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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I want to start by saying I'm not a newb. But my question is going to sound like one. When I press the gas on my zx3 it sputters. But I don't think it is your average fuel/air/spark problem. I think it is my voltage regulator cause I just put a new alternator in. And this is a typical symptom of the last few Orielly reman alternators. But I just wanted to run it by you guys and get some input.
Symptoms:

If I press the pedal past about half way down the car starts to shutter. The weird part is it doesn't matter what rpm range or what speed. Doesn't matter what gear as long as I don't move past half or the quarter pedal I can red line the car.(But I don't). When it sputters the Speedo wigs or completely, but no other gauges malfunction, the tac works perfectly. And the speakers start popping. So it is for sure electrical. My question is, is there any way my tps or anything else could be causing this. The fact that pedal position is affecting it is bothersome.
 

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Altered the title for you.

I'd wonder about wire loom movement as the engine moves from acceleration (such as at the coil connector wiring) but the speedo involvement makes the guessing more interesting...

Could a loom that attaches to the VSS be involved?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The other thing is that the rpm range doesn't affect anything. If it were a vibration at a given rpm range I would suspect a loose wire or something. But that just doesn't seem right. Not saying it isn't. Just offering my reasoning for my diagnosis
 

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The odo test function would allow watching voltage while driving, sometimes easier than hooking up a meter for the same purpose when you suspect that issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I should plug my ultra gauge in. I've been so busy I just thought I should go ahead post this up see of anyone experienced anything like this.the last time my voltage regulator went out. It would crank and crank, but it would only sputter like it is it of time. Changed the alternator and it fired right over. So weird.
 

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You mean of course changed the alt AND recharged the battery, ain't no way on earth changing alt alone is going to instantly recharge a run down to dead battery from bad alt. Takes 8 hrs. on these according to Ford and why you don't use the alt to recharge battery, 9 times out of 10 you kill the new alt, the regulator won't take it. The high output is only intended to be momentary, not longterm. Read the alt paperwork and it will tell you that.

Now, if that fits you, well there you go..............self induced damage. I found at the parts store that by far most of the car problems were from that. The general public has a way to go before it steps into the 21st century. In fact, the further ahead car tech gets, the further behind the public is in terms of understanding how to best fix this stuff. We are relying way too much on older knowledge that no longer applies, most of the old guys who pass this stuff on have not learned the newer stuff. They populate the conventional wisdom with all kinds of silly ideas that just cause people a lot more trouble. I heard so much stuff that didn't work at the parts store while there I just gritted my teeth and shut up and waited for customer to come back with broken or not broken part that the 'family mechanic' (usually with claims of factory training, yeah, RIGHT!) had deduced was a bad part. Test it at the store and nothing wrong with it at all. I began to minimize shop loss by simply reboxing 'bad' parts only to see the next guy buy them and no trouble with them at all, imagine that..........when you see customers come back to get their 3rd or 4th same part then you realize something is broken there, but it's NOT the car or the new part.

In my experience the cars will run with no charging at all all the way down to the end of the battery, they will begin to misfire ignition only maybe 2-3 minutes before they all out die from no power to anything at all. Yet, an alt with one dead diode can run with substandard charging (around 13.6-13.8 volts) for up to a couple weeks+ perfectly with no troubles at all as long as the battery was hot at the start of that. BTDT. So, having said that, the test...........charge battery up FULLY and pass a load test and try running it then, if you still have the stutter then, it is NOT alt/regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well thanks for there lengthy right up.but the alternator was changed on our way to focus fest. Alternator never stopped making 12 volts. Battery was tested and still fully charged. With proper amp hour rating and everything. Battery light cane on in front of the parts store almost. And some of their alternators they tried to give me had bad voltage regulators on the shelf. I always make then check the new ones on their machine first.
 

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An alt making only 12 volts is DEAD, one either gets that or they don't. Regardless of what you think no way was that battery up fully if alt only making 12 volts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What I really appreciate about your posts is the condescension you weave throughout the posts. I'm actual a 12/24v technician by trade. I work with high output eclectic motors and solid state electronics. But I'm sure you knew that. I'm all clear on how the charging system on my car works.
 

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Alt Pigtail????
 

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Good for you, I used to work on big 440 volt press drives and believe me, there is a difference in the small details. You are showing you know little about your line of work. You should easily know in that line of work that a full battery would run correctly with no alt output at all and no 'stutter', it's basic electrical training. You also should already know that automotive battery is over 12 volts and absolutely necessary to have that last little bit, when they hit 12 even they are dead. In fact before that, these will show problems at around 12.3 or less.

Condescending? Maybe, but I know all that and no formal training in it at all. People like you who spout useless waste of inexact words are why no one can get their stuff fixed correctly. The devil is in the details. And so is the cure. And when you find yourself spending more time with the car owner fixing things than with the car you learn to be condescending, it gets very tiring saving them all to land lightly on their feet when they've jumped out of the airplane with no parachute. Look at my signature..............

You say at top that you 'think' it is the VR but nowhere do you show any evidence of the most basic beginning electrical check, a voltage read to check if alt VR is even working. Give me a break..............I would NOT want you working on my 24 volt stuff.

Sorry, and no insult intended, but when you box yourself in to where that is all that is possible, well, ....................................you see the problem.
 

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Easy now, the only part that's important there IMHO is that IF voltage is suspect as a cause some tests for that are needed to see if it's really a possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Easy now, the only part that's important there IMHO is that IF voltage is suspect as a cause some tests for that are needed to see if it's really a possibility.
Yeah. I've just been working so much I haven't had any time to work on it. Should get to it this afternoon. I talked to O'Reilly and they are going to upgrade for free because I've gone through so many. Even the manager said their remans are pretty junky. So I think I'll just get the free upgrade, and have them test it while it's up there. If I still have the problem when I get the brand new unit in I'll Start taking voltage readings and go from there to see what it's causing it. When I have out of the norm problems I like to post then and just see of anyone had already dealt with a similar issue..
 

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FYI, even the 'best of the best' O'Reilly can get are suspect, I took them apart to find not even heavy duty regulators in them. Beware..............about 20-30% of their new product would not pass bench testing before going out the door. Abysmal, you could commonly see field wires that were grounded on case and things of that sort. These alts will spit normal OTC non HD regulators out in a minute. I learned to use nothing but HD parts in mine and all problems gone then. F601HD Transpos IIRC..................the F601 is junk. I saved mine though to gut them for the brushes to put in worn out HD parts. I've had the non HD go bad in less than five minutes, or even go bad on the tester testing the unit after rebuild. The QC there is awful.

Start car and wait one minute at idle and then measure volts at battery, you need at least 14.0 or higher for alt to be right. Battery alone with engine off, let it sit at least 4 hr. to disperse surface charge and 12.3 to 12.8 volt. Higher number is better.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
okay so went ahead and changed the alternator tonight. I was getting low 13v reading and they were fluctuating more than I usually expect to see. now I'm getting consistent 14.5-14.8v. however bad news is problem didn't go away. so the VR isn't the culprit. however I feel better having that unit off the car. so I'm going to check teh coil for cracks. and inspect the VSS. any thoughts(that don't require insults)?
 

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Back to the usual suspects, starting with checking the coil sounds good.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It was the coil. I pulled it off today and it $$$ cracked up on the bottom. Replaced it and she runs smooth. Good thing is the alternator it's sorted and the coil is replaced. And I spent about two hours with some degreaser and a nylon brush while I had all the parts out. So my OCD is working better too. I have a cleaner engine bay
 

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OK, two problems in a Month is enough for now.

You don't have to continue going down the list of common failures for us.

Alternator on the way to Focus Fest started it off, then the proof that replacements can also be trouble - another std. issue.

Now it's the cracked coil making it miss as you rev. it up (glad it was a "simple" fix BTW).

Car's supposed to be Happy now with the body work & nice paint job, not demanding that mechanical bits get their fixes as well!

Take care, hope that's the end of it for a LONG while.

Cheers

Roger
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I didn't intend to put on a workshop! Truthfully she has been a trouble free car. But it's been sitting for three years or so. I'm due for a handful of issues
 
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