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Discussion Starter #1
Okay so i got a new set of calipers that were rebuilt i purchased them on here from another member, today i goto school and put the car on the lift take off the old caliper on driver front and put new one on, ok so then i put the other one on the passenger side, after put together bleed the system, the driver side fluid didnt come out hardley at all, the passenger side came out in nice stream, so figured id try to bleed again, same results and when u apply the brake and then bleed driver side there is no releif of the pedal and hardly any fluid comes out, passenger side the pedal has releif when u bleed the line and has nice stream, now i know the focus is split brake where driver front and passenger rear are one and passenger front and driver rear are one on the mastercylinder, so i am wondering if maybe the propotioning valves are out and the mastercylinder is no good, cause the DF and PR dont have pressure but the DR and PF do have pressure, if any1 has any input please let me know the car is up at school right now and im going to tow back to the house in the morning and take the mastercylinder out and possible put in a new one
thanxx
 

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Brake System Bleeding

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.

NOTE: Make sure that the vehicle is standing on a level surface.

NOTE: The system consists of separate circuits for each front and diagonally opposite rear wheel. Each circuit can be bled independently.

CAUTION: The brake fluid reservoir must remain full with new, clean brake fluid at all times during bleeding.

Install the bleed tube to the bleed nipple.

2. Immerse the end of the bleed tube in a bleed jar containing a small quantity of approved brake fluid.

3. Position the bleed jar base at least 300 mm above the bleed nipple to maintain fluid pressure and prevent air leaking past the threads of the bleed nipple.

4. Loosen the bleed nipple by one-half turn.

5. Operate the brake pedal fully (pumping brake fluid and air into the bleed jar) and allow the brake pedal to return to the rest position.

6. Fill the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX mark.

7. Continue operating the brake pedal until air-free fluid is being pumped into the bleed jar.

8. With the brake pedal fully depressed tighten the bleed nipple.

CAUTION: Make sure the bleed nipple cap is installed after bleeding the brake line(s). This will prevent corrosion to the bleed nipple. Failure to follow this instruction may result in the bleed nipple becoming seized.

Repeat the procedure for the remaining brake lines.

Connect the battery ground cable.

Taken from Alldata
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanx for the input but I did all of the above I know it's a split diagonal I just only have pressure on one sidd I bleed that side numerous amounts of time enough so that I had basically did a fluid flush so I think the mastercylinder is out one of the valves is done but I'm not 100% though
 

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Simple things first. Check the zerk for clogs. I'd remove the zerk and check if the flow from the zerk hole is OK. If not, remove the brake line from that caliper and see if it's flowing OK. If it is, you've isolated the problem to the caliper itself. Depending on how long the caliper sat on a bench or in a pile before it was rebuilt could mean the fluid passages possibly rusted up and need further attention or the caliper needs outright replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well last night i did all of that, we took off the line from the caliper and it just had a lil drip flow, took it off from the steel line where it has the clip and then gets tightend from the bottom and it had a lil drip flow as well and this was on the driver front this was also the case on the passnger rear because its a split diagonal flow, the other side passenger front and driver rear were perfectly fine when we did the test on them, and i its not the caliper cause i replaced the new one i bought with the one that i drove there with and it was doing the same when, so i know its not the calipers, cause with either the new ones or old ones when i put the brake pedal all the way down the wheels still moves on the side that doesnt have pressure, but the other side that does work, the wheels wont spin at all, all of it was done on the lift too and we started the car to think maybe if i drove it around parking lot it would change ne thing and tested it again but nothing, same results, so which leaves me to beleive mastercylinder
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ohh and one more thing sorry i forgot to mention, we took a sample of the brake fluid(after basically running a fluid flush cause new clear fluid was coming threw the bleeder line)and squirted it into the drip pan that we used and if you looked at it from the right angle it appeared that there was water or condensation in the fluid you could see how the water rose above the fluid like when u mix oil and water the water stays at the top it looked like a glassy film standing over the fluid in the pan i dont know if water got in there and caused damage but just wanted to add that as an input as well
 

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If you have no or poor flow from a removed brake line my guess is that you either have a kink or obstruction in a hard line leading to that caliper, a damaged flexible line (the interior tubing can crush, bend or break and its impossible to see) or a damaged/clogged brake bias valve/bar. Sounds like the master cylinder is OK since you're getting good flow everywhere else.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
well thought that maybe as well but that wouldnt explain the fact that i drove there a half hour previously to all this happening and it was okay and it stoppd but it was squeaky and sounded like rotors were rubbing or slightly engagded so i had the calipers and i am in a brakes class so i figured lets look at it and see wats wrong so we did all lookd well just the caliper guide pins were lil dry and no grease but then when all went together no front driver brake and no passenge rear brake, put old calipers on bleed system same effect, trust me i am mechanically inclined and have done alot of brakes work be4 so i dont know what is wrong
 
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