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Ford mechanic feedback...

"Per shop manual the spec is 20 ft lbs. Sounds high to me I would think 10 -15lbs would be better"

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Hmmm, well I guess now I'll get out my torque wrench next oil change and see if I've been doing it right all these years!
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Hmmm, well I guess now I'll get out my torque wrench next oil change and see if I've been doing it right all these years!
Me too! [;)]
 

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Resetting the oil life monitoring system
1. Turn the ignition key to the on position. Do not start the engine.
For vehicles with push-button start, press and hold the START/STOP
button for two seconds without pressing the brake pedal. Do not attempt
to start the engine.
2. Press both the accelerator and brake pedals at the same time.
3. Keep both pedals fully pressed.
4. After three seconds, the Service: Oil reset in prog. message will be
displayed.
5. After 25 seconds, the Service: Oil reset complete message will be
displayed.
6. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.
7. The Service: Oil reset complete message will no longer be
displayed.
8. Rotate the key to the off position.
For vehicles with push-button start, press the START/STOP button to
turn the vehicle off completely.



WOW!!! [80?]
Here's how to reset the oil life monitor on my Chevy:
1. Depress "RESET" button, and hold for 5 seconds.
2. Done

Wonder why Mother Ford makes it so involved??? [scratch]
 

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WOW!!! [80?]
Here's how to reset the oil life monitor on my Chevy:
1. Depress "RESET" button, and hold for 5 seconds.
2. Done

Wonder why Mother Ford makes it so involved??? [scratch]
The GM ignition has to be in the "on" position too, so the difference is holding a single button (which on my GM required removing an access panel) versus holding down the brake and accelerator pedals. We Focus owners are a hardy lot; I think we can handle it.
 

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Does it matter if the Service Oil light is on to be able to reset it? I mean, can you change oil earlier and still reset the light.
 

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Does it matter if the Service Oil light is on to be able to reset it? I mean, can you change oil earlier and still reset the light.
You can reset it whenever you wish and the Oil Life Montior starts to count to the next needed change from that point.
 

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Wales!!
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just want to say that quicklane uses the same oil filter and oil, and including labor for coupon price $24.99. way cheaper and less hassle than doing it yourself. also dont have to get rid of the crap oil too
I will NEVER use a "quickie" oil change place again. Their quality of work sucks. Their knowledge of the vehicle and simple mechanical knowledge is severely lacking. Those places have made one too many SIMPLE yet potentially damaging mistakes for me to ever go back.
 

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just want to say that quicklane uses the same oil filter and oil, and including labor for coupon price $24.99. way cheaper and less hassle than doing it yourself. also dont have to get rid of the crap oil too
How is it way cheaper? It's like $17 for a 5-qt jug at Walmart and around $7 for the filter. A little less than the coupon price you quoted and you know exactly what's going in your engine and that it's getting done right. I do both my cars at the same time and then drive 2 miles to Advance Auto Parts to dump the oil. I do it myself after the last time I went to a jiffy lube, they dumped oil all over the top of the engine which took miles to burn off...
 

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While it doesn't matter much, I remove the oil filter first. Then I can install the new filter while the crankcase drains.

Once the engine has run for a minute or so, rev it to around 2,000 RPMs for a few seconds. This will build oil pressure to near its maximum level and may identify leaks that wouldn't occur at idle.

I don't preload the filter because it's messy and it introduces a batch of unfiltered oil into the engine. If you want to avoid some of the start-up clatter crank the engine for a few seconds with the accelerator floored. Gas is shut off when you do this but the oil pump should fill the filter.

Changing your own oil shouldn't jeopardize your warranty but make sure you keep receipts for oil and filter and record date and mileage. To be extra careful, take a picture of the oil, filter and receipt and email them to yourself. This is harder to lose and also gives evidence you used oil that meets Ford's specs (WSS...945 - see owner's manual).
lol whatttttttttt [scratch]
 

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I will NEVER use a "quickie" oil change place again. Their quality of work sucks. Their knowledge of the vehicle and simple mechanical knowledge is severely lacking. Those places have made one too many SIMPLE yet potentially damaging mistakes for me to ever go back.
THIS +100000!

Plus how much is your time worth? True, they have the express lane but you are still going to be there for at least an hour, probably more and you are at their mercy whereas if you do it yourself you are on your schedule.

I had the oil changed at 1K on my mustang to have the break in oil removed at the dealership where I bought it; you would think the dealership of all people would know how much oil should go in a mustang and take a wild guess of who put 2 qts too much oil in my car? Yep, you got it!

I would much rather possibly pay a couple of bucks more to know it was done right, done when I wanted to do it and if something was done wrong only having to look in the mirror to figure out who done it.
 

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Thanks for the heads up on the wrench size and the T30. Using my drill to deal with the 8 screws, I probably had this done in 15 minutes flat.

Advance auto parts was doing the 5qt mobil one and filter for $32.99 so I hopped on it and knocked this out at 1512 miles. [headbang]
 

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lol whatttttttttt [scratch]
You mean the messy part? Oh, probably the unfiltered oil part. Well, the area where you'd pour oil into the filter is where oil exits to the engine. So, the oil you pour in hits the engine without the edit of filtration. This probably doesn't matter, but manufacturing is imperfect and people have a way of knocking things into open containers, so bad stuff could get in there. A bit of sand could do bad things to a bearing...

Again, unlikely but not impossible.
 

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>>>That felt thing is the stupidest feature ever.

It's actually a pretty amazing piece of engineering. It's been on high priced cars for years . . . neat to see Ford deploy it on the Focus.

The first time it took me perhaps 5 minutes, finding the right bit and so forth. The 2nd oil change the felt was gone in less than 60 seconds.

It's nice to see American engineering at work.
 

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>>>That felt thing is the stupidest feature ever.

It's actually a pretty amazing piece of engineering. It's been on high priced cars for years . . . neat to see Ford deploy it on the Focus.

The first time it took me perhaps 5 minutes, finding the right bit and so forth. The 2nd oil change the felt was gone in less than 60 seconds.

It's nice to see American engineering at work.

I agree. The felt is a very clever solution. My VW Eurovan used a steel screen that weighed a ton and was a real mess to remove and replace. The felt does the aerodynamics job and is lightweight. We'll see how durable it is.
 

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My Subie had a heavy plastic windage tray under the engine. The question I have is (slightly off topic)... Could you replace the felt with an APR diffuser? Is the bottom of the bumper flat enough?
 

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My Subie had a heavy plastic windage tray under the engine. The question I have is (slightly off topic)... Could you replace the felt with an APR diffuser? Is the bottom of the bumper flat enough?
The felt doesn't go all the way to the front of the car. There's a plastic piece from the radiator to the bumper cover that isn't removed when you do the oil change. It's fairly flat. Check this post for a visual of the part...
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3855039&postcount=19
 
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