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Hey guys, there is a supercharger bolt on for the Duratec 2.0lt. Caterham in the UK use this engine with a supercharger for their open wheel car. I'm sure that we could get the super charger as a part and bolt it straight on.

Have a look at this link and open the specs Seven 620 R | Caterham Cars
Currently I don't have the funds or I would have a go at this for sure.
Enjoy.
Um. Holy [goofydrunk]
 

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Focus Addict
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Hey guys, there is a supercharger bolt on for the Duratec 2.0lt. Caterham in the UK use this engine with a supercharger for their open wheel car. I'm sure that we could get the super charger as a part and bolt it straight on.

Have a look at this link and open the specs Seven 620 R | Caterham Cars
Currently I don't have the funds or I would have a go at this for sure.
Enjoy.
The head/ intake manifolds don't match between the old Duratec 2.0L Port injected engine and the 2.0L GDI. You might be able to port to match, but that assumes there is enough material on the head to match.

It's not as easy as buying a supercharger for an older duratec and mounting it on to the engine.
 

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I just wanted to give a couple insights to the install when I did mine.

1) Getting the old manicat out is going to be the hardest part, getting the new header in is easy.

2) I used a penetrating lubricant on all on the nuts and bolts and let it sit overnight.

3) There are two bolts on the bottom of the manicat the bolt it to the mounting bracket that then mounts it to engine. Mine were difficult as hell to get undone. Make sure you have some higher quality sockets for the job. I broke 2 and a 1/4 ratchet. I ended up spraying the with the penetrating lube, tapping them with a hammer, and using a high quality 10mm 3/8" drive socket to get them undone.

4) I found removing the rear motor mount bolt and passanger side motor mount did not help me in this case. What did help is that after removing the window cowling (be careful as this will expose the windshile where you are going to be removing and install heavy steel, I wouldn't be surprised if someone cracks or chips their windshield), anyway after removing the cowling I removed the stock strut tower brace. It's super easy, three bolts on each side and two small nuts in the middle, plus one wiper motor bolt per side. However, when you remove the three bolts from each strut move the brace and put the bolts back in. This will keep the struts from moving. If they do move you can just jack up the car until that wheal is off the ground and move the strut back into position.

5) To get the manicat out I rotated it so it was parallel with the engine. ports towards the passenger side and exhaust flange toward the drive and pulled it out towards the passanger side. You'll want to pull it straight up and over the motor, but it's not going to work.

6) Items I found that helped everything go smoother;
ramps! I just drove the front of the car up the ramps which gave me plenty of room to work underneath. There's going to be a bit to do down there and you'll need the leverage.

Padded mechanics gloves! You're going to either smash your fingers, cut your hands, or have a wrench slip and punch the engine block on accident. Best habit I ever got into.

Penetrating liquid! Heat and water cause seized bolts! If they're super stubborn spray them and bang them a couple times with a hammer.

Torx bits! this car has a bunch of torx nuts! I just bought like a ten piece torx socket set and have used them a bunch so far from the seats to the felt underlining.

Time! In all honesty if I had all the proper tolls to start it probably would have taken maybe three hours to get the old manifold out and about 45 minutes to get the new one in. However all my tools are in Arizona, at least I can almost see a sears from where I live.

I can't think of anything else right now, but let me know if anyone has any questions!
 

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#dailydriven
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6,103 Posts
I just wanted to give a couple insights to the install when I did mine.

1) Getting the old manicat out is going to be the hardest part, getting the new header in is easy.

2) I used a penetrating lubricant on all on the nuts and bolts and let it sit overnight.

3) There are two bolts on the bottom of the manicat the bolt it to the mounting bracket that then mounts it to engine. Mine were difficult as hell to get undone. Make sure you have some higher quality sockets for the job. I broke 2 and a 1/4 ratchet. I ended up spraying the with the penetrating lube, tapping them with a hammer, and using a high quality 10mm 3/8" drive socket to get them undone.

4) I found removing the rear motor mount bolt and passanger side motor mount did not help me in this case. What did help is that after removing the window cowling (be careful as this will expose the windshile where you are going to be removing and install heavy steel, I wouldn't be surprised if someone cracks or chips their windshield), anyway after removing the cowling I removed the stock strut tower brace. It's super easy, three bolts on each side and two small nuts in the middle, plus one wiper motor bolt per side. However, when you remove the three bolts from each strut move the brace and put the bolts back in. This will keep the struts from moving. If they do move you can just jack up the car until that wheal is off the ground and move the strut back into position.

5) To get the manicat out I rotated it so it was parallel with the engine. ports towards the passenger side and exhaust flange toward the drive and pulled it out towards the passanger side. You'll want to pull it straight up and over the motor, but it's not going to work.

6) Items I found that helped everything go smoother;
ramps! I just drove the front of the car up the ramps which gave me plenty of room to work underneath. There's going to be a bit to do down there and you'll need the leverage.

Padded mechanics gloves! You're going to either smash your fingers, cut your hands, or have a wrench slip and punch the engine block on accident. Best habit I ever got into.

Penetrating liquid! Heat and water cause seized bolts! If they're super stubborn spray them and bang them a couple times with a hammer.

Torx bits! this car has a bunch of torx nuts! I just bought like a ten piece torx socket set and have used them a bunch so far from the seats to the felt underlining.

Time! In all honesty if I had all the proper tolls to start it probably would have taken maybe three hours to get the old manifold out and about 45 minutes to get the new one in. However all my tools are in Arizona, at least I can almost see a sears from where I live.

I can't think of anything else right now, but let me know if anyone has any questions!
Thanks for the info man, i'm sure this will help a lot of people!
 

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#dailydriven
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6,103 Posts
Nice, looking forward to seeing what numbers you put down.
 

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No dyno but car seems to pull quite a bit harder from 3500-7200. Below that it feels the same.

Engine sound through stock exhaust is slightly louder. Not loud enough that it sounds aftermarket but you can hear it.
Dude, that's cool! Where did you get your headers?

N6 chewin' on Nougat! ✌?
 

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236 Posts
Older thread, but how would you rate the DNA header? Ive got a chance for a good deal on one soon. Wondering if its worth picking up

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
 
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