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What difference does it make if it starts or not? Its going to take the same number of cranks to get the oil circulating whether the engine starts or not. In fact, I would think that after cranking without starting and not letting it build up pressure, the oil has a chance to drain back out of the pump, while waiting to actually start it.
Just crank it up for crying out loud. It'll prime right up, build pressure and be fine!
I think the idea is to have those cranks occur under low-stress conditions. The amount of force exerted on a crankshaft bearing at, say 100 rpm is going to be a small fraction of stresses at 1,500 rpm. So theoretically the cranks occurring at starter motor speed will result in less wear until oil pressure builds than the same number of cranks when the engine is running.

Does this make a real-world difference: who knows? On the other hand, it's nice to listen to less start-up clatter.
 

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I just did my first oil change (on any car) following this guide. It was very easy although I had a couple of issues. Ordered the oil filter from Advance and went to pick it up. They gave me a 910 and assured me it was the exact same thing as the 910S, the S was just part of their part number, even though I saw one at Walmart and it actually said it was a 910S on the box and filter. Left and bought from Walmart. Next I took the filter off before draining the pan. Either there is always a lot of oil that spills out when removing the filter or that should be after draining. Lastly, the picture of the oil draining doesn't do justice to how far out it sprays at first, glad I had a mat down to catch it otherwise my driveway would have been a mess. Oh, also, I had to take the little brush guard thing off to get the cover off. Not sure how to do it otherwise.
[ffrocks]
As has been previously answered here, the S stands for Silicon ADBV. The silicon version is supposed to work better in the cold than the old rubber ones. Since the filter is located where it is, it doesn’t really require any ADBV because the oil won’t drain back up into the engine. I’m still driving an 08 but may purchase a new Focus this summer. I currently have just over 140,000 miles my 08 and have changed the oil over 25 times on this one. I use the Motorcraft filter and the Motorcraft semi synthetic oil and have never had any problems. I use the same on my other 3 liter Ford which is now around 160,000 miles. I’ll probably be close to 180,000 miles when I get rid of my 08 Focus. The one thing that I do when I change the oil is poke a hole in the filter to keep down the mess when I unscrew it.
 

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Thanks PratoN. I was not aware of those american sites. I order via ebay or amazon or when travelling to the U.S.A.
I didn't even notice you were an Aussie. Don't I feel like a [:)][:)][:)][:)]
 

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Discussion Starter #44
As has been previously answered here, the S stands for Silicon ADBV. The silicon version is supposed to work better in the cold than the old rubber ones. Since the filter is located where it is, it doesn’t really require any ADBV because the oil won’t drain back up into the engine. I’m still driving an 08 but may purchase a new Focus this summer. I currently have just over 140,000 miles my 08 and have changed the oil over 25 times on this one. I use the Motorcraft filter and the Motorcraft semi synthetic oil and have never had any problems. I use the same on my other 3 liter Ford which is now around 160,000 miles. I’ll probably be close to 180,000 miles when I get rid of my 08 Focus. The one thing that I do when I change the oil is poke a hole in the filter to keep down the mess when I unscrew it.
Nice contribution. Thanks!
 

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In the 40+ years I have been changing my own oil I have never pre-filled an oil filter. This included all through high school and college working in a garage where no one pre-filled oil filters

My vehicles all have gone 250-300k miles before I have gotten rid of them and I have never had an internal engine failure.

Certainly not a bad idea but I don't feel the benefit out weights the nuisance factor.
Consider yourself a very lucky man. Just think for a minute of the process that the lubrication system goes through, especially after an oil change. Before it lubricates anything in the engine it has to fill the element previous to supplying anywhere in the engine.

And THAT is oil change 101, precharge!!!
 

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Consider yourself a very lucky man. Just think for a minute of the process that the lubrication system goes through, especially after an oil change. Before it lubricates anything in the engine it has to fill the element previous to supplying anywhere in the engine.

And THAT is oil change 101, precharge!!!
Of course by precharging the oil filter the first dose of oil your engine receives is unfiltered. I guess we all assume the oil coming out of a bottle is absolutely pure, but industrial things can go wrong (and are you really sure that bottle you bought was unopened?). Then there's that 1/4 quart of leftover oil that's been sitting on the shelf for a year that seems just right for precharging the filter...
 

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Just did the 2nd oil change. Rotate tires and went through the entire under carriage with a keen eye. All looks good. Averaging about 3,000 miles per month. Car is doing what I bought it to do and doing it well.

Concerns: The key with these things is keeping them as far from dealerships as possible. I've found a dealer that I am willing to work with but man do you have to keep a close eye on them. Their mindset is doing things as quickly as possible and getting the next car in. Doing something "right" doesn't ever register on their meter. They are nice folks who have been sucked into a poor service mindset.

Comments: I doubt the pre-chargin hurts anything but modern motors are started for the first time EVER with a coating of manufacturing lube. The moment the motor is started, actually within about 5 seconds, for the first time the entire oil tract is coated in oil. During my career doing testing and development of high performance motorcycles I had the chance to be involved with the development of a new motor (Helicon) with Rotax in Austria. During testing the motor was run (we tried different oils), then the oil was drained, the motor was started without oil and run at redline for an hour to see what kind of wear we got. Bottom line is that the current crop (I use Amsoil, but they are all great) of lubricants, both synthetic and non-syunthetic, are absolutely amazing. Technology has really benefited lubricants.

It's nothing more than my PERSONAL OPINION but, absent something totally absurd (tossing in a handful or grit) you couldn't hurt a modern motor if you tried.

Milegae is great, handling is great, tires (with 15,000) look like they're due for replacement soon and the Focus is performing pretty much marvelously.
 

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...The one thing that I do when I change the oil is poke a hole in the filter to keep down the mess when I unscrew it.
What a great idea [idea] ! I have always hated the mess when unscrewing the filter. What/how do you poke it?
 

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Changed the oil with 1300 on the clock to get the break in oil out and it came out like water.

Thanks for the write up, made the job a breeze!
 

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Changed the oil with 1300 on the clock to get the break in oil out and it came out like water.
What do you mean, it was really runny? Was the oil hot? I am not sure its necessary to change the oil that soon, but I have the same concerns about "break in oil." Waiting till the light comes on doesn't sit well with me on the first oil change.
 

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Yep, very runny..and I chuckled when I saw the filter....for those of you old enough to remember the generic craze that is exactly what the factory oil filter looks like....alll white that just says "Ford" on it...not sure if it is the same as the Motorcraft FL 910-S but piece of mind was worth that $4!
 

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Yep, very runny..and I chuckled when I saw the filter....for those of you old enough to remember the generic craze that is exactly what the factory oil filter looks like....alll white that just says "Ford" on it...not sure if it is the same as the Motorcraft FL 910-S but piece of mind was worth that $4!
So when I need the oil changed, I will bring the car over too your garage Greg.
 

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If the S stands for Silicon Anti Drain Back Valve as nibyak states it is a better filter. The silicon is a more expensive, higher heat material than the nitrile rubber and withstands more heat cycles (more mileage). This is one of the improvements that allows the filter to last the 7,500-10,000 mile recomended service life.
 

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So wifey goes in to the local dealer today to pick up the filter, oil and a drain plug gasket. (Probably for the last time.)

They had the filter but had to order the oil (were all confused cuz she asked for the synthetic blend like in the pic at the start of this thread)[confused]

Then, when she asked for the drain plug gasket they told her that she had to buy the whole drain plug with the gasket; they come as one piece.

WTF? In my 30 years of changing oil that's a new one on me.

Is that true?? If so, my opinion of my move from Jap back to NA is getting worse every day.
 

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So wifey goes in to the local dealer today to pick up the filter, oil and a drain plug gasket. (Probably for the last time.)

They had the filter but had to order the oil (were all confused cuz she asked for the synthetic blend like in the pic at the start of this thread)[confused]

Then, when she asked for the drain plug gasket they told her that she had to buy the whole drain plug with the gasket; they come as one piece.

WTF? In my 30 years of changing oil that's a new one on me.

Is that true?? If so, my opinion of my move from Jap back to NA is getting worse every day.
Package of 10 at Canadian tire for less than 5 bucks
 

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So wifey goes in to the local dealer today to pick up the filter, oil and a drain plug gasket. (Probably for the last time.)

They had the filter but had to order the oil (were all confused cuz she asked for the synthetic blend like in the pic at the start of this thread)[confused]

Then, when she asked for the drain plug gasket they told her that she had to buy the whole drain plug with the gasket; they come as one piece.

WTF? In my 30 years of changing oil that's a new one on me.

Is that true?? If so, my opinion of my move from Jap back to NA is getting worse every day.
I'm confused by your reaction...

What the dealer said was correct. The drain plug and (rubber) gasket are not separate items. For a normal oil change, there is absolutely no reason to replace the gasket.

What's wrong with that???
 

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I'm confused by your reaction...

What the dealer said was correct. The drain plug and (rubber) gasket are not separate items. For a normal oil change, there is absolutely no reason to replace the gasket.

What's wrong with that???
If there's no need to replace the gasket, that would be fine. But it would be a first, in my experience. In every car I've owned the crush ring, be it plastic or metal, has to be replaced at every change.
 

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If there's no need to replace the gasket, that would be fine. But it would be a first, in my experience. In every car I've owned the crush ring, be it plastic or metal, has to be replaced at every change.
I've also replaced my fair share of crush washers. I was pleasantly surprised when I changed the oil on the Focus.
 
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