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Focus autox'r
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So now that I have a pontiac van for daily driving.
The FoFo is slowly turning into a race car.
I started autoxing 3 years ago.Been to 7. And ran my first drag race EVER 3 months ago.
Planning on going to summit point atleast once this year. Masybe more next year.
So I am trying to make it well balanced. Not going for all out power.
And I dont have the budget that some have to spend on their track toys.
But its paid off and it wouldnt matter if I wrecked it so here it goes.


^this was w/o 'tuning' cam gears, and without early 2000 Intake Manifold that makes 5hp/tq on a stock focus.
Its been ported to fit a 65mm TB.
So as ray at mcnews told me the IM was the 'bottleneck' in my engines breathing.
This mod made a REAL nice difference and should gain atleast 8 hp/tq with all the other mods.
Placing it squarely at 140 hp + 145 tq at the wheels.
Plus a 55 shot will put me right around 200 hp/tq at the wheels.








 

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Looks like a good start ! ...Yeah, I'm still up.
 

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Focus autox'r
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2,507 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I'm bored and cant sleep so here goes what i have done so far.
ALL work has been done by myself.
Some work wouldn't of been done without help from friends, like Brian and Bill.
Many others have helped too...Aaron,ms.Viney,Ken and even Ian.
PROPS to ALL that have helped me out along the way so [email protected],[email protected] Edge Performance...and ALL my focused friends.

SUSPENSION MODS:
KONI yellow damping adjustable shocks/struts
KONI springs 1.6" lower
STEEDA 28.6 mm rsb
FOCUS SPORT rear brace bar
N1 front strut tower brace bar

ENGINE MODS:

INTERNAL:
CRANE stage 2 cams

EXTERNAL:
AEM cam gears
K+N FIPK short ram intake(thank you Brian)
FOCUS CENTRAL 65 mm TB
2000 focus Intake manifold(ported to match TB)
S+S 4-1 long tube race header
2.5" flex pipe
2.25 OBX flex pipe back exhaust(with MAGNAFLOW muffler welded in)
FOCUS SPORT UDP
180 degree thermostat
Ford motorcraft one step colder spark plugs
MSD spark plug wires
Grounding wires plate
NX nitrous kit(thank you Bill)
NX bottle heater
NX remote bottle opener

ECU:
SCT excal 2

DRIVETRAIN:
CFM adjustable short shifter
ENERGY SUSPENSIONS Lower (dogbone) mount inserts

INTERIOR:
MOMO pedals
WHite faced gauges
back seat delete and some trim pieces removed
Focus Central spark plug cover
12" KICKER sub/450 watt kenwood amp<--removed for spirited driving<--for sale if interested
jvc head unit (with ipod hook up)

EXTERIOR:
Wings West front lip
Smoked corners
Laminex yellow fog lights
Black eyelids
35% tint F+R

Wheels:
SVT five spoke with crappy neo gens for now
16{"rota slipstreams <- to soon be fitted with some r compounds

IN the works...
Lakewood traction bars
MOOG balljoints
EIBACH front sway bar
MOOG fsb endlinks
PROTHANE front control arm bushings

WAITING TO GO ON:
Brake lights tint
Black out headlight surrounds
Tint corner lights
RS focus spoiler
Wings west side skirts
Turbo kit...hehehe yea like I could afford THAT!

More to follow. Like coilovers, svt brakes, and clutch/flywheel/4.01 when it goes.
Also will post pics of front suspension rebuild for anyone that also has worn out bushings+/or worn ball joints.
 

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Focus autox'r
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2,507 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Here's the front suspension bits.


The replacement radiator support is MUCH beefier than the stock stamped piece. Which will stiffen up front chassis.
I'm really excited about this piece...stiffer chassis, AND no more crazy drivers side wheel spin.


ALL these MOOG bits come with grease nipples. And are alot more stronger than stock pieces



heres a few pics of the MOOG ball joint with the factory one




Bought some front control arms from a local salvage yard so I can remove ball joints and press in new bushings...in case of damage to control arms while using a 20 ton press to install bushings.
If I end up getting them in first try without screwing them up. I can always sell the ones that come off my focus.

STarted out pilot drilling ball joint rivets. Stepping up the drill bit size until I had removed almost all the inner rivet. Then I used a dremel+then grinder to notch the top of rivets.You cant tell in pics but these rivets are not small.
After drilling out, and notching. Then I chiseled off the top of rivet. Now to get out the other ball joint. And then the bushings.
notice the stock ball joint is out
 

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Focus autox'r
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2,507 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Looks like a good start ! ...Yeah, I'm still up.
Thanks ...i should of just stayed and finished taking off the other ball joint.
You think I could, or should reinforce control arms?
Maybe weld on small diameter tubing in a triangle underneath A-Arm.

Feel free to comment, or post questions.
 

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Actually SVT brakes aren’t necessary upgrade at first, a good set of Carbotech Front and rear pads will suffice for starting out. I’m thinking the XP8’s in the front and AX6’s in the rear. The 8’s should more then handle all the heat your going to be able to put in them at your first few track events. Cabotech brake pads are a bit expensive, but worth every dollar. They are the only brake pad I’ll put on my SVT.
 

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Mtn. Dew
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My brakes heat up really quickly. I wouldn't consider driving on track with them, unless I was going to go like 60%.
 

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Well I have a friend that’s way faster then me he ran stock size brakes for a while on track. I think he used the Carbotech XP10’s or 12’s. Eventually he did go to the SVT fronts. When the brake get hot as you know the pads will Glaze these are the tem range for the various pads

AX6’s (150°F to 1250°F +).
XP8’s (200°F-1350°F+).
XP10’s 1650°F
Xp12’s 250°F to 2000°F
 

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OMGVTAK!
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60,646 Posts
Hey Kevin, I sent you a PM.
 

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2,355 Posts
Busted lol
 

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Focus autox'r
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2,507 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Funny how EVERY person to post is from the...
wait for it...














MID ATLANTIC!!!

O well no biggie.

Yeah i have been thinking about buiying carbon brake pads for a while now.
I cant decide what to buy next.
R compounds or carbon brake pads for the front.
The sucky drums in the rear will not get any of my hard earned $.
They will go straight to the landfill when i upgrade the rear to svt status.
I could even get the brake pads before feb.8th.
 

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Focus autox'r
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2,507 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
XP8’s (200°F-1350°F+).
XP10’s 1650°F
Xp12’s 250°F to 2000°F
If the xp 10's operating range is from 225-1650 then i will prolly go with them.
Where can i get?

Busted lol
Yeah haha

LOLz [hah]
You know i rarely start a thread...figures when i want to get the advice from the peeps i have meet and know in the surrounding states...I get moved[scratch]

BTW, Kevin it's come a long way from the first meet back when.
Thanks
 

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Focus autox'r
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Discussion Starter #16
Does ANYONE IN THE WORLD that isnt in the mid atlantic have any opion on it.
Like/dislike/ ideas what they would do next?
I will try to dig up some more pics soon.
 

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Does ANYONE IN THE WORLD that isnt in the mid atlantic have any opion on it.
Like/dislike/ ideas what they would do next?
I will try to dig up some more pics soon.
In regards to cosmetics: Just remember to keep it suttle, IMO. So far it's nice. Maybe get some SVT Black Housing Headlamps. The suspension parts look great. I'm sure the subframe brace will make a difference, and you have the 28mm rear sway, in case you were to experience any type of understeer.
 

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I like it and I wish I had another car for a DD, so I could gut my interior and make mine into a beast. Post some pics of the engine.
 

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Focus autox'r
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2,507 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
In regards to cosmetics: Just remember to keep it suttle, IMO. So far it's nice. Maybe get some SVT Black Housing Headlamps. The suspension parts look great. I'm sure the subframe brace will make a difference, and you have the 28mm rear sway, in case you were to experience any type of understeer.
I like it and I wish I had another car for a DD, so I could gut my interior and make mine into a beast. Post some pics of the engine.
Thanks
Yeah the steeda rsb makes it oversteer alot.
 
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