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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, as promised, I am updating my report on MK3 brake upgrade to MK3 ST front brakes. Yes, it can be done. (The calipers finally arrived off of b/o this morning) The Motorcraft BRCF227, BRCF226 do work on the caliper bracket BRBCF 28, which makes the usage of MK3 ST rotors and pad conversion possible. It is a direct bolt on, with no modifications to hub assembly needed. I did find that the factory dust shield will work when you upgrade the brakes from the 278mm rotor to the 320mm rotor, but you will have to bend it slightly to get it away from the rotor. Some of the catalogues show these calipers to fit the mid 14 and beyond upgraded brakes on the ST (335mm rotor) but this is wrong. I saw the 2014 today at the dealership and it uses a completely different caliper tension/support spring than the one used on the 2013-early 2014 model ST. I am not certain that there is enough advantage to go to the 335mm rotor (which is approx. 5/8" larger diameter over the 320mm rotor), plus there are concerns about cost and availability of parts. Even the calipers for the 320mm rotors were on b/o.

Getting a rebuilt ST caliper has proved difficult; A-1 Cardone says you have to send your caliper in for a rebuild, O'reilly Auto and NAPA said the same thing. Even getting a Motorcraft caliper required a wait and backorder, shipped from National (Michigan).

The weight difference between most of the 278mm rotors and the 320mm ST rotor is between 3-6 each, not the 2-5 as I earlier reported, so increased rolling mass and possible reduced fuel economy may result. But the increased margin of safety given by the larger surface area of the brake pad and the resulting increase in surface area of the rotor means that longer life, and reduced issues with rotor run out or warping rotors are great benefits at a low cost. The brackets sell for about $45 each new, calipers rebuilt w/ core charge are $185 and rotor price will vary depending upon quality and source of rotor, plus pads and caliper hardware kit. (I bought Centric 125.39038 high carbon rotors locally for $64 each, your costs will vary).

I know that this combination will mount because I did it with the used calipers and the new brackets that I sourced locally. The Motorcraft calipers came with the numbers of BV61-2B302, BV61-2B294 stamped into them, which match the used caliper set I had on hand. But, I wanted to see if the 226/227 Motorcraft numbers were the same as the ones I know would fit.

So, now you know the answer to a question that nobody asked!
 

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Great 411, so you went w/ the earlier style 320mm set up? To cut rotor weight, have you looked at the possibly of 2 piece rotors in that size?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, I will install the 320mm set up this weekend. I know it will fit because I have already done a mockup mounting with the new bracket and used ST calipers with the pads and rotors mounted, but not with the fluid line connected. (At the time I did the mock up, I had only one new caliper mounting bridge, otherwise I would have gone ahead and done the conversation at that time.)

My problem with the two piece rotor is the cost; there is always a cost vs benefit ratio that I must work with, especially given my income constraints. Besides, I realize that the increased mass means that heat has a larger resistance to warping and the change from inexpensive plain cast iron to a mix of grey iron and high carbon content will give greater wear resistance and long life. Some two piece rotors that I have seen are very cheaply done and I have to wonder about their quality, especially since the finish doesn't give one confidence that it won't crack or warp. I cannot purchase a good two piece rotor for $65 each, so, alas, I must pass on that idea. If I could be sure that the 335mm rotor could clear the 17" wheel, I might have done that, but a quick check of the local parts people found that none of them had the rotor in the local WD and that a couple of them said it simply wasn't available yet, even if they listed it in the catalogue.

Even so, I still cringe when I sold parts and found people willing to spend $1000 for chrome rims and tyres, but they wanted the 7.95 brake pads! And even though I still do some work, I'd rather refuse to do a job if they want to try and save money by buying cheap, poor quality parts.
 

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Yea, I get what your saying^^^^^^^great your doing a st brake setup, for sure.
 

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Good work, maybe not the first to try but it's a great write up with the details.

"Stickie" by itself for now, gets asked regularly. (Can join others in the reference stickie later)
 

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Is this really an upgrade? The ST's brakes have been a bit of a low point when reviewed and one of the car rags ran an ST at Leguna Seca and was the only car in the test that had to be flat bedded due to roasted brakes. I'd rather pony up a little more and go with a Wilwood conversion.
 

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Should be a good upgrade for a MkIII, the ST roasts 'em more as they work for traction control/torque vectoring. Not as much power/wheel spin from the std. version and street use for braking it's def. better.
 

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If the price is right on ST parts it probably would be worth it for an average SE driver that wants a little more but I haven't really had any issues with the stock brakes and I do like my spirited driving.
 

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Is this really an upgrade? The ST's brakes have been a bit of a low point when reviewed and one of the car rags ran an ST at Leguna Seca and was the only car in the test that had to be flat bedded due to roasted brakes. I'd rather pony up a little more and go with a Wilwood conversion.
>>>I would also^^^^^^^
Should be a good upgrade for a MkIII, the ST roasts 'em more as they work for traction control/torque vectoring. Not as much power/wheel spin from the std. version and street use for braking it's def. better.
>>>I'd think the same for the n/a mk111, similar to the wrx's.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm disappointed that it's necessary to do this at all; all of my MK1 Focus required the upgrade (SVT) due to warping stock sized rotors on a regular basis. My 1972 Ford Pinto Country Squire Wagon never warped rotors, it needed only to replace pads until the rotor hit its minimum thickness point. The upgrade is for street vehicles, here in San Francisco rotors warp; its just a fact of life on the OEM front rotors. My MK3 needs a rotor machine for the second time in less than 40k miles, while the factory pads have over 50%remaining.

The good news here is that the Ford One project has made swapping parts much easier; thus, a MK3 SE owner could upgrade from the 278mm rotor all the way up to the 335mm ST rotor used since mid-2014, if he/she wants to without having to swap the spindle/knuckle assembly and the additional costs associated with that. As more Escapes/ST get salvaged, the used parts availability will get better and costs will go down to perform an upgrade. Right now salvage yards around San Francisco are asking $60 and up for a ST/Escape caliper w/o the mounting bracket. In a most picknpull's calipers are $25 exchange + $8 for a bracket.

It might even be possible to use the 335mm ST rotors; the Centric catalogue shows that the 10416450 pad fits both the 320mm rotor as well as the 335mm front rotor for the ST; some parts catalogue show that the BRCF227/226 calipers (which are the ones I have for the 2013 ST) are also used on the mid 2014 and up ST models, but, from what I saw yesterday on a vehicle, that did not appear to be the case. If the pads are indeed the same, then it is possible that the 227/226 calipers might work if a different caliper bridge is used. But, I have no interest in doing further research on this.

In a quick measurement check today, I think there might be enough clearance to do the 335mm rotors and still clear a 17" factory wheel and it might even be possible to use 320 upgrade on a 16" factory wheel, but that is an item for someone else to check out.
 

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Weight on the newer models takes its toll on brakes. Look at the weight of your Pinto wgn & then compare that to your mk1 & then to your mk3. I never had a brake issue w/ any of my 3 V/8 Vega's running the stock brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes, weight is for sure a factor in the brake wear issues, however, my problem is that the brake upgrades haven't pace with the increases with weight and size. Way back when, I drove a Datsun 1200 coupe with a heavily modified motor; Webber 40dcoe carb, mechanical advance only distributor, modified cam grind, high compression head, exhaust headers, glass packs and Datsun factory racing suspension on Minilite wheels with Dunlop tyres. Cut at least 2 seconds off of stock time; needed octane boost even with premium fuel, but ran stock solid rotors in front, with heavy duty metallic pads. (needed to "warm up" the brakes) My point is that the rotors and pads had built in margins of safety without the need to upgrade. Ford should have upgraded the materials in the rotor and/or size of the rotor to handle the additional weight caused by upgrades in safety and convenience.

In my years working with German imports, we had far less issues of rotors warping and/or pad failures than I have had with my Ford compacts going all the way back to the original Escort series sold in the US. Rotor machining when I started in this business was mainly done to reduce noise and insure maximum brake pad life, not to correct rotor run out or warped rotors. Sure, warped rotors occurred, but, it isn't like today where its rare (in my experience) that a front brake rotor won't require at least one machining to correct run out before it reaches its wear limit. I'm on my second time around on the original rotor needing to have the run out dealt with. As past experience has shown, upgrades to larger front rotors and better cast materials, has or will eliminated the need to constantly resurface rotors to eliminate rotor run out.

Today we have too many choices in grades of parts; it was once common to only have one grade of standard replacement brake rotors and/or drums. I used to buy Century branded rotors and drums (these were re-labeled Bendix) and there wasn't an "economy grade", OEM grade, and "premium grade" items. There has always been an economy grade brake material;i.e., Grand Pro ( organic bargain brand), Bendix EDF, Bendix Metal King, Bendix racing/police duty but that was reserved for lining materials only.
 

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As far as the vehicle manufacters keeping up w/ brake systems for their models, some have & then some are or were behind. Sure materials & technology have changed some, but it also comes down to the bean counters, unless someone fights for the upgrades & then depending on the model. I would have thought that Ford would of had or offered a bbk & a diff as a trackpac option for the st. Asking the brakes to act as a diff throws heat into them, what do they expect? Most ppl aren't going to install a diff, let alone upgrade to a aftermarket bbk.
 

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So lucky me I grabbed some used ST brakes. Found the stamps on the calipers themselves to match the OP here, but the brackets and springs I'm unsure about. The images I've found online both confirm and deny. What I have here matches what I can find on RockAuto, but not other sites. Is this the right set of bits to do this?



Edit: awwww snap I found another resource and it shows the exact set that I have. Woo! Time to pick up some brake cleaner!
 

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Do i have to buy new set of bolts or SE bolts fits perfectly for ST brake calipers


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Do i have to buy new set of bolts or SE bolts fits perfectly for ST brake calipers


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I'd think the bolts for the bracket would be the same.
 

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Was wondering
Since the rear caliper are same..does it means that the stainless brake hose of ST can be apply on SE too?
 

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I just installed front ST calipers on my 2012 Ti with Hawk HPS pads and StopTech slotted rotors all around. I ordered 'new' OEM ST parts from a local Ford Dealer and everything bolted up without any issues. I already had Goodridge S.S. brake hoses installed and was able to reuse them on the new front ST calipers. The rear brakes are the same size for all Focus' so I didn't include any pictures of those. I had very good results installing aftermarket pads & rotors on my 99 Contour, so it was an easy decision to go with after market this time with the Focus. I chose slotted rotors just for the looks, but I put the ST calipers on for the larger pads and rotors for better braking performance. I don't even have a 100 miles on the new setup, so it's to soon to tell if I actually met my objective. Time & miles will tell.

The following pictures (in order) are OEM front brakes; ST front calipers with the above mentioned pad and rotor; OEM front brake pad v. Hawk HPS ST pad; OEM front rotor v. Stoptech slotted rotor; front wheel installed on new ST brake setup.
 

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The 3rd & 4th pix is great to show ppl the difference in size & reference. Great upgrade.
 
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