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jbird1955;3947717 One other item is to make sure the old gasket came off with the old filter. I had that happen to me once many moons ago. Joe[/QUOTE said:
+1!!!!! I missed that on my first new motorcycle and the results were a BAD! Life lesson learned when the original seal gets stuck on.
 

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First oil change today,,, at 2185 miles,,,,, because I wanted to. Went with Valvoline Synthetic. Had a good shake down trip to Michigan and back for 1200+ miles. Removing the felt panel was a breeze, the pan and filter very easy to reach with the help of a couple ramps. Registered with Valvoline for their 300,000 mile engine guarantee,,,, just to see how that goes, just in case. I like to keep a car a long time!! We will see.
Appreciate this thread for the info to get me started.
pv
 

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For a CYA make sure it meets the Ford spec in your owners manual. Otherwise Ford might try to weasel out of a future warranty claim.

Also wanted to re-iterate that my car also had the spoiler lip thing that has to be removed before the splash shield can be removed. Three screws, and they are a different size than the splash shield screws. The heads are all T30 but they are a different length.
 

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I just picked up my 2012 Ti HB on Friday and am sizing up the oil change task but I have a question.

I don't have a garage with lift so I'd need to change the oil/filter without the aid of a lift and I don't think I'm going to be able to handle this task without lifting the front end enough to crawl under. Now, the problem is, if you lift the front up, and I'm thinking of using ramps to lift both front wheels about 8 inches, the car will be unlevel so how would that effect the oil draining? That is, with the nose up in this way will I be able to completely drain the oil?

I've looked through this thread and there's some pictures on about page 3 that seem to show the filter is to the front and the drain plug is to the rear and if that's true then lifting the front end would actually be better for draining -- is my observation correct with the filter to the front and the drain plug to the rear?


Brian
 

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^^+1 would like to know this too.
 

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Yes ... Lifting the front end is fine. Drain hole is to the rear a filter is forward. I used ramps and all seemed to work just fine.
 

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Sonic Mk3 Crew #08
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Yes ... Lifting the front end is fine. Drain hole is to the rear a filter is forward. I used ramps and all seemed to work just fine.
Thanks man.[headbang]
 

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I used Rhino Ramps. I could fit under, but just barely. It's a very tight fit considering you have to manipulate tools. I can't imagine a creeper would fit.

Also a warning about the filter - a LOT of oil comes out when you remove it. Have the drain pain underneath. My previous cars dripped hardly any oil from the filter and I was caught off-guard and it made a huge mess.
 

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Pig4bill,
Yep, it's just enough room. But I used a creeper and I weigh 240. Perhaps it's the dip in my garage floor? Anyway, there is room to reach. You are right, the oil filter pukes a good bit of oil.....also, before that, when you let the drain plug loose it shoots rearward quite a bit so be ware.
pvial[ffrocks]
 

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You guys are whimps. I did the oil change without lifting it - no ramps or anything. It was totally fine. The rear center screw of the felt cover was a little challenging to reach but no biggie.
 

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You guys are whimps. I did the oil change without lifting it - no ramps or anything. It was totally fine. The rear center screw of the felt cover was a little challenging to reach but no biggie.
That's impressive. You must be a thin guy. :) I had a tough time even with the front driver's wheel lifted an inch off the floor.
 

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That's impressive. You must be a thin guy. :) I had a tough time even with the front driver's wheel lifted an inch off the floor.
Ha, not particularly. I just lay my head on the floor and under the car as far as I can, then reach as far as I can and I got everything. Then I go pop a couple of Motrin... [wrenchin]
 

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I did my first oil change last Friday at 2866 miles. I used the ramps and that worked pretty good. Used Mobil-1 5W-20 and the Motor craft filter. Total time about 25 minutes -- not bad for the first time.

I used a 5-quart jug bought at Wally world for $27 but eyeballed how much to put in. I have a hard time seeing the correct level on the dipstick with new oil and it was a couple days before I was able to get a good read on it -- it was dead center between the marks.


Brian

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Ha, not particularly. I just lay my head on the floor and under the car as far as I can, then reach as far as I can and I got everything. Then I go pop a couple of Motrin... [wrenchin]
Haha

I did my first oil change last Friday at 2866 miles. I used the ramps and that worked pretty good. Used Mobil-1 5W-20 and the Motor craft filter. Total time about 25 minutes -- not bad for the first time.

I used a 5-quart jug bought at Wally world for $27 but eyeballed how much to put in. I have a hard time seeing the correct level on the dipstick with new oil and it was a couple days before I was able to get a good read on it -- it was dead center between the marks.
Cool--what ramps did you use?

Yah this engine takes quite a long time to run the oil down from the filler hole into the drain pan for whatever. It's easy to overfill, and it looks low for a very long time after you stop the engine. 4.5 qt will have you below the top of the crosshatch but the full 5 qt will put you well over it.

(The old 3.0L vulcan was rated for 4.5 qt, but 5 qt put that engine perfectly at the top of the crosshatch.)
 

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There were two different plastic ramps at Autozone and I picked up the cheaper ones -- was about $45 if I remember correctly. I chose the cheaper plastic ones because in addition to the 10,000 pound rating the FF is one of the lighter cars around so I don't feel too concerned.

For me, the hardest thing about seeing the oil level after changing the oil is that the new oil is so clean it's really hard for me to get an accurate reading of where the oil level is. I mean, pulling the dip stick out and putting it back in leaves a coating along the tube and when you pull it out that oil get all over the stick so it's hard to see what the level is with all the other oil on the stick.

What they should have on the stick is a couple of metal bands, one above and one below the oil range so that portion of the stick can't contact the tube and screw up the reading.


Brian
 

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Just what I was wondering.... "How hard it was to change the oil and filter." (To clarify I was thinking this BEFORE I came to this Forum I can read and understand and I will never take my car to a dealer for a oil change)
 

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^^ if you have to ask that question after 10 pages and all the how to's and tips in here you have no business doing your own oil changes, take it to the dealer.
 
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