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Only issue we still have is the PCM thinking it's in N, so max rpm is 3500. Tune should be sorted out by tuesday

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Got Mine Swapped and Running

Hello---I have gotten my swap done and with a lot of help from Tom Lesperen @ Focus Power, I have sorted out the electrical issues that I had and the "Hangar Queen" is running really nicely now. Sorry, I didn't take any photos of my swap since it took me most of the winter to get it done, but I will write up my experience now. I live in rural southwest Nebraska so I was really alone on this project except for the internet and this forum. I did a lot of research before attempting this and the original post on this thread showed me it could be done. I'm retired from the car business but my last line mechanicing was done in the 80's on VW's. I was mostly a parts guy.

List of the required:
MTX-75 (got mine out of a 2012 that had the mounts and slave clyinder with it)
Manual Trans Axles (got right and left used from same 2012 and got a new retaining clip for the left side)
Right Axle Support (new)
Dual Mass Flywheel (new-mine was early vin# so much more expensive)
Flywheel Bolts (6) (new and expensive, but you have to have them)
Pressure Plate and Disc (new)
Pressure Plate Bolts (new)
Shifter Assembly (need both upper and lower sections I got mine off of ebay and it didn't have the lower bracket but came with knob and boot)
Shift Cables (I got new. Be sure to get the little clip that holds thems together)
Pedal Assemblies (used off of ebay mine are st try to get the switches on both the clutch and brake pedals. If the clutch pedal does not come with the master clyinder Ford only sells a new one with a pedal. No problem. I researched and found and used one that fits a 2004 Mazda 3. Goes right in and has the correct hose connections. You'll need the bushing/pin for the brake pedal)
Manual Transmission Brake Fluid Reservior (new--need to have the extra little tube to feed the clutch master clyinder)
Clutch Hoses (new--It takes 3 and they are all push one connections which is nice)
Console Pins (new--the ones with the big heads on the front sides of the console. I can't see how to get them off without breaking them)
If you don't have one you will need a programming tool (I bought a SCT Tuner from Tom @ Focus Power) or access to one. I could never have done this without the tool and his help.
I'm sure I've left a few items out.

Labor
I used a Haynes Manual and a lot of internet searching. Removal is fairly straight forward. I don't have a tranny jack, so I made a wooden platform and mounted it on my standard floorjack. It worked well for both transmissions. Pedals are tough, at least for me, because the area is pretty tight, and I don't bend like I used to, but all of the studs and holes are there. Shift cables mounting under the console is very very tight. I did take the seats out and that really helped. Everything else is mostly swapping automatic stuff for manual stuff.

Electrical Mods
The only hardware mod I made was to wire up the clutch pedal position switch to provide a ground for wire #13 at the PCM so that the starter will engage only when the pedal is fully depressed. I didn't have to use the switch and could have just grounded the wire, but I chose to have the safety feature. This is where I made a mistake that caused me a lot of flustration. When I did the wire mod I removed the PCM and set it aside to locate the correct wire on the PCM connector. After doing the mod I failed to fully seat one of the two connectors on the PCM leading to the dreaded intermittent electrical fault. I didn't find this until after I started working with Tom and i could have saved us both a lot of grief by being sure of my work.

Intial Startup
Without having that connector fully seated, it would crank but no start. Finally when it did catch it was running very badly. Not what everyone else had experienced.

Tuning
The first tunes that we applied where not working right because of the connector problem. It would take the tunes, but of course they wouldn't work correctly. Once the problem was solved, the car started with the original stock tune. Nice idle and smooth. Would only rev to 3500, but I guess that is the same as Shade-010. Put in the last tune that Tom gave me and it is really nice now. Smooth and runs as it should. Without his help I would be dead.

Leftovers
There are a few items that are hanging around, but are not a worry to me.
The abs light is on, but i don't like abs anyway.
Gives a hill assist not available warning, but not too many hills here in our part of NE.
Little info light stays on, but I don't need to look at it.

I'm really glad that I took the plunge and did this. The dealer could not fix my DCT to my satisfaction. It was worse shortly after they did they seals and clutch cleaning. No shudder now and I can live with a few less MPG. Glad I remembered how to row my own oars after a lot of years with automatics. My cost was about $2,500 including the tune and the labor was really cheap. Hope this might help someone looking to do this---John M.
 

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John Thank you very much for your post, great write up on parts needed. I will be attempting this once the weather warms up a little bit as my wife's DCT trans is now displaying the message "transmission fault service now" on the dash so its just sitting until i get all of the required parts.

I still dont see why one cannot just grab a PCM from an MTX focus and swap it in instead of buying a SCT programmer and having to tune our stock computer.
 

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I'll have to correct John on the swap, as long as you use a Manual transmission engine harness and add the correct clutch pedal wiring to the system it will work, we also swapped in a manual PCM and now works flawlessly. I will do a full write up of our swap very soon

You DO NOT need a tune, to accomplish this swap

Our total swap costs were around 2500-2800.. had almost all parts in house including PCM.... will have another complete setup mid spring.

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Kudos to all for the efforts, takes pioneers to find out what works.

Harness & ECM might be the cleaner/better working answer now, first one was tried without even a trans from a MkIII (converted earlier one with a new shift tower).
 

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I'm in the process of the next ST swapped Sedan, I'll get our report done soon about the DCT to Manual swap

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we also swapped in a manual PCM and now works flawlessly.

You DO NOT need a tune, to accomplish this swap

I looked into this a little before doing my swap. I was under the impression that throwing in a M/T PCM would cause a VIN # mismatch between the PCM, BCM, and maybe other modules, causing issues. not the case?

I also though parts of the inst. cluster (PRND21, all the trans related messages) were controlled by the BCM, thus requiring that to be swapped with a M/T BCM as well.

How did it work out for you? you swapped your PCM only? do you still have the PRND21 displayed, or any DCT related messages?

Sure wish I had looked into this more! i would have preferred this over the tune...

Also, what happens now when your state inspector plugs into your DLC and it brings up a different VIN than whats on your VIN plate? Or are you not in a state blessed with emissions inspection BS?!

Thanks, Nate
 

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I looked into this a little before doing my swap. I was under the impression that throwing in a M/T PCM would cause a VIN # mismatch between the PCM, BCM, and maybe other modules, causing issues. not the case?

I also though parts of the inst. cluster (PRND21, all the trans related messages) were controlled by the BCM, thus requiring that to be swapped with a M/T BCM as well.

How did it work out for you? you swapped your PCM only? do you still have the PRND21 displayed, or any DCT related messages?

Sure wish I had looked into this more! i would have preferred this over the tune...

Also, what happens now when your state inspector plugs into your DLC and it brings up a different VIN than whats on your VIN plate? Or are you not in a state blessed with emissions inspection BS?!

Thanks, Nate
We swapped only the PCM, vin mismatch is not a problem as long as the pats system works correctly (key security). The P-1 still displays, but that should be able to be removed with foccus. No other codes are there.

When I did my ST swap VIN mismatch is inevitable. VIN stamped on car is the major one they look at.

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I'll have to correct John on the swap, as long as you use a Manual transmission engine harness and add the correct clutch pedal wiring to the system it will work, we also swapped in a manual PCM and now works flawlessly. I will do a full write up of our swap very soon

You DO NOT need a tune, to accomplish this swap

Our total swap costs were around 2500-2800.. had almost all parts in house including PCM.... will have another complete setup mid spring.

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Thanks for clearing this up. I figure it was the easier route if possible and less expensive too. I'll be grabbing the harness and PCM from a donor car and going that route instead. My goal is to go to a junkyard and in 1 day just pull EVERYTHING I need for the swap. Of course a select very few things may have be purchased new like the flywheel bolts as they are the stretch type. But my goal is to do this swap for less than $1500.
 

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Thanks for clearing this up. I figure it was the easier route if possible and less expensive too. I'll be grabbing the harness and PCM from a donor car and going that route instead. My goal is to go to a junkyard and in 1 day just pull EVERYTHING I need for the swap. Of course a select very few things may have be purchased new like the flywheel bolts as they are the stretch type. But my goal is to do this swap for less than $1500.
We swapped drivetrain as it was all out of my Sedan.. easiest way ;)

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Lots of Good Info for Everyone

It's great that you can do the harness and PCM install from a manual and have it work. I was already into using the SCT Tuner and working with Tom before Shade-010's posts. I would have done it that way as it probably would have been cheaper. I thought too that the PCM's were vin# specific and could only be changed by the dealer, who I didn't want to deal with. With more options a good final parts list and a tried and true labor procedure, it will make it a lot eaiser for folks down the line. Great info from everyone.
 

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You still have to goto dealer when swapping PCM, have to have 2 keys and do a parameter reset for it all to talk. (Using an IDS)

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In your research is there any difference in the MTX75 trannies, I wantr to put a LSD in my 2012 but the only diffs available are for the older model foci.
Kaaz makes one for the MTX75

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It's great that you can do the harness and PCM install from a manual and have it work. I was already into using the SCT Tuner and working with Tom before Shade-010's posts. I would have done it that way as it probably would have been cheaper. I thought too that the PCM's were vin# specific and could only be changed by the dealer, who I didn't want to deal with. With more options a good final parts list and a tried and true labor procedure, it will make it a lot eaiser for folks down the line. Great info from everyone.
It can be done either way , I know how to get it to rev past 3500 and it works good , Its not VIN matched but when you change the PCM you also have to tow your car to Ford $50-100.00 then pay to have the PATS reset $100-200.00 and a LOT more work to do the wiring and PCM change , It isnt an easy job
In the end a tune will help your performance and much more as well as free tune updates as you add more NA mods

There is pros and cons both ways each person has to read and choose what works best for them

Tom
 

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It can be done either way , I know how to get it to rev past 3500 and it works good , Its not VIN matched but when you change the PCM you also have to tow your car to Ford $50-100.00 then pay to have the PATS reset $100-200.00 and a LOT more work to do the wiring and PCM change , It isnt an easy job
In the end a tune will help your performance and much more as well as free tune updates as you add more NA mods

There is pros and cons both ways each person has to read and choose what works best for them

Tom
Pats reset $35.00-65.00.....at my local. But true pros and cons to both

But there is also the "RIGHT" way to do it

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What ever !?!?! Your definition isnt allways the right way , whats "RIGHT" to you doesnt mean its wrong for someone else

I called 5 random Ford dealers and the lowest was 100.00 and highest was 225.00 for a simple reflash out of warranty , I use to pay 65.00 before I bought a IDS

Tom
 

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[facepalm]

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how does the pcm/tcm swap play with the info-tainment system?
I really like the idea of having the nice Sony touch screen Titanium head unit AND the correct functioning and Fun transmission.

Thanks for the help and props to you guys. The DCT is pure garbage.
 
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