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Dunno whether it's me or the full synthetic I switched to, but I've gained about 3 to 4 MPG on my city driving. Usually only got 23 in city driving, now getting 26.

Anyone see any changes switching to full synthetic?
 

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Dunno whether it's me or the full synthetic I switched to, but I've gained about 3 to 4 MPG on my city driving. Usually only got 23 in city driving, now getting 26.

Anyone see any changes switching to full synthetic?
I went from 18-19 to 23-24. But not only did I switch to Full Synthetic, but switched to using 93 vs 87 oct.


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You will never convince the "all oils are the same" guys in this forum that a true synthetic actually does increase engine efficiency. In a 2008 Mustang GT with the 4.6L 3V engine, I used Mobil 1 5W-20 for 30,000 miles. After switching to Amsoil AZO 0W-30, the engine averaged 1 mpg more. Viscosity increased, yet efficiency increased. That's the testament of a true synthetic base stock. It's scientifically proven that PAO (group IV) and Ester (group V) base stocks have a lower frictional coefficient, when compared to petroleum (group II) and hydrocracked petroleum (group III).




Waiting for the haters and non-believers. They can come here to argue that Amsoil Signature Series is a waste, however.....it can be scientifically proven that my Focus, when driven the same as another Focus with the exact same options (using Motorcraft 5W-20), will achieve better fuel efficiency, result in lower wear metal ppm, and run cooler.
 

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Dunno whether it's me or the full synthetic I switched to, but I've gained about 3 to 4 MPG on my city driving. Usually only got 23 in city driving, now getting 26.

Anyone see any changes switching to full synthetic?
Mobil1 AFE (0w/20, 0w/30) makes the most aggressive fuel economy improvement claim of which I am aware, which is a "potential" 2% when switching from a higher viscosity, non-synthetic oil. So while synthetics are more efficient, I doubt very much if the improvement is enough to be noticed by users - certainly nothing like the 15% you're seeing.

On the other hand, requiring an 0w/20 oil like Honda and Toyota do can help a manufacturer meeting CAFE targets, or at least allow rounding to a higher mpg number, but these are lab results, not real-world ones.
 

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You will never convince the "all oils are the same" guys in this forum that a true synthetic actually does increase engine efficiency. In a 2008 Mustang GT with the 4.6L 3V engine, I used Mobil 1 5W-20 for 30,000 miles. After switching to Amsoil AZO 0W-30, the engine averaged 1 mpg more. Viscosity increased, yet efficiency increased. That's the testament of a true synthetic base stock. It's scientifically proven that PAO (group IV) and Ester (group V) base stocks have a lower frictional coefficient, when compared to petroleum (group II) and hydrocracked petroleum (group III).




Waiting for the haters and non-believers. They can come here to argue that Amsoil Signature Series is a waste, however.....it can be scientifically proven that my Focus, when driven the same as another Focus with the exact same options (using Motorcraft 5W-20), will achieve better fuel efficiency, result in lower wear metal ppm, and run cooler.
All that may be true. But the technicians at Blackstone Labs (the guys that do used oil analyses) mostly run conventional oil because they just don't see a difference in wear metals between Group III, III and IV oils. And there are a gabillion cars out there that have reached 200-300,000 miles on conventional oil.

If you want to run really extended oil change intervals, have a high-perfomance or turbocharged car, tow a trailer, etc. syns are the only way to go. I use syns exclusively, but not because I think the outcome will be measurably better. They just make me more comfortable.
 

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Just did my 30k oil change myself, in my 65 years it was one of the easiest. And to start this topic again I pre-filled the filter, and had a quite start up. This crap about unfiltered oil, the oil is unfiltered when you pour it in the valve cover and that is 4 quarts.
 

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I know they really did a knock out job on this one and I don't get that either how can new oil in a sealed jug or bottle be dirty...
 

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Just did my 30k oil change myself, in my 65 years it was one of the easiest. And to start this topic again I pre-filled the filter, and had a quite start up. This crap about unfiltered oil, the oil is unfiltered when you pour it in the valve cover and that is 4 quarts.
Not saying I buy into the concern, but the theory is this oil passes through the filter before it hits the bearings under pressure, which is where contaminants would do the most harm.
 

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Haven't been back here in a while, just got my Blackstone oil report after wife let her daily driver'12 FoFo go 8,850 miles on the original factory oil and filter...
Blackstone said we could've gone 10,000. TBN was still 1.1
Gotta love these new motors and oil.....
 

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Doesn't the Fumoto F-107N require the ADP-107 extension adapter on our cars?

I bought one a while back but never installed it. There's just no way that the oil can drain out completely when you use a Fumoto.
 

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I have been using Fumoto engine oil drain valve on my last 3 vehicles, and they work great, not to mention a real time saver. The one I got for my 2013 titanium is F-107N. You can hook a tube onto the nipple, so it drains with no mess.
Picked mine up on amazon. Worth every penny.
This.. is the coolest thing I've ever seen.
 

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Fumoto valves can be useful on some applications, but the drain plug on the Focus isn't exactly hard to get at and drains cleanly.

Also, look at the Fumoto website. They recommend also using a hose clamp to keep the valve closed if there's a risk of hitting debris, so opening the valve may not be quite as simple as it seems. And, if you take your car to an oil change place or dealer, don't assume they'll know what to do with the valve.
 

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i agree

I will NEVER use a "quickie" oil change place again. Their quality of work sucks. Their knowledge of the vehicle and simple mechanical knowledge is severely lacking. Those places have made one too many SIMPLE yet potentially damaging mistakes for me to ever go back.
so on a similar, yet different note, the Valvoline shop i used to go to , "forgot" to put the engine intake panel (felt cover thingy) back. Really? it's not like it was a little screw. heck, it took at least 6 screws to get the 3'x3' panel off. sheesh!
 

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I know it's not for everyone, I just wanted to put it out there as an alternative option. I have always used a small zip tie to secure the lever, even on the other style that doesn't have a nipple, just CYA insurance that it isn't activated unintentionally. And I put a rubber cover over the nipple where the hose can slip on to keep it sealed from debris. It's the cleanest and fastest method i have figured out to perform an oil change. I also use ramps when I do an oil change so I figure the angle the oil is draining out of the drain at, not much of a chance of leaving too much old oil in the pan. Just my two cents.
 

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so on a similar, yet different note, the Valvoline shop i used to go to , "forgot" to put the engine intake panel (felt cover thingy) back. Really? it's not like it was a little screw. heck, it took at least 6 screws to get the 3'x3' panel off. sheesh!
Just as a quick aside, off topic.
Since installing the Amsoil bypass system, I have not yet reinstalled the panel - I seem to have lost the screws (still searching) but I haven't seen anything detrimental yet, the temp gauge has not moved at all and we have recently had 100+ degree days with high humidity and I had the AC at Max. Nothing changed and I noticed nothing different at all even while extensively idling in traffic.

I want it back on but I wonder what it's actual purpose is since I have yet to see any problems.
 

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The panel is just for high speed aerodynamics (MPG) could reduce engine bay temps at idle but would not cause overheat.
Plus it keeps everything really, really clean. Makes it easy to check for the expected DCT oil leak, for instance. I like it.
 

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Just as a quick aside, off topic.
Since installing the Amsoil bypass system, I have not yet reinstalled the panel - I seem to have lost the screws (still searching) but I haven't seen anything detrimental yet, the temp gauge has not moved at all and we have recently had 100+ degree days with high humidity and I had the AC at Max. Nothing changed and I noticed nothing different at all even while extensively idling in traffic.

I want it back on but I wonder what it's actual purpose is since I have yet to see any problems.
Also on a side note, the temp gauge on the dash is more of an idiot light than anything. It will stay "normal" through a wide range of temps, after about 40C, up to over 100, it will not move. Just an FYI [wrenchin]
 

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Also on a side note, the temp gauge on the dash is more of an idiot light than anything. It will stay "normal" through a wide range of temps, after about 40C, up to over 100, it will not move. Just an FYI [wrenchin]
Not that I don't believe you but I have never heard of such a thing. Are you sure it goes to the middle and then stays there no matter the temp fluctuation?
 
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