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Discussion Starter #1
Today I managed to get my new parts on the car....

Prothane lower engine (tranny) mounts: $20.00 shipped
Pressing them in by a local machine shop: $10.00
Total: ~$30.00

This is a must for any SVT owner. You can feel a bit more engine vibrations in the car now, but nothing major by any means. If anything, the vibration goes with the sound of the engine and makes the car feel more aggressive. Throttle response is definitely better and does a much nicer job of getting our precious torque to the ground faster. Bottom line: Cheap mod, easy installation....do it. Aside from saving machine shop costs, I can't justify the cost of the VF Engineering or MAC mount. Perhaps the factory mount won't hold up under high loads, but my engine is still stock so we'll see what happens over time. Still, the factory 'dog bone' mount housing looks beefy enough.

AND

Steeda Tri-Ax Short Shift kit: ~$90.00 shipped.
Total: ~$90.00

Words cannot describe how nice this is. It reminds me of my shift linkage in my VW which had a short shift kit (set to 50% reduction) and almost 2.5" cut off the shifter. Shifts are more solid, no more slop. Looks alot better than that yard stick of a shifter SVT gave us. It does take more effort to shift, but you can't get away from that, physics won't lie. I'm expecting it to loosen up a bit once the grease gets squished around, but it is still far far better than stock. This is the way the shifter should have been delivered to us from Ford.

Both mods work awesome together. Before, I would be able to chirp my tires from first to second (@~7,000 RPM) with no problems (under hard driving). Now, I can shift at around 5,000 RPM and get the same audible response with less effort. The car feels and drives better...definitely worth the $120 price tag and the time.

Hope this helps someone out...
Nick
 

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Thanks for the info! Can you or someone else elaborate on the tranny mounts. I'm not sure what this is or does. I have not been that impressed with the stock shifter sounds like I will like the Steeda. How different is the pivot point?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
About the tranny mount...you have three choices really. You can get the VF-Engineering kit: http://www.focussport.com/mounts.htm , the MAC mount which is basically the VF mount with grease fittings, or the separate bushing route: http://www.focusperformance.com/tpls/Detail.tpl?command=search&db=foccat.db&eqskudata=41123G&cart=328155649870186

I went with the last route because it was the cheapest and I've heard nothing but good comments anyway. to answer your other question, the mount is just a link between the transmission and the subframe of the car...something that keeps the engine/tranny from rocking back and forth. However, from the factory, the mounts are designed to reduce NVH (noise vibrations harmonics) so iit filters out the vibrations and resonances for comfort at the expense of introducing some slop in the grand scheme of throttle response.

The steeda shifter has a shorter rod above the pivot and a longer rod below the pivot...and it really works well. Overall, the kit is very well designed and constructed. The factory shifter is just a bent rod threaded into a plastic ball...the steeda kit is a straight rod machined from a solid piece of steel (with the exception of the piece coming out of the pivot ball; that is a separate piece obviously). Throws are much shorter, cleaner, quieter, and solid. You will like.[:)]
 

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got a steeda short shifter for christmas, AWESOME

that is all I got to say, when you don't even have to search for third gear, it rules, it nearly shifts itself
 

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Essveetee, would you consider making a little write-up of how you did these mods? If you did them of course...

I'm all for adding a short-shifter to my SVT, and it would be nice if I knew ahead of time what to do, what to avoid, how long it took, etc. I did install a TRD short shifter in my MR2 years ago, but that was a pretty easy interior to take apart. Just a thought. We could even post it in the Newbie and FAQ forum for reference...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'd be happy to help you or anyone interested in either of these mods. Unfortunately, I do not have a digital camera, but I can work on something nonetheless....just let me know exactly what you want to know. The steeda shifter comes with decent installation instructions and should take less than 1 hour. There are a few parts of the install you can get around to save time, and I actually ended up taking longer than expected only because I was busy inspecting the stock setup and and snooping around. If I were just following the procedure, I could've had it done in about 30 minutes I'd say. I can add two points however: when removing the stock shift knob, lift up the center console to gain access to the shift rod. At the base of the knob, you will see two machined flats...use these to loosen/tighten the knob. I've heard of people using all sorts of measures to loosen the knob, but it is really as simple as an adjustable wrench. Steeda doesn't mention this in their instructions so maybe this is where people decide to get creative. Second, it is not necessary to monkey with the cigarette lighter/power source in the side of the console. Steeda has you disconnect it and take the whole console out. I just moved the console to the side and managed to do the install without any problems.

The tranny mounts don't come with instructions (at least the separate bushings don't, maybe the VF kit does) so it helps if you know your way around a car. Still, the engine mount is as simple as supporting the car on jack stands, supporting the tranny with a jack (not REALLY necessary, but I'd recommend it) and loosening the two mounting bolts on the dog-bone mount (located in about the center of the engine/tranny on the firewall side). You will need a 1/2" socket or wrench (a 1/2" breaker bar proved useful for me) to loosen and remove the bolts. Also, I advise loosening the goldish plate that mounts with two other 1/2" bolts to the tranny to get the mount free (you will see the plate). At this point, remove the dog bone and proceed to press the old bushings out and press the new ones in (unless you are bored or have a press, take it to a machine shop). Installation of the new bushing mount is the reverse of the removal. I don't have torque values for the bolts, so someone please chime in with them if possible. As a general rule of thumb, the bolt securing the larger bushing can be tightened a bit more safely because it is attached directly to the stamped steel cross member. The smaller bushing that connects to the transmission bellhousing should be tightened with more care though to avoid possibly stripping the threads (learn from my previous mistakes). For both bolts though, I just snugged them up and then applied a steady ~90 degree turn to get it good and tight. Once again though, if someone has torque values for these, use those...I didn't have access to them. The bolts I took out didn't have any thread lubricant on them, so I didn't bother to put any on. Make sure the bolts are tight (along with the plate I had you loosen) and you are ready to get the car on the ground and enjoy the benefits of polyurethane. Depending on how long your machine shop takes, I'd say to set aside a Saturday morning for this one to be safe. It could take as little as mintues, but I've found its better to have more time than not enough.

For the most part, that is it. If anyone has any more questions on the mounts or any questions that aren't covered in steeda's instructions let me know.

Nick
 

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Cool, thanks! That's pretty much exactly what I was looking for. Sounds good. With the shifter that was pretty much what I wanted to know: I noticed the shift knob seemed tighter than any manual car I've ever driven before (which left me wondering if it was more than just screwed onto the shaft like they usually are), and I was wondering how much work was involved in getting the console off. So, thanks.

The tranny mount I could probably do, too, but that would be much easier to let someone else do for my own situation. [thumb]
 
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