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Justin and Duane, Do all of the gauge faces come with the light ring in the "middle" of the gauge or do I need to contact them for that? Just wondering because you both have it on yours, but his renders don't show them and Pennut's doesn't seem to have it either.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Justin and Duane, Do all of the gauge faces come with the light ring in the "middle" of the gauge or do I need to contact them for that? Just wondering because you both have it on yours, but his renders don't show them and Pennut's doesn't seem to have it either.
Those gauge faces are going to look funny on a BMW... [scratch]
 

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Edit: wrong thread
 

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[???:)]Anybody else's gauges do this?:

When I open my door or put my key in the ignition, my gauge needles will jump up a bit from the rest position. Then when I start my car they go to the position they should be at. [werd]

Then when I shut off the engine. Take the key out of the ignition, the gauges do the reverse, but not until the dome light times out and shuts off. Then the needles drop down to what I call a rest position.

You will see what I mean (that is if yours do the same thing) if you sit in the car (shut the door) and put your key in the ignition (don't start the car), the needles should move a bit. Then turn the key to the ACC and the needles should move to where they should be. Then take the key out of the ignition. Open the door. Close the door. Wait until about 30 secs after the dome light shuts off. Do the gauge needles drop down after that to what I call a "rest position"? Just wondering if it's some quirk of my gauges only? [???:)]
 

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How did you guys adjust your needles?!!!! I want to fix mine example. When there is no key in the Ignition everything is fine all of them are where they should be . But once I start to turn on my car. The rpm's are already at 1,000 and I'm just sitting in my driveway, my mph is 4 miles faster then I am actually going my gas gauge is completely messed up. And so is my tempt gauge anyone have any tips on how to get it back to normal !??


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Are the red ST needles interchangeable with the non-ST? If so would the installation require recalibration of the gauage needles? Im not a huge fan of the baby blue needles I have now.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
How did you guys adjust your needles?!!!! I want to fix mine example. When there is no key in the Ignition everything is fine all of them are where they should be . But once I start to turn on my car. The rpm's are already at 1,000 and I'm just sitting in my driveway, my mph is 4 miles faster then I am actually going my gas gauge is completely messed up. And so is my tempt gauge anyone have any tips on how to get it back to normal !??
Trial and error.

Are the red ST needles interchangeable with the non-ST? If so would the installation require recalibration of the gauage needles? Im not a huge fan of the baby blue needles I have now.
Yes and yes.
 

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Looks great!

I'd like one with 150mph as the 'top' reading instead of just a line (Like the 2012 Focus's, I think?). Dunno why, I just like that better, instead of 140 and a line following.
 

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How did you guys adjust your needles?!!!! I want to fix mine example. When there is no key in the Ignition everything is fine all of them are where they should be . But once I start to turn on my car. The rpm's are already at 1,000 and I'm just sitting in my driveway, my mph is 4 miles faster then I am actually going my gas gauge is completely messed up. And so is my tempt gauge anyone have any tips on how to get it back to normal !??


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To get it back to normal is going to be very hard. For RPM's you should find what most cars similar to yours idle at and adjust it. For fuel, maybe fill it up all the way and then adjust that the needle to F. For Temp, just wait until your car has been sitting for awhile and move it back to where it should be.

Like a previous poster said, a lot of trail and error.

This is the dangerous part of changing your gauges. I did mine on a previous car I had and used a marker to mark on the glass where the needles were at idle and at a low speed (I used like 20mph I think). I think lifted the needles straight up and when I put them back on put them straight down.

Then I adjusted the ones that needed it accordingly per idle and verified it going the same speed.

Not sure if this is the "right way" to do it, but it worked fine for me. However, the risk of screwing up your gauges is pretty high. A friend of mine had to get a whole new gauge set in his car. It's the reason I won't be doing this again. Just not worth it IMO.

But to each his own. If you have the patience and the time, more power to you friend!
 

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Go into the "secret menu" to see your actual RPM and Speed. Adjust them to that. It's easier if you set your cruise to something before hand, like say 40, and then write down what your RPM are at that speed. Then when you go back to adjust them, set the cruise back to 40 and you should know where the RPM should be. You probably need a passenger to help with all this. It's not safe to do yourself.

Coolant you can make a mark, it always goes to the same spot when warm. Fill up your gas tank, and make a mark for that as well.
 

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DO NOT fill your tank when adjusting the gas gauge. When the tank is full (full, as in when you fill the tank at the pump until the pump clicks off), the needle goes past the full mark.

Some ways to adjust the needles if you messed up:

To test the speed, set your cruise control (the Mph/KMh) will show) and drive on a flat stretch of road and then you can compare speed to actual indicated.

Fuel gauge - if you know it is off, you can wait until the orange fuel low light comes on (on a level road) and then you will know it is at 1/8th tank.

Coolant - When fully warmed up, the needle should be right in the middle of the gauge.

RPMs ... well that's a bit tricky if you don't have something like a Scangauge. But at idle, when warmed up should be around 750 rpms. That's why I suggest before you remove your gauges for the 1st time, you let the car warm up and take note of the RPM's with the car in park at idle.
 

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DO NOT fill your tank when adjusting the gas gauge. When the tank is full (full, as in when you fill the tank at the pump until the pump clicks off), the needle goes past the full mark.

Some ways to adjust the needles if you messed up:

To test the speed, set your cruise control (the Mph/KMh) will show) and drive on a flat stretch of road and then you can compare speed to actual indicated.

Fuel gauge - if you know it is off, you can wait until the orange fuel low light comes on (on a level road) and then you will know it is at 1/8th tank.

Coolant - When fully warmed up, the needle should be right in the middle of the gauge.

RPMs ... well that's a bit tricky if you don't have something like a Scangauge. But at idle, when warmed up should be around 750 rpms. That's why I suggest before you remove your gauges for the 1st time, you let the car warm up and take note of the RPM's with the car in park at idle.
I did it this way and had no problem with it. But that's just me. I'm not sure needles really go past F though, at least the ones in my Jeep, Firebird, and Focus don't.

They do however stay at F longer, but that's designed that way and controlled by the car. They stay at F longer so you'll think you get better fuel mileage, then when it gets to a certain point the needles moves quicker.
 
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