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Torretto!
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i don't believe the header comes with a bolts. they don't come out when you take off the old manifold so there is really no reason to replace them.

I plan on getting on a dyno as soon as I get my fswerks intake and get it installed. i'll be fully bolted and tuned at that point so we'll see what I can put down. I have a 2.5 in exhaust vs a 3in and it's a DCT vs being a manual trans and I don't think the fswerks intake produces as much hp as some of the other intakes so I don't know if it will hit 190 but if I can get close to that i'll be happy.
I'll be getting a baseline dyno soon with just the fs werks intake and rmm...once I have that, get the tuning (on the way!!), exhaust and header installed and tuned and see where I'm at...trying to keep all variables the same on the subsequent dyno.
 
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Torretto!
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I've done the upgrades to all the main wires, a grounding kit..while they did improve the aftermarket stereo slightly, definitley no increase in power....deadpool should stick to proven power adders. Have tried braided wires that attach to spark plugs another so called hidden secret...did nothing
 
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#dailydriven
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That one could help, no-one figures the basic wiring got any better with the new car!

You'd have to adapt the idea to a different setup, IIRC the manual suggests NOT attaching an additional ground for accessories right at the battery so the battery monitor will work right.

With the MkIII grounding to a single point by the battery only, maybe connect from there to the engine for a solid ground instead of depending only on a ground strap to the engine from the body elsewhere.

Same thing could hold true for the positive, I'd have to see the wiring since there's a sensor for current in the original setup - don't want to bypass that.

At that point you've got one of the original three that makes sense for sure. A combined additional engine to body ground & engine to battery one - junction where the original attaches to the body so it's almost like two of the original three.
you are very knowledgeable but its like you are speaking a foreign language lol. I might have to skip this idea. I know nothing about wiring stuff. I'd need to see pictures of what exactly I'd have to do.
 

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#dailydriven
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I've done the upgrades to all the main wires, a grounding kit..while they did improve the aftermarket stereo slightly, definitley no increase in power....deadpool should stick to proven power adders. Have tried braided wires that attach to spark plugs another so called hidden secret...did nothing
you did this on your mk3 or a different car?
 

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#dailydriven
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I'll be getting a baseline dyno soon with just the fs werks intake and rmm...once I have that, get the tuning (on the way!!), exhaust and header installed and tuned and see where I'm at...trying to keep all variables the same on the subsequent dyno.
looking forward to that! you and I will have very similar mods so it will be cool to see what both our cars put down.

So you ordered a tune from Tom? when are you getting it?
 

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Discussion Starter #46
did the obx header come with new seals and bolts?
It comes with 2 gaskets (block-to-header and header-to-exhaust pipe) and no other hardware.

nice job, any plans to dyno? id love to see your numbers with toms tune and the list of mods you have. if you are close to 190whp i will defiantly look more seriously into the MK3. i found a dealer that has 2015 SE manuals for 13k. and i might go after one when tax time.
Thanks; no plans to dyno at this point, but I might look into it sometime in the future.
 

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It comes with 2 gaskets (block-to-header and header-to-exhaust pipe) and no other hardware.



Thanks; no plans to dyno at this point, but I might look into it sometime in the future.
i know Tom does great work, but by butt dyno alone what you think you would be close too now?

also if the Ford DCT is similar to the others on the market. your WHP would be the same as Manual. maybe a little off. but DCT is basically a clutchless manual.
 
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#dailydriven
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well it's not clutchless, it has two clutches, hence "dual clutch transmission" but I agree that it is similar to a manual when it comes to horsepower numbers. I'm thinking a fully bolted and tuned focus with dct should get into the high 180's. that's what I'm hoping for when I hit the dyno.
 

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Torretto!
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Torretto!
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also if the Ford DCT is similar to the others on the market. your WHP would be the same as Manual. maybe a little off. but DCT is basically a clutchless manual.
It's a few % less for the dct
 

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No relationship between the two questions, I answered both your prev. posts in one.

Pedalmax dingus is what a tune can already do, no need for the extra plug in toy when you can have settings for the throttle response changed already.


As far as grounding the TB, I'll say again that no-one proved any advantage - AND that the theoretical advantage is VERY tenuous. Give it try, anything but placebo effect is doubtful.

TPS and TB throttle plate motor are both wired up direct, don't have a ground through the TB so an "extra" one won't add to an existing one. The chances of a static charge in the plastic body affecting those is quite small, like the chance that they actually have a contact to ground that an additional body ground helps (remember, it's all plastic).
This is somewhat off topic, but related to grounding issues. Some newer Fiestas had electrical issues because the battery ground mounting point on the body was painted over. The fix is to remove the paint from the ground point, there's a U tube video for it.
I haven't had any electrical issues, but just to be sure I checked my 2012 Ti and the battery grounding connection on the body was painted over on mine. So I got out the sandpaper, removed the paint, covered it with dialectic grease and reattached it. So if your ground connection is painted over, this might be a good preventative procedure to do, especially for all of us that live in the snow belt.
 

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Old Phart
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X2 - painted over is typical, with bolt head & bolt threads the only contact points.

Makuloco had a good vid. on that, link is dead now but the thread still exists in the MkIII problems section.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
i know Tom does great work, but by butt dyno alone what you think you would be close too now?

also if the Ford DCT is similar to the others on the market. your WHP would be the same as Manual. maybe a little off. but DCT is basically a clutchless manual.
I've added on my mods gradually, so it's hard to say since I don't have anything to compare to. I need to find a stock focus to drive and see

Sent from my 6039S using Tapatalk
 

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just take a look at the dyno section

ALL DCT's dyno lower than 5 SPD manuals

on average 5-10hp less with similar mods and stock

which is probably why the 5spd is also almost 1 second faster to 60 mph
Do we really think that 5-10 HP is going to make a car almost 1 second quicker?
 

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No, I def overstated the impact of the difference in power ...

5-10 hp would probably more like 0.1-0.2 difference ...

the 1 second difference probably has to do with a combination of

-more power whp(less power loss
through the transmission
-lighter transmission
-gear ratio

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Thanks to Focus Fanatics, I was able to determine that this header was a direct fit for the MK3, so I bit the bullet and got one installed last week. I wanted to share my experience with this header to help other folks who are thinking about installing a header.

The removal of the stock exhaust manifold is the most laborious part of this process. You're going to have to remove the windshield cowl, the underengine tray,exhaust brace, and part of the rear and passenger upper engine mounts. You have to do all this because you're going to need every inch of clearance to remove the stock exhaust manifold from the engine bay.

In my case, after unbolting the passenger UMM and RMM and lowering the engine an inch or two on a jack, I pulled the it forward while at the same time pulling out the exhaust manifold and was able to get the manifold out. So it is possible to do this as a one-man job, but would have been much easier with a buddy.

Also, I couldn't get the two O2 sensors off of the manifold while it was inside the engine bay, but still had enough clearance even with them on the manifold as it was being removed. I’ve seen other threads that mentioned that the primary O2 sensor cable is too short with the new manifold, but with the OBX header, it will be just long enough. You’ll have to remove one of the mounts for the O2 sensor cable bundle and that will allow the stock primary O2 sensor to fit.

With the OBX header, you’ll also get a bonus of weight reduction – without the heat shield and with the new header (which also loses the flex pipe mount), you’re shedding about 8 lbs.

As for sound and performance, with my Magnaflow catback and secondary cat, there is a definite increase in exhaust noise, but you can keep it subdued if you don't lay into the throttle and it doesn't drone. Performance wise, I can definitely feel it pulling more strongly, mostly in the mid and high end.

So I’m pretty happy with the header – just remember to set aside a weekend or so to get the thing installed. Lastly, here's a comparo pic of stock and OBX:

I know I am extremely late, but do you have a link for that header?
 
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