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yes, basically synthetic blend provides better engine wear protection ,better start-up protection ,longer life less breakdown of oil compared to conventional oils
 

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Good to know my low oil light works. I had my last oil change done at the dealership (free maintenance plan) and I was getting the low oil light when braking and turning right. I checked my dipstick and it was low (no leaking from the filter or plug).

Those dealerships... always keeping me on my toes.
 

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That Guy
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Good to know my low oil light works. I had my last oil change done at the dealership (free maintenance plan) and I was getting the low oil light when braking and turning right. I checked my dipstick and it was low (no leaking from the filter or plug).

Those dealerships... always keeping me on my toes.
I pop the hood and check before I even pull out of the parking spot. I don't care whether they get pissed at seeing it or not, I hear too many stories like this.
 

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I pop the hood and check before I even pull out of the parking spot. I don't care whether they get pissed at seeing it or not, I hear too many stories like this.
I guess I just thought the workers at the dealership knew how to put the right amount of oil in an engine. Clearly, I was wrong. I know it was free, but I'd rather it be done correctly (Read: I need to do it myself. [wrenchin])
 

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Discussion Starter #145
Sorry, I forgot to ask one question: Is there a big difference between the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend versus let's say conventional 5W-20 oil?
Under normal driving conditions, I'd say the biggest difference is how often you change the oil. I can't quote any fancy scientific research but synthetics won't break down as fast as conventional. My recommendation is to change the oil sooner with conventional. Conventional @ 3,000, Blend @ 5,000 and Full Synthetic @ 7,500 to 10,000.

If you live in an area of extremes (high heat, dirt, cold), synthetics in my opinion will protect better and require fewer changes. I'm sure others will offer their opinions soon.
 

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I live in moderate temperatures, so no extremes. I guess my real question would be is it OK if I'm going to use conventional oil and not the Motocraft Synthetic Blend or full synthetic. My odometer is still reading 755 kms. Should I just bring it to the dealership and do a full synthetic?
 

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I live in moderate temperatures, so no extremes. I guess my real question would be is it OK if I'm going to use conventional oil and not the Motocraft Synthetic Blend or full synthetic. My odometer is still reading 755 kms. Should I just bring it to the dealership and do a full synthetic?
I wouldn't recommend using conventional oil in this engine unless you're planning on changing it every 3000 miles or less, even the motorcraft semi-synthetic 5w20 is generally considered better than this, but if you want to use conventional oil make sure it meets the requirements listed by Ford, or any issues you have with the engine due to oiling won't be covered by the warranty.
 

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-----<M>-----
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My recommendation is to change the oil sooner with conventional. Conventional @ 3,000, Blend @ 5,000 and Full Synthetic @ 7,500 to 10,000.
I wouldn't recommend using conventional oil in this engine unless you're planning on changing it every 3000 miles or less, even the motorcraft semi-synthetic 5w20 is generally considered better than this, but if you want to use conventional oil make sure it meets the requirements listed by Ford, or any issues you have with the engine due to oiling won't be covered by the warranty.
This is all way too conservative, backed up by hard data. I ran plain old Pennzoil conventional for 5k miles, ran a Blackstone report and it had plenty of life in it. Could've run it to 7k to 8k miles. I have MC Synth Blend now and plan to run it to 8k.

Another poster said he ran a Blackstone report on his factory fill at 10k miles and it was not completely worn out yet.
 

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I live in moderate temperatures, so no extremes. I guess my real question would be is it OK if I'm going to use conventional oil and not the Motocraft Synthetic Blend or full synthetic. My odometer is still reading 755 kms. Should I just bring it to the dealership and do a full synthetic?
I would not drop below what the manufacturer used from the factory - since they used semi-synthetic, use at least semi-synthetic.
 

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I think the only time I would ever drop to Dino oil was if the car was a dedicated racer and I was changing it between every event and was running a single weight.
 

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-----<M>-----
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I live in moderate temperatures, so no extremes. I guess my real question would be is it OK if I'm going to use conventional oil and not the Motocraft Synthetic Blend or full synthetic. My odometer is still reading 755 kms. Should I just bring it to the dealership and do a full synthetic?
I'm proof that regular conventional is fine. Here's my Blackstone report with conventional.


 

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Ford Fiend
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I'm proof that regular conventional is fine. Here's my Blackstone report with conventional.
I agree that it's a clean bill of health, but it's not proof that you can use dino oil for recommended change intervals.
 

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I agree that it's a clean bill of health, but it's not proof that you can use dino oil for recommended change intervals.
No but I wouldn't run any oil to 10k myself. And the Ford manual says you can use dino as long as it meets the Ford spec.
 

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No but I wouldn't run any oil to 10k myself.
You could run Pennzoil yellow bottle to 10k, but it would have been spent when you changed it. Not worth the risk to me, as that lubricant wasn't formulated to run that long.

Saying that you would never run ANY lubricant that long means that you have no experience with superior formulations. The sample of Amsoil ATM 10W-30 below was used in a Lincoln Town Car 4.6L 2V engine for just over 10,000 miles (1 year interval).....and it was wasted when it was dumped. This oil had just as much, if not more life left in it than your sample of Pennzoil at only 5,000 miles. Calcium content is a big key to this. *TBN numbers are not linear to miles of use*

 

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I think the only time I would ever drop to Dino oil was if the car was a dedicated racer and I was changing it between every event and was running a single weight.
I wouldn't even use it then.

Petroleum based lubricants have a higher frictional coefficient. Translation, higher fiction means less power, less efficiency, and higher engine temperatures. Racers have seen engine coolant temps decrease as much as 15*F from stepping up to true synthetic racing lubricants. They also see far less wear on the mains and rod bearings on engine tear downs.
 

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Knew what was coming?
 

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That any recommended use of dino oils for any reason would be refuted.
Not refuted, as they serve their purpose. I just simply stated the benefits of a true synthetic formulation in a race car, and why I would not chose a dino lubricant.

Friction and heat is the enemy.

 
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