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Discussion Starter #1
Today I tried to tackle my rear suspension to svt setup
On the passenger side lower shock mount bolt snapped in the nut and there’s a little numb sticking out on the outer side but it wasn’t turning

and the control arm to knuckle is loose almost all the way but somehow it got stuck and just spins won’t go in or out with the impact gun


And the nuts are welded on to the sides I think it would be best if I somehow broke or cut the welds on these nuts to remove the stuck bolts and replace all the hardware

Anyone got any ideas
The driver side I used my friends stronger impact gun and everything came off in 20 and put that side back together but the passenger side is being a POS
 

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Today I tried to tackle my rear suspension to svt setup
On the passenger side lower shock mount bolt snapped in the nut and there’s a little numb sticking out on the outer side but it wasn’t turning

and the control arm to knuckle is loose almost all the way but somehow it got stuck and just spins won’t go in or out with the impact gun


And the nuts are welded on to the sides I think it would be best if I somehow broke or cut the welds on these nuts to remove the stuck bolts and replace all the hardware

Anyone got any ideas
The driver side I used my friends stronger impact gun and everything came off in 20 and put that side back together but the passenger side is being a POS
I did this just last week same thing happened to me, The reason its spinning like that is because the bolt rusted to the bushing, and when you spin the bolt you effectively tear the bushing thats in there to shreds and then its basically stuck. I broke 3 sockets 2 adapters and one torque wrench in my attempts to get those bolts out. What a PITA

After fiddling with that crud for half a day i eventually just cut everything out with a sawzall (and a bunch of metal specific blades), including the nuts that were welded to the frame. You'll have alot of exposed metal when youre finished, but its nothing a little POR 15 cant fix.

If you want you can buy polyeurethane bushings, but then you gotta know how to press them into the lower control arm. They are about just as expensive as a brand spankin new lower control arm though.

I bought new control arms for 130 a piece and grade 8 bolts and nuts from my local tractor supply shop for 2.50 a pop. You can buy the bolts from ford but i think they're way too expensive for a bolt. I used a jack to push the lower control arms up back into place.

If you have to get any more rusted bolts off in the future, Try this method first and if it fails only then move to cutting the bolts out. Get yourself a propane or acetylene blow torch and heat up the nut and the area surrounding the bolt (NOT THE BOLT), give the area around the bolt a couple taps with the hammer to loosen stuff up, and then squirt the threads of the bolt and the nut with a gratuitous amount of PB blaster. This method worked well for me.

And any new bolts you put back in there make sure you give em a real good coating of anti-seize, to prevent anything like this from happening again lol
 

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Discussion Starter #3
how welded on are thoes nuts could i possibly cut mabee 1 side and get at it with a crowbar and a hammer and pop it off or cut all the way through

and the drivewr side came over without the torch the passanger side i used it till i broke the bolt in the lower shock mount
 

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how welded on are thoes nuts could i possibly cut mabee 1 side and get at it with a crowbar and a hammer and pop it off or cut all the way through

and the drivewr side came over without the torch the passanger side i used it till i broke the bolt in the lower shock mount
On mine, there on one side of the nut, there was a bit of an unwelded space between the bottom of the nut and the surface of the frame. It was just enough to sneak a sawzall blade in there and to start to go to town.

The nuts were more than just tac welded on there (or if they were it was pretty sloppy) because on both nuts around 50-60 percent of the nut had been welded to the frame, might be too strong to just pop off with a hammer. But who knows every car is different and it might be worth a try if you don't have a sawzall handy. If prying doesn't work, and you dont want to spend the money on a sawzall, maybe you can hand saw it 2/3rds of the way through and try prying it off then. When i did it i didn't even sawzall all the way through, i did it 3/4ths of the way and pried it off with a giant screwdriver and a hammer.

Get underneath there and take a look, might have to jack it up pretty high to fit all the tools and create an angle that will give you enough leverage.

Also, if you plan on taking the lower control arms completely off and just putting in new ones, the other bolts towards the center of the car are just as tough to get out unfortunately. [xx(] But they are the same length width and thread as the other lower control arm bolts in case those break too and you need to buy new ones.

Whats you're new setup gonna be? [race]
 

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Discussion Starter #7
im gettin [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)] right now bc like u said the bolt is rusted to the bushing and the bushing is keeping the bolt from moving i cut off the nut at the end and on the other side where the bolt is stuck it accually pushed out the metal from the knuckel and flared it out the other side is flat

whered u get your control arm because i just called advance autoparts and autozone and they had nothing
 

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hockey contact tousley ford or hillbish ford they both have very good deals on stock parts
 

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Discussion Starter #9
everyone says that but im in ny unless they can call up hassett ford and tell thim to give me the discount then im bout to go there and get both sides and rape my walet
 

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you will get the parts in a couple days through tousley if you can wait.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i called hilbilish and they said they dont give us discounts anymore but the guy droped the priice and he was gunna fax me a quote to see if the one by me will match
never got the quote didnt need it paid 120
after being told it was 90 syosset
140 hassett
130 hilbilish said he could get it for 117
and then after calling hilbilish and giving hasset the part number hasset had it listed at 109 120 total

still got that broken lower shock mount bolt

day 3 tmw to try and drill it and use a bolt remover
 

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I also had this happen to me when putting in polyurethane bushing and new springs. We took a air chisel to the nut and was able to pop the welds. Then just got a another bolt and a nut that fit and put it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
yeah i used the air chizzel to get the one from the lowercontrole arm to the knuckel off
also loads of pblaster dremel with cutting wheel opn it angel grinder lol

this last broken one i was driilling it out to use a bolt extracter and that mother[:)][:)][:)][:)]er broke in there and now i cant dril anymore cause peices are still stuck in there

im gunna try and dremel some of the weld and then chizel it off
but first a little more pblaster and some vice grips last shot till i break the weld off


or drive my 3 wheels focus off a cliff
 

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Yeah this job was awful man i was at it for like a week! But hang in there its totally worth it once you get it done! I caught a 70 year old guy today walking around it, giving it the up down, so i struck up a convo, he says he wants to get rid of his crown vic and buy a SVT just like it lol

Once you get the bolts out, you don't really need to get the bolts from a ford parts dealer, just keep the bits of the bolts you cut out and get the same length and diameter. Just absolutely make sure you get above or equivalent to GRADE 8 quality bolts. If you go to a local hardware store or tractor supply shop in your town, they should have em.

If you explain what you're doing to the people who work there im sure they'll be happy to help
 
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