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Discussion Starter #1
ok so i started on stage one of my wire tucking yesterday. my goal was to move the wire harrness thats runs the head lights and fog lights and all of that stuff. so i did.

ok with the had lights and grill out it looked like this


ok front bumper, core support, drivers side wheel linering, battery, head lights, all removed it looked something like this.


with the harness coming thew the fender. and no the car is not on the jack its on the jack stand thats under the sub frame.


ok and i forgot to take pics of the wire harrness all nice and rewrapped but i do have a few after pics of it so hear you go.




now all i have to do is clean the bay, there is so much extra dirt in there that you couldn't see befor. its crazy dirty. also removed the braket that goes on the motor mount. stock air box is gone so so is it. also some time this week the battery will be going in the back. just gotta get a circut breaker for it. so what do you guys think? now all i gotta do is the main engine harness. [grinking]
 

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Looks good man! Did you just tuck it thru and behind the fender?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yep, its was tight but actually didn't have to make any wire longer. even was able to move and shorten alot of the grounds. for some reason most of the grounds all run to the passangers side, i said [:)][:)][:)][:)] that and just grounded every thing as close to the conection as possible. and thanx, i'll try to get some more pics these were all with my phone
 

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yep, its was tight but actually didn't have to make any wire longer. even was able to move and shorten alot of the grounds. for some reason most of the grounds all run to the passangers side, i said [:)][:)][:)][:)] that and just grounded every thing as close to the conection as possible. and thanx, i'll try to get some more pics these were all with my phone
Yeah, I noticed 3 or more grounds connected on mine right by the battery, I havn't traced all of them down yet but plan on doing what you did. Did you have to drill any holes in the finder or did you fit them thru an existing opening.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
no holes were drilled, no wires were made longer, only thing i actually did was cut some of the ground wires and make them shorter. there is a huge hole there already. i guess its were the power works run the oil cooler relocation kit. but it worked out great for what i wanted to do. its about four inches behind the strut.
 

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need better close up pictures straight on not at goofy angels... so we can see whats going on without turning my laptop....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
will do, i was just in a hurry to get her put back in one peice at the time. but give me a day or two and i'll have them for ya.
 

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Looks pretty good from what I can see. Just wandering, how long did this take? I wouldn't mind doin this if it didn't take too long. The bumper have to come off though to do this?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yea to do it the way i wanted yes. because you have to get all of the shit from the passangers side to the drivers side, bumper and core support had to come off. it was maybe a 10 hour job, thats with alot of breaks because it was so danmed hot out. could be done in about 5 i just wanted to take my time and make sure i did it the way i wanted it.
 

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yeah wire tucking is tedius shit. you can't rush it too much becuase you gotta make sure you're lines arn't going to rub on anything and after all you're doing it to make the engine compartment look better so you gotta make it look nice.
 

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Thanks for the info. I might try to tackle this on Sunday if weather permits.
 

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ok, so you ran the harness in between the frame rail and the fender liner?

looks pretty darn good, but i want more pictures! lol

i just got some larger braided loom and shrink wrap, but i gotta wait a couple of weeks to get a solder gun to re-do the valve cover wiring... which i will add to my thread... good luck with your's roush!

and one thing...



please dont lay your socket wrench that close to the pos and neg, esp with a gell cell battery, it'll pop quicker than you can blink.
 

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Well I noticed on Honhon's thread you were asking about the bracket that is in between that battery and the air filter(in the pic hon posted above). Did you put a jack under the tranny and loosen the mounting bolts and that came out, or is there something else that has to be done? Also, after you finished, did you put that bracket back, or is it not required?

Thanks,
JFrye
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i just sat it there to take the pic honhon, and jfrye i did not put the braket back in. it is really easy to removed, just support the trans and un bolt the motor mount give it a few wiggles and comes right out after you un bolt the two spots that hold it to the car, also i did not put it back inbecause i have no need for it, if you have the stock intake you will need it if not just take it off. super easy.
 

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ok, just lookin out, lol...

and thats a nice idea about that bracket... i wonder whats bolted to it on the duratec, i may have to take a gander this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
its the battery box, on the duras. it is what the battery box bolts to so if you do a battery relocate then your good to take it out! i still gotta pick up a circuit breaker so i can move the batterty to the back.
 

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Thanks for the info 06Roush. Thats something else I've been interested in doing for a while. Moving the battery to the back, that is. But I wasn't sure of what all was needed to do this. I just need like a 4AWG wire and a circut breaker?
 

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yes, and make sure its a seald battery otherwise the battery will vent into the car's cabin.
 

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Thanks, Honhon. Another question I thought of now. Do I connect the 4AWG wire to the starter or what? What kind of circut breaker do I need and where could I pick one up at? Never really tried to relocate a battery before, so I'm kinda new to this.
 
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