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Vince your Moderator
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Nice subs man.
 

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Looks like a good set up but I hope you clean it up. Cover the box in carpet and come up with somthin cleaner then running the wire through the port and you should be set
 

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yeah, what they said, by the way you used the wrong wood. 3/4" mdf is the best for sub boxes.
 

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Vince your Moderator
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yeah, what they said, by the way you used the wrong wood. 3/4" mdf is the best for sub boxes.
I have to disagree, Baltic Birch Plywood is the best to build enclosures out of.

But it is expensive, lighter and more dense. 1/2" Birch vs. 3/4" MDF

MDF is the best if you are on a budget.
 

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I have to disagree, Baltic Birch Plywood is the best to build enclosures out of.

But it is expensive, lighter and more dense. 1/2" Birch vs. 3/4" MDF

MDF is the best if you are on a budget.
The reason people use MDF instead of grained plywood is because grained plywood creates sounds in the 200 hz range from sounds in the lower ranges. The grains do it. The old Radio Shack speaker builder books used small dividers to break up the sections so resonation would be minimal. Back then, press-board was all we could choose from, and it suffered from too much flex if you didn't beef up long sides. MDF doesn't suffer from flexing.

I also disagree with the surmise that 3/4 MDF is the best- some designs might need 1", or doubled 3/4 sides.

Is that some sort of transmission line box?
 

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I.S.A.I.K.I.
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Looks like a good set up but I hope you clean it up. Cover the box in carpet and come up with somthin cleaner then running the wire through the port and you should be set
Werd. Run the terminals through the front of the box for a cleaner look. That wire running through the port would drive me crazy hearing it slap around in there.
 

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The reason people use MDF instead of grained plywood is because grained plywood creates sounds in the 200 hz range from sounds in the lower ranges. The grains do it. The old Radio Shack speaker builder books used small dividers to break up the sections so resonation would be minimal. Back then, press-board was all we could choose from, and it suffered from too much flex if you didn't beef up long sides. MDF doesn't suffer from flexing.

I also disagree with the surmise that 3/4 MDF is the best- some designs might need 1", or doubled 3/4 sides.

Is that some sort of transmission line box?
yeah some do call for a thicker mdf but just as a general build fo a speaker box 3/4" mdf will work much better. like he said he is only pushing 600watts, 3/4" would be plenty. a sheet of it only cost about $35, im guessing you would need about 2 sheets so thats $70. about $30-$40 in wood screws and some sealant inbetween all the boards (personaly i use liquid nails). you could build a great box for right around $120-$150, how much was spent on that box?
i understand everyone has budgets, trust me i know. if your gonna do it and put that much effort into it wait that little bit of extra time and save that little bit of money. buy the right stuff and you would be much more pleased with it. its called a project because its a project not a task with a deadline.
 

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Vince your Moderator
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The reason people use MDF instead of grained plywood is because grained plywood creates sounds in the 200 hz range from sounds in the lower ranges. The grains do it. The old Radio Shack speaker builder books used small dividers to break up the sections so resonation would be minimal. Back then, press-board was all we could choose from, and it suffered from too much flex if you didn't beef up long sides. MDF doesn't suffer from flexing.

I also disagree with the surmise that 3/4 MDF is the best- some designs might need 1", or doubled 3/4 sides.

Is that some sort of transmission line box?
13 ply birch is awesome stuff. The biggest upside is that it does not get destroyed by moisture. Plus, it is more durable than MDF when it comes down to getting dropped or, banged around.
 

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Deutsche Arsche
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Sorry if you don't like this reply but it seems fitting, if you spent all this money on good quality wood, then why the hell did you use crappy screws and not finish it off in a good wood stain and poly the stain? Plus make it a good finished install. Like having a Mercedes SL on steel wheels with hubcaps.
 

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Vince your Moderator
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Deutsche Arsche
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Not really if you have to use winter tires all winter long most use a set of cheap aluminium wheels.
 

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no miter and dado groove joints? No carpeting? No hide wires? Looks odd to see one sub reversed.
but its the function that matters right.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well frankly to be competitive it doesnt have to be pretty... alot of competition cars do not have "pretty boxes" . The reason I ran the wires the way I did is to keep losses from holes drilled in the back of the box from affecting output . I presonally dont care if it is pretty as long as i get the output I am looking for . its my daily driver and i end up building boxes with different alignments alot . so why put all that effort into a box just to pull it out 2 weeks later to build something different?
 

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I would definitely mount the one sub so the motor is in the box.

If you had huge motors then i might show them off but still, sub motors in box please :)
 
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