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Anyone living in the northern States, and Canada should be using a full synthetic oil. Especially for the winter season!!! Easier starts, and no need to ever plug the car in.
 

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I just had my oil done at Blackstone and after 6,000 miles on regular Castrol 5-20 (semi-synth) they said it would have gone more. They said I would be good to follow the OLM. I used Mobile 1 at the change and I'm going to run it till it tells me to change. At 6k I was down a little between the hash marks but not enough to add some. I'm old school on oil changes so it might be a challenge waiting for the monitor to come on.
 

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guys, quick question, anyone here having problems closing their hood? Mine opens up fine, but when I lower the hood so that it touches the latch and try to push it down it doesn't close, or when I try to slam it down. I go inside the card, move the lever as if I am opening the hood and I slam in again in one single motion and the hood closes. Any feedback?
 

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guys, quick question, anyone here having problems closing their hood? Mine opens up fine, but when I lower the hood so that it touches the latch and try to push it down it doesn't close, or when I try to slam it down. I go inside the card, move the lever as if I am opening the hood and I slam in again in one single motion and the hood closes. Any feedback?
I have to slam mine. Being gentle with it, allowing it to lay in the latch, then pushing it down.....that never works. I have to drop it hard.
 

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I am on my way to Ford dealership. This doesn't seem right.
That doesn't bother me, as there could be much worse issues I could have with this car.....like the rattling in the headliner I get.
 

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I am on my way to Ford dealership. This doesn't seem right.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using FF Mobile
Chances are, the rubber hood bumpers are a bit too tight. They are on either side of the latch. You could try screwing them in 1/4-1/2 turn (clockwise).
 

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That doesn't bother me, as there could be much worse issues I could have with this car.....like the rattling in the headliner I get.

thank God I don't have any rattling. That would drive me nuts. The car is performing well.




Chances are, the rubber hood bumpers are a bit too tight. They are on either side of the latch. You could try screwing them in 1/4-1/2 turn (clockwise).

It turns out that nothie is wrong with the hood/latch. You can't push in the bumper gently. This is by design to avoid bending the hood. So you havr to have a small drop to get it closed.

Since this i the oil thread and I hate 5w-20 as it's like using water, I've asked thr service advisor about using 5w-30, of course I told him that this is government nonsense, and he got the master mechanic to come out and talk to me. It turns out that 5w-30 is hands down better oil and it's better for your engine. So dealership will use 5w-30. The only thing where you would use the 5w-20 is if you are one of those goofs who starts the car and floors it right away lol, that was his exact comment. I always warm up the car, 5 min minimum or drive slow for a bit until the engine is fully warmed up and lubricated.

Thank you guys for replying.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2
 

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thank God I don't have any rattling. That would drive me nuts. The car is performing well.







It turns out that nothie is wrong with the hood/latch. You can't push in the bumper gently. This is by design to avoid bending the hood. So you havr to have a small drop to get it closed.

Since this i the oil thread and I hate 5w-20 as it's like using water, I've asked thr service advisor about using 5w-30, of course I told him that this is government nonsense, and he got the master mechanic to come out and talk to me. It turns out that 5w-30 is hands down better oil and it's better for your engine. So dealership will use 5w-30. The only thing where you would use the 5w-20 is if you are one of those goofs who starts the car and floors it right away lol, that was his exact comment. I always warm up the car, 5 min minimum or drive slow for a bit until the engine is fully warmed up and lubricated.

Thank you guys for replying.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using FF Mobile
My '03 Focus wagon with 178k on it saw nothing but Castrol 5w-20 and it's still running. I'm not saying 5-30 is bad, I'm just saying.
 

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Unleashed, sorry if I missed it, have you weighed in on the 5w-20 -v- 5w-30 preference for our foci?
In high performance Ford modular engines, where modification is common to increase horsepower, I always encourage owners to increase to true synthetic 30 grade lubricant.

In the Focus, I'm not as concerned since this is a grocery getter daily driver that rarely ever sees wide open throttle. Currently, I am using Amsoil Signature Series 5W-20. Next time I plan to try Amsoil AZO 0W-30, just for comparison sake. Since I track all mpg on www.fuelly.com, there should be a lot of comparisons to be made between performance, efficiency, lubricant status by UOA at the end of the sessions, and overall sound/feel/experience.

There is only a 1.5 cSt difference between both lubricants. In lubricant world, that isn't much.

If I were using a small engine like this on a road course, it would have Amsoil ATM 10W-30 in it.
 

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Unleashed, thanks for the reply, and the the empirical steadfastness you have applied to this subject. I'm sure you'll post your findings as they become available.
 

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Do the 2012/2013's call for synthetic blend?
That is what ford is using as standard oil in their cars now...so I assume so.
You could use conventional, but at a lesser oil change interval. I barely trust a syn-blend at 10,000 miles....so that would be a no go for conventional. Hence, why you would have to decrease the change interval. IMO, it's not worth the money savings.

I also prefer using lubricants with super low NOACK volatility. Conventional, Syn blends, and hydrocracked petroleum do not. Only true synthetics with PAO and Ester base stocks do. *and the new GTL base stocks, although I'm still waiting on hardcore proof of the NOACK claim*

GTL base stocks would have to be extremely pure to achieve that.
 

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Do the 2012/2013's call for synthetic blend?
Ford's specifies oil that meets their WSSxxx945 standard. Virtually every current 5w/20, whether synthetic, blend or conventional, meets this standard. Ford doesn't specify a different oil change interval for synthetic vs conventional oil, so going up to 10,000 miles/1 year on conventional would meet Ford's warranty requirement. Not that I would necessarily recommend going that far.
 

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I agree with dan50....would definitely recommend a UOA test to confirm conventional ability to survive a 10,000 mile oil change interval.

I would love to see that test, however....the test would cost about the same as a full conventional oil change. Other than for scientific purposes, it's not really worth it.
 

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No one using K&N Oil filters? I been using them for years, very quality filters.
I have seen some bench tests on other brands where they cut the filters in half to see whats inside... most like fram and puralator were junk.
I was thinkng the same thing. I use the K&N filter on all my vehicles with Mobil-1 Synthetic.
 
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