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Yes, there are in an absolute sense, stupid questions (why don't things fall upwards?). But my greater point being, that I'd rather someone feel embarrassed for a moment for having asked something that may have been asked before, or sound obvious because of inexperience and get a good answer--or be directed to it--than not asking because they're afraid of feeling stupid.


No offense taken.
Again, agreed.
I had thought that my post was humorous and not dismissive but I can see in 20/20 hind site that some may not have seen it that way, you, in particular, since it was your post that I quoted in my reply.

Be it known throughout the land that I was not intending to insult or be dismissive of newby questions. I am a newby here myself and my questions, as I stated, may have been asked 100 times. I was thanking everyone, in my own way, for answering.

Another question - Is anyone gathering these reports together and putting them into a spreadsheet for analysis? I know Beast, is doing it in another forum but is anyone doing it here?
 

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No doubt Amsoil is a fine oil, but one thing any oil or filtration system can't do much to combat is fuel dilution. DI engines like the Focus are prone to fuel dilution of course and we don't have a ton of real-world experience to gauge how big an issue this will be for us. I detect a little gas odor whenever I check the oil, which makes me wonder.
So far, I haven't had an issue with fuel dilution at all. The last UOA using Amsoil Signature Series 5W-20 and the bypass oil filtration system performed very well. Here is the UOA. First sample was the OEM Motorcraft 5W-20 fill. Second sample was Amsoil with bypass filtration. This oil is still in my car today and will be tested again at 10,000 miles or more. You can see that TBN is strong and wear metals are very low.






My point is, before you run 25,000 miles or two years, I would sure suggest a used oil analysis to make sure all is well in there. Blackstone sells a neat pump that can extract a sample size via the dipstick tube.
I will test the lubricant every 5,000 miles. When the TBN nears 1.0, or Oxidation rises rapidly, or wear metals peak....I will change it. This is a test to see how long/miles that requires.

Amsoil has a pump as well, and I use it frequently on more than just my Focus.

 

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So far, I haven't had an issue with fuel dilution at all. The last UOA using Amsoil Signature Series 5W-20 and the bypass oil filtration system performed very well.



I see where you mounted the bypass, how much trouble was the mounting? I looked at my car this morning and it is rather close to the exhaust manifold but there is a heat shield, any issues? Were the supplied hoses long enough? What adapter did you use (13/16-16?) and did you need one or two of those? Any trouble changing the filter (I know you haven't done it yet but from the picture I can't really tell how much room there is to remove them).

I want. Wifey, can I please... It's only $500.00...
 

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I see where you mounted the bypass, how much trouble was the mounting? I looked at my car this morning and it is rather close to the exhaust manifold but there is a heat shield, any issues? Were the supplied hoses long enough? What adapter did you use (13/16-16?) and did you need one or two of those? Any trouble changing the filter (I know you haven't done it yet but from the picture I can't really tell how much room there is to remove them).

I want. Wifey, can I please... It's only $500.00...
It's far less than $500.00, see the link below. I posted details about it in this thread.

LINK

LINK 2

LINK 3

I haven't changed the filters yet and that won't happen for at least another year. The hoses were just long enough. You get 12' of hose. I cut that in half (two 6' pieces), and used all of it except for 4" off each hose.

Troy
 

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The engine oil that is first put in your car from the factory is called break in oil. It contains additives and micro particles to help smooth off rough edges in your engine.
FOR THIS REASON YOU SHOULD KEEP THE OIL IN YOUR CAR FOR 5,000 MILES, and only 5,000 miles.
The next changes you can use synthetic, and spread out the oil changes to every 8,000 miles.
Smaller engines like compressors require oil changes after 5 hrs, for the same reason
 

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The engine oil that is first put in your car from the factory is called break in oil. It contains additives and micro particles to help smooth off rough edges in your engine.
FOR THIS REASON YOU SHOULD KEEP THE OIL IN YOUR CAR FOR 5,000 MILES, and only 5,000 miles.
The next changes you can use synthetic, and spread out the oil changes to every 8,000 miles.
Smaller engines like compressors require oil changes after 5 hrs, for the same reason
[facepalm] ohhh micro particles... [screwy]
 

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The engine oil that is first put in your car from the factory is called break in oil. It contains additives and micro particles to help smooth off rough edges in your engine.
FOR THIS REASON YOU SHOULD KEEP THE OIL IN YOUR CAR FOR 5,000 MILES, and only 5,000 miles.
The next changes you can use synthetic, and spread out the oil changes to every 8,000 miles.
Smaller engines like compressors require oil changes after 5 hrs, for the same reason
Can we all agree this post is retarded? [?|]
 

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The engine oil that is first put in your car from the factory is called break in oil. It contains additives and micro particles to help smooth off rough edges in your engine.
FOR THIS REASON YOU SHOULD KEEP THE OIL IN YOUR CAR FOR 5,000 MILES, and only 5,000 miles.
The next changes you can use synthetic, and spread out the oil changes to every 8,000 miles.
Smaller engines like compressors require oil changes after 5 hrs, for the same reason
Yeah, I'm going to have to go with no on this one.

Factory fill is the exact same Motorcraft 5W20 semi synthetic oil that they use at the dealership for service or for the quicklane servicing. Its not special. Almost no manufactuers use special break in oils any more, maybe 30 years ago, but not today.
 

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Almost no manufactuers use special break in oils any more, maybe 30 years ago, but not today.
However, a Honda spokesman says its cars come from the factory with a special oil formulation for the break-in period. Honda advises owners to not change the oil early. Stark said Blackstone Laboratories' test of Honda's break-in oil shows it contains molybdenum-disulfide, an anti-wear additive. But Stark said Honda is the only manufacturer he knows that's using special break-in oil. The take-away? If there are any special break-in recommendations from the manufacturer, follow them. And consider analyzing the oil at 3,000 miles.

http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/top-7-urban-legends-about-motor-oil.html
 

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Had the oil changed today at 461, I was at the dealership for a mud guard install, it was $19.95 extra and I got my first good look under the car, that alone was worth it to me. No leaks and no large particles in the oil that I could see. I listened closely to the initial start up and couldn't hear anything strange but I was in the garage so I may have missed it. My Olds Acheiva used to make a hell of a racket after an oil change.

I plan on doing the Amsoil By-Pass install as soon as funds allow, hopefully around 1000 miles.
 

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However, a Honda spokesman says its cars come from the factory with a special oil formulation for the break-in period. Honda advises owners to not change the oil early. Stark said Blackstone Laboratories' test of Honda's break-in oil shows it contains molybdenum-disulfide, an anti-wear additive. But Stark said Honda is the only manufacturer he knows that's using special break-in oil. The take-away? If there are any special break-in recommendations from the manufacturer, follow them. And consider analyzing the oil at 3,000 miles.

http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/top-7-urban-legends-about-motor-oil.html
Honda would be an exception not the rule, hence why I said that pretty much there is no special break in oil anymore. I didn't say it was 100% of the time.
 

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I'm considering getting one of these Accusump accumulators/primers as well as doing a catch-can, and mechanical oil pressure+temp gauge install. Someone from an Audi forum turned me onto the Accusump, as a means to prevent as much start-up wear as possible.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=2410

I'd have to figure out what bits are needed exactly to patch it into the Focus' system.
 

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I'm considering getting one of these Accusump accumulators/primers as well as doing a catch-can, and mechanical oil pressure+temp gauge install. Someone from an Audi forum turned me onto the Accusump, as a means to prevent as much start-up wear as possible.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=2410

I'd have to figure out what bits are needed exactly to patch it into the Focus' system.
$1k to "protect" the motor, or $1k to build the motor... hmm
 

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Build with what? It's not like we have cams, throttle bodies, inlet, injectors, pumps, or any of that stuff for the Mk. III. I throw on a header and flex pipe with what I have now, and I'll be maxed. :( $280+ some odds and ends for an accumulator doesn't sound like a bad investment to me.
 

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I'm considering getting one of these Accusump accumulators/primers as well as doing a catch-can, and mechanical oil pressure+temp gauge install. Someone from an Audi forum turned me onto the Accusump, as a means to prevent as much start-up wear as possible.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=2410

I'd have to figure out what bits are needed exactly to patch it into the Focus' system.
Last I heard and admittedly, it was over ten years ago, they used those for the turbos. I know that they don't use them now for that but why would you want that in this day and age? For start up oiling?

I don't believe that I have ever heard of a 'catch can' except on this forum, anyone here like to school me on what that is? I seem to be woefully out of date on some things.
 

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Honda would be an exception not the rule, hence why I said that pretty much there is no special break in oil anymore. I didn't say it was 100% of the time.
I guess I took your statement to suggest that only small-volume or niche brands or models were sold with what the manufacturer considers to be a don't-change-early break in oil. When in reality nearly 1 in 10 cars sold in the U.S. have a break in oil.

My bad.
 

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I guess I took your statement to suggest that only small-volume or niche brands or models were sold with what the manufacturer considers to be a don't-change-early break in oil. When in reality nearly 1 in 10 cars sold in the U.S. have a break in oil.

My bad.
Specifically when the original poster suggesting that Ford was using special break in oils with "microparticles" this was an extremely false statement. Factory fill is the same 5w20 semi-synthetic oil as is sold elsewhere with no special additives.

There are some exceptions that are not niche players, like Honda, but more often than not these days that is still a widely believed old wives tale.
 

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Specifically when the original poster suggesting that Ford was using special break in oils with "microparticles" this was an extremely false statement. Factory fill is the same 5w20 semi-synthetic oil as is sold elsewhere with no special additives.
I do agree wit dat.
 

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I agree with you (well, the MMW Act) that it has to be proven, but that's an unneeded headache - I've been there on an unrelated issue when it came to a warranty claim. Lawyers can get expensive. *shudder*

It's just easier to find a quality oil that meets the specification and not worry about it, rather than saving a few cents using an inferior oil.
An expensive private lawyer is not needed to force a manufacturer to stand behind their warranty.
A phone call to the State Attorney General's office, or Office of Consumer Affairs is all that's needed.
 
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