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Thanks for the info!!!
This is really helpful,
Might try the IDS again with the new pcm first .
that driving description is exactly as the van is, 3rd gear feels like it’s running out of gas.
 

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Thanks for the info!!!
This is really helpful,
Might try the IDS again with the new pcm first .
that driving description is exactly as the van is, 3rd gear feels like it’s running out of gas.
Good to hear that it wasn't all in my head because I still can't think of what would trigger that as you are nowhere near the RPM limit when it happens. Also, for me anyway, it only seemed to happen when downshifting. I didn't drive it all that long with the auto PCM so I kept wondering if it was just some fluke.
 

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Just to be clear with my Tune for this I do change the Auto PCM to a Manual reading PCM calibration

Tom
Meaning the manual PCM isn't a necessary if someone doing the swap has already purchased the tune from you?

I'm following this thread with interest. Once my 7y/100k is up, I will seriously look into the swap as my goal when I bought the car (new) was to drive it into the ground. If I can get a fresh clutch pack just before the extension expires, that'll give me more time to decide whether it's worth the time and effort (and also to find some used parts).
 

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Meaning the manual PCM isn't a necessary if someone doing the swap has already purchased the tune from you?

I'm following this thread with interest. Once my 7y/100k is up, I will seriously look into the swap as my goal when I bought the car (new) was to drive it into the ground. If I can get a fresh clutch pack just before the extension expires, that'll give me more time to decide whether it's worth the time and effort (and also to find some used parts).
That is correct. The tune will be able to get rid of the 3500 RPM limit and the startup warning messages. However, it won't retain the rear reversing lights and cruise control. There is a way to regain the reversing lights with some creative wiring using an external relay but I don't know of a way to get cruise control working if you keep the auto PCM. If you end up going the manual PCM route, I documented (earlier in this thread) how a couple relatively simple mods to the auto wiring harness can get these things working again. Having done this, it definitely is worth the time and effort. It is like a whole new car not having to put up with the DCT issues.

Start looking for a good doner vehicle and a salvage yard that will work with you to take care in removing and retaining ALL the parts you will need, including every nut and bolt. My guy just threw everything into a box and all the hardware into a water bottle but aside from one bracket, everything was there and easily sorted out. Knowing exactly what I needed saved me an extra trip to the salvage yard because I noticed the bracket was missing and we went and pulled it off the engine. Even though they were used, most of the parts looked like new and worked perfectly including the flywheel. The only other thing I wanted that didn't work out was the passenger side CV axle that had been damaged in the accident that totaled the doner vehicle in the first place. Just as well because the carrier bearings tend to wear out on that axle.
 

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Thats odd because the cruise goes through the PCM , not everyone has had the no cruise issue after the swap and my tune
The reverse light would be easy to change and connect to the clutch with out changing the PCM to a Manuel

Tom
 

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Thats odd because the cruise goes through the PCM , not everyone has had the no cruise issue after the swap and my tune
The reverse light would be easy to change and connect to the clutch with out changing the PCM to a Manuel

Tom
The reverse light works of of the DCT's gear position sensor that does not exist in the 5-speed transmission. On the MTX75, it is a simple switch that closes when the transmission is in reverse. However, for both the automatic and the manual, the signal goes through the PCM that talks to the BCM where there is an internal relay that energizes the wires going to the reverse lights. So, there is no easy way to do this through the auto PCM (it is expecting a signal from the gear position sensor, not a simple switch).

You would have to bypass all of that and just use the switch from the MTX75 to energize an external relay that you supply and that would have to be tapped into the wires coming out of the BCM that go to the lights. Also, you have to be careful in how you implement it because you don't want the reverse lights to stay on when the car is not running (if it was just parked in reverse) The way that Ford implemented something that should be very simple complicates things. I had this all planned out when I was going to keep the auto PCM but found a more straightforward way to do it going to the manual PCM. If I'm missing something here, please elaborate.

On the cruise control, I think it is somewhat of a similar problem. When you keep the auto PCM, you ground out a wire to make it think you are in neutral. This allows you to start the vehicle. However, because the PCM thinks it is in neutral, it won't engage the cruise. I drove my car for a couple weeks with the auto PCM and verified that this was the case. At least one other guy who did the MK3 transmission swap reported the exact same thing.
 

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Links to the 2 things you used to do this , would like to look into them more

Tom
How I did it on the manual PCM is in this thread - See posts 152 and 154. All it amounts to is finding the manual PCM pin that needs to be grounded when the reverse lights are to be illuminated so that pin goes to one wire on the transmission switch and the other wire on the switch is just grounded in a convenient spot. This lets the car use its original convoluted method to turn on the reverse lights, i.e., sending a signal to the PCM which in turn sends a signal to the BCM where it flips an internal relay to finally send 12V to the reverse lamp wiring coming out of the BCM.

The method I was going to use for the reverse lamps while retaining the auto PCM I just sketched out on paper but I did purchase a relay and hooked it up to the transmission switch and 12v power to verify that it would work but I abandoned it when I decided to swap the PCM. I had also identified the wires that it would need to energize coming out of the BCM based on a wiring diagram in the service manual. Conceptually not complicated but tapping those wires and routing all the other wires was a lot more work (and cleaner) than it was to get the lamps working with the manual PCM and is one of the reasons I went that route.

Post number 152 also points out the manual PCM wire terminal needed to get the cruise working. It ultimately goes to the upper switch on the clutch pedal (this one gets tripped as soon as you start to depress the clutch and its sole purpose is to "cancel" the cruise control - oddly, the cruse control does not work at all if this is not hooked up. You would think that it would work but just not cancel when you hit the clutch). The only way I can think of to get the cruse working with an auto PCM would be to wire up a switch to the wire that you have to ground to allow the car to start (pin number 13 ). Then, once it is started, you would turn this switch off and maybe then, the PCM wouldn't think it is in neutral and let you switch on cruise control. This is just a guess because without a proper gear sensor signal, I don't know what gear it is going to think it is in.
 

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I got my focus swapped and put back together I used a manual pcm with the wiring mods and now I'm trying to program the keys. I was wondering can the fdjs licence program push button start keys?
 

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I got my focus swapped and put back together I used a manual pcm with the wiring mods and now I'm trying to program the keys. I was wondering can the fdjs licence program push button start keys?
I would think so but mine are bladed keys so I'm not sure what the procedure is for that. Does it ask what kind of key you have?
 
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