt on the list of the first mods to buy, but it is on the second one. i know that the focus central which are 65mm had quality control issues. will the 67mm be bennifitial in the end and worth the 350dollars.

Cosworth intake mani- you do lose peak torque, but you gain an overall flat torque curve. is this the best intake mani and is it worth the 700$.

Cosworth headers- seem to have the largest primaries. the cost around 400$, and overall are the a better header than draxas or f2.

Cosworth flex- to go along with the headers

Cosworth 2.5 race exhaust- i know there are other 2.5 inch exhaust out there for way cheaper, but i want it to sound good, and perform well. this area is always open for opinions.

vf rear mount- this isnt open for discussion as it will need this to help keep down the motor movement. but are the other mounts needed as well.

i would also like to know what the best piston, rods, valves, valve springs, cams, and cam gears are.

i
i know it sounds like i am cosworth crazy, but i do understand that there are other products out there that perform just as well, but dont have the name. however i want to build this car to take the abuse i want to throw at it, and always be ready to strap a turbo on to this when i get bored with the n/a setup. opinions are welcome, but please keep the bashing out of this thread.

thanks for the help
-archie


so i would like to add the eagle rods to the list of mods. they run about 400 dollars, or is there a better rod out there for the money.

also if i add the 9.0:1 pistons, will it be okay to run crane stage ii cams, or owuld it better if i went with a higher compression piston.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,307 Posts
that sounds slick as hell post pics when you do this bro. i dont know all that much about doing this or i would do the same.
 

·
Sückn' n Blown
Joined
·
7,747 Posts
MM is re-thinking doing a batch of intake manifolds or 2.75" exhausts, but nothing is confirmed.

If you are going cams and compression, you need an intake manifold. Otherwise, you won't get the full benefits.

I'm building with Eagle rods, Supertech 11.6:1 pistons, and Crane stage II cams. Cossie header and intake mani as well.

If you are planning a turbo in the future, than 11.6:1 won't be for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,299 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
how easy would it be to change the compression later down the road, would it be a matter of just new pistons ?

can someone please explain compression and the effects. i know for a fi setup you want a low compression, but for now i am going completely n/a.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
pistons would be the easiest way to lower the compression yes. or you could switch to a head with a larger combustion chamber, but i dont know if this is even an option on a duratec or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
488 Posts
With the money your about to spend do what a friend and i are doing. buy yourself and old 92-95 honda hatch and swap in the rsx-r motor and boost it.
 

·
Sückn' n Blown
Joined
·
7,747 Posts
archie said:
how easy would it be to change the compression later down the road, would it be a matter of just new pistons ?

can someone please explain compression and the effects. i know for a fi setup you want a low compression, but for now i am going completely n/a.
Easy? Not very. You more or less have to remove the engine just so you can remove the pistons. (You could do it with the crank still in place, but to remove the head, you have to remove the passenger motor mount while supporting the engine from below, where you are working)

The reason you want a lower compression ratio for FI is to allow for more psi before you start detonating. The higher compression will force you to run a lower psi. However, if you go to low to allow for high amounts of boost, your off-boost power would be really low.

Things to also consider about going from NA to FI is cam selection. Along with compression, agressive cams are needed on a NA engine to make power. That usually means large overlap on the cam lobes. FI engines don't like much overlap, as it can bleed off pressure. Going from a high HP NA engine to a high HP FI engine will require those cams to be changed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,299 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
so what is a good compression to run now, that wont require too much changing if i decide to boost it in a couple years.
 

·
Sückn' n Blown
Joined
·
7,747 Posts
Probably stock compression. Won't be wowzer NA power, and won't be giggity giggity FI power either.
 

·
Sückn' n Blown
Joined
·
7,747 Posts
Won't bolt on without spending major money on making an adapter plate and working out all the issues. Best to find a 5-speed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,299 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
an mtx75 will bolt right, but i am looking into getting a lentech (sp?) tranny right now.

but far as compression goes, i am going to go full n/a now and i will worry about changing it if i decide to later on. so i am looking at either a 9.0:1 or a 11.6:1. i am leaning more toward the 9.0:1 and looking to get a set of stage 2 cams from either crane or crower.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
<<<so i am looking at either a 9.0:1 or a 11.6:1. i am leaning more toward the 9.0:1 and looking to get a set of stage 2 cams from either crane or crower.>>>



if your really looking to go full n/a for now the 11.6:1 would be alot better. im not sure if they are still avalable, but the stroker kits from focus power would be nice too... if I were going full n/a, i would get the 2.5 kit with high comp pistons, and if full FI, then go for the Big bore kit 2.4 I think. the bigger increase in bore and not such a big increase in stroke as the 2.5 kit is perfect for FI (as long as they come in a lower comp ratio)
at least I think I remember reasing something like this in one of my books. it has something to do with the longer stroke creating a better pressure drop to increase cylender filling on the intake stroke on a higher rpm N/A motor. And the bigger bore and shorter stroke promote the mixing of air/fule and cylender filling in a boosted application. i could be wrong though. either way displacement = torque which = HP which = fast
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top