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how is that not accurate? if the guy is too lazy to read through a very detailed how to or if he did read through it and still can't figure it out then his best bet is to leave it alone before he does damage to his car...sometimes the truth hurts but needs to be said.
 

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I just picked up my 2012 Ti HB on Friday and am sizing up the oil change task but I have a question.

I don't have a garage with lift so I'd need to change the oil/filter without the aid of a lift and I don't think I'm going to be able to handle this task without lifting the front end enough to crawl under. Now, the problem is, if you lift the front up, and I'm thinking of using ramps to lift both front wheels about 8 inches, the car will be unlevel so how would that effect the oil draining? That is, with the nose up in this way will I be able to completely drain the oil?

I've looked through this thread and there's some pictures on about page 3 that seem to show the filter is to the front and the drain plug is to the rear and if that's true then lifting the front end would actually be better for draining -- is my observation correct with the filter to the front and the drain plug to the rear?


Brian
My driveway is on a pretty good incline, so what i do is put the ramps on the incline (facing downward), and prop my car up on them. At that point the car is sitting fairly level and i have tons of room to get under it. I'm sure its not necessary, but I do it anyway because its easier than pulling the falcon out of our garage in order to use the only flat surface available (it takes about 30 minutes to move our falcon out, about 25 minutes of which are spent peeling out in front of the house and ripping around town, haha).
 

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Just what I was wondering. How hard it was to change the oil and filter. :)
Check out the instructions earlier in the thread. Aside from the felt aero cover under the powertrain which is admittedly a slight pain in the ass, it's the easiest oil change you'll ever do.
 

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Discussion Starter #124
Just what I was wondering. How hard it was to change the oil and filter. :)
You're welcome PKII332.

I'm glad the original instructions answered your question. ;)
 

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^^ if you have to ask that question after 10 pages and all the how to's and tips in here you have no business doing your own oil changes, take it to the dealer.
It wasn't a question. It what I was thinking to myself before I seen the answer. Gee whiz. Unfriendly people in here. [???:)]
 

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I did my second oil change this past weekend and after draining the oil I attempted to install a quick drain valve instead of putting the OEM plug back in, but as I was threading it on it was hitting a bump in the case so I couldn't screw the valve all the way on. So, I had to put the OEM plug back in. It looks like I need a kind of stand-off extension about 3/4 inch or so.

Anyway, after changing the oil (Mobil-1 5W-20) I rotated the tires for a second time as well. Car just past 10K miles and I'm averaging a bit over 37mpg for the entire 10K miles...


Brian
 

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I did my second oil change this past weekend and after draining the oil I attempted to install a quick drain valve instead of putting the OEM plug back in, but as I was threading it on it was hitting a bump in the case so I couldn't screw the valve all the way on. So, I had to put the OEM plug back in. It looks like I need a kind of stand-off extension about 3/4 inch or so.

Anyway, after changing the oil (Mobil-1 5W-20) I rotated the tires for a second time as well. Car just past 10K miles and I'm averaging a bit over 37mpg for the entire 10K miles...


Brian
HI Brian,

Ca you please provide the link to the product that you were trying to use that didn't fit? There are several companies that make this product and I would like to get this quick drain plug as well, just want to make sure that it works.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 

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I did my second oil change this past weekend and after draining the oil I attempted to install a quick drain valve instead of putting the OEM plug back in, but as I was threading it on it was hitting a bump in the case so I couldn't screw the valve all the way on. So, I had to put the OEM plug back in. It looks like I need a kind of stand-off extension about 3/4 inch or so.
Brian,

If you bought the Fumoto valve (F-107 or F-107N), you will need the ADP-107 adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-Valve-Adapter-ADP-107/dp/B0043QWVOK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1ZBYU4KDDAAZD&coliid=I1YKCXNGBOJW6P
 

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HI Brian,

Ca you please provide the link to the product that you were trying to use that didn't fit? There are several companies that make this product and I would like to get this quick drain plug as well, just want to make sure that it works.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using FF Mobile 2

I'll have to double check but I do think it is the Fumoto valve. The adapter looks about right to me. I'll double check and let you know. Of course, now that I've just changed the oil I won't need it for another 3-4 months...


Brian
 

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Great to see a filter in the vertical position! Who'd a thunk it? Great design and about time.
It's a crappy design compared to my old BMW. It's filter was under the hood with a cannister element. There's no oil in it when you change it, so at worst a few drops might fall out if you're not careful.
 

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great instructions, does anyone know if there are any grease fittings on car? didn't see or feel any when i did break-in oil change . thanks
 

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Just did my first oil change on the 2012 Focus. Thought I'd help those who haven't done it yet.

What you'll need: 15mm wrench, T30 torx, 1.25 gallons of 5W-20 Oil, Oil Filter ( FL-910S )




Raise the car. I used a floor jack at the front driver jack point (see manual), then braced with a jack stand to prevent getting killed. I think ramps would be easier.


Remove the felt panel by removing the 8 torx bolts. If you remove the bolt shown at the red arrow last (front center of car), the panel will stay up nicely. Supported by the notches shown with the yellow arrows.
Don't bother considering cutting a hole in the felt panel to get access to the oil filter. You'll need to remove the panel to get to the drain plug anyway. It comes off easy enough.




Change the oil filter and drain the oil. I didn't need an oil filter wrench because the oil filter is VERY accessible and could grab it with two hands. When replacing the filter, wet the rubber gasket on the new filter with oil, wipe away any dirt on the gasket surface of the engine and screw the new filter in until it touches the gasket surface. THEN screw by hand 3/4 of a turn more. Don't forget to put the drain plug back in (20 ft/lbs per Ford shop manual - Oil pan drain plug/Part# 6730/ Torque 27 Nm (20 lb-ft)).




Put 4 quarts of oil in, start the engine and check for leaks. Do this before lowering the car. 4 quarts will fill it enough to measure halfway between the two holes on the dipstick. If you want to avoid some of the start-up clatter, crank the engine for a few seconds with the accelerator floored. Gas is shut off when you do this but the oil pump should fill the filter. After making sure you have no leaks, replace the felt panel, lower the car and top off the oil. Mine took exactly 4.5 quarts to reach the top of the hash marks on the dipstick.



Resetting the oil life monitoring system
1. Turn the ignition key to the on position. Do not start the engine.
For vehicles with push-button start, press and hold the START/STOP
button for two seconds without pressing the brake pedal. Do not attempt
to start the engine.
2. Press both the accelerator and brake pedals at the same time.
3. Keep both pedals fully pressed.
4. After three seconds, the Service: Oil reset in prog. message will be
displayed.
5. After 25 seconds, the Service: Oil reset complete message will be
displayed.
6. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.
7. The Service: Oil reset complete message will no longer be
displayed.
8. Rotate the key to the off position.
For vehicles with push-button start, press the START/STOP button to
turn the vehicle off completely.

As of 2/20/2012...
5qts. Motorcraft 5w-20 Synthetic Blend - 21.99
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_5W-20-Synthetic-Blend-Motor-Oil-Motorcraft_8030012-P_N3291M_T|GRP2046_____
18.33 at Walmart
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Motorcraft-Synthetic-Blend-Motor-Oil-5W20-5qt/16940217

5qts. Mobil1 5W-20 Synthetic - 36.99
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_5W-20-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-%285-Plus-Quarts-Jug%29-Mobil1_10069913-P_N4019G_T|GRP2046_____

FL-910S oil filter - 3.97 at Walmart
Since there's no "Thanks" button I just wanted to give a big thanks!
 

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Sorry, I forgot to ask one question: Is there a big difference between the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend versus let's say conventional 5W-20 oil?
 
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