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If it were negligible, people wouldn't be bothering to prime the oil filter. When the oil system loses all its pressure during an oil change and then the engine is started, metal-to-metal wear is going on that an engine never see's at any other time in its life. Excessive oil changes does an engine no favors.
No, I'm saying that it's negligible if you prime the filter. It's not something to worry about. I'd be more worried about what is in the oil via oil analysis and the oil level. It's more like, excessive oil changes does your wallet no favors.
 

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If it were negligible, people wouldn't be bothering to prime the oil filter. When the oil system loses all its pressure during an oil change and then the engine is started, metal-to-metal wear is going on that an engine never see's at any other time in its life. Excessive oil changes does an engine no favors.
The only reason to prime the filter is so you don't have to run the engine for a few minutes after initial fill, stop it, pour another half quart or so to replace was the filter was filled with, check it, start it back up, stop it, check it again, etc.

It eliminates that middle step.
 

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So I've read in here that Mobil1 isn't true synthetic. I've been using it for some years now in my truck. If this is the case, what is recommended? I also see people running 5W-20. I haven't ran out to the car to grab the manual and read, but I will soon. But back to the main question, what's the recommended oil? Motorcraft?
Any oil that meets Ford spec WSS...945 (see your manual) is fine. And Mobil1 5w/20 is one of those.

There are precious few synthetics in the US market based on the old definition of a synthetic, Amsoil being one. However, Mobil, Valvoline, most Pennzoil, Quaker State, Castrol, etc. synthetics are made out of crude oil subject to extra steps in the refining process. They are of higher quality than conventional oils and perform better in extreme conditions and are capable of longer oil change intervals. So is Mobil1 as good as a "true" synthetic? Just about, and at an affordable price.
 

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So I've read in here that Mobil1 isn't true synthetic. I've been using it for some years now in my truck. If this is the case, what is recommended? I also see people running 5W-20. I haven't ran out to the car to grab the manual and read, but I will soon. But back to the main question, what's the recommended oil? Motorcraft?
Ford will tell you Motorcraft, but in reality, you only need to meet or exceed the Ford specification WSS-M2C945-A. For warranty purposes especially, you want to make sure of this - there would be few things worse than getting a warranty claim on an engine denied because a non-approved oil was used.

Sent from my Android using Tapatalk 2.
 

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Just to show how far oil technology has come, Pennzoil *conventional* oil meets that standard. Now I'm in the full-synthetic camp, but I'm just throwing that out there to show that there are plenty of oils from which to choose.

Personally, I would go with at least what the factory filled it with...semi-synthetic.

Sent from my Android using Tapatalk 2.
 

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Ford will tell you Motorcraft, but in reality, you only need to meet or exceed the Ford specification WSS-M2C945-A. For warranty purposes especially, you want to make sure of this - there would be few things worse than getting a warranty claim on an engine denied because a non-approved oil was used.

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my local dealers do synthetic changes for $30. that's just a few $ more than the oil and filter itself. can't compete with that.
 

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No, I'm saying that it's negligible if you prime the filter. It's not something to worry about. I'd be more worried about what is in the oil via oil analysis and the oil level. It's more like, excessive oil changes does your wallet no favors.
Based on my almost 30 years in the automotive repair/maintenance industry, metal-to-metal wear inside an engine is very much something to worry about and can cause accelerated engine wear. Excessive oil changes do an engine no favors.
 

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Any oil that meets Ford spec WSS...945 (see your manual) is fine. And Mobil1 5w/20 is one of those.

There are precious few synthetics in the US market based on the old definition of a synthetic, Amsoil being one. However, Mobil, Valvoline, most Pennzoil, Quaker State, Castrol, etc. synthetics are made out of crude oil subject to extra steps in the refining process. They are of higher quality than conventional oils and perform better in extreme conditions and are capable of longer oil change intervals. So is Mobil1 as good as a "true" synthetic? Just about, and at an affordable price.
To clarify, if we check the websites of the oil companies mentioned above that are manufacturing the cheaper Group, "III", what I call the pretend-it's-a-synthetic oil, (which are merely refined from petroleum crude oil and not manufactured using the superior performing synthetic oils using Group IV PAO or Group V ester base stocks), we find the recommended drain interval is no longer than the even cheaper Group II petroleum oils. For any oil to be safely capable of the rigors of extended drain intervals, the oils additive package has to be specifically formulated for this. Matters not what the base stock of the oil is. The additive package and a high TBN, (total base number), are what is necessary for safe extended drain intervals.
 

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Ford will tell you Motorcraft, but in reality, you only need to meet or exceed the Ford specification WSS-M2C945-A. For warranty purposes especially, you want to make sure of this - there would be few things worse than getting a warranty claim on an engine denied because a non-approved oil was used.

Sent from my Android using FF Mobile.
For an engine warranty to be denied because of a non-approved oil being used, it has to be proven that whatever damage occurred was due specifically to the oil. If the oil didn't cause the problem, the warranty claim can't be denied. This is federal law. Google --> Magnuson Moss Warranty Act.
 

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Heads up guys, Advanced Auto parts is having 20% off on their website. Use the code "P20" and use pick up from store for "free shipping" lol. Also, here are some others.

Note, limit one promo code per order.
20% off Sitewide
use promo code P20
$10 off $30+ or $25 off $70+ orders
use promo code A124
$20 off $50+ orders
use promo code ES123
$30 off $90+ orders
use promo code HUGE30
$40 off $100+ orders
use promo code TRT41
$50 off $175+ orders
use promo code HUGE50
Shipping is free over 75$ but picking up in store is "free" lol :)

EDIT: Not sure what oil to go with or use that coupon that FordCustomerService posted in another thread. 39$ - 10$ mail in rebate = 29$ for oil change, tire rotation etc etc.
 

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To clarify, if we check the websites of the oil companies mentioned above that are manufacturing the cheaper Group, "III", what I call the pretend-it's-a-synthetic oil, (which are merely refined from petroleum crude oil and not manufactured using the superior performing synthetic oils using Group IV PAO or Group V ester base stocks), we find the recommended drain interval is no longer than the even cheaper Group II petroleum oils. For any oil to be safely capable of the rigors of extended drain intervals, the oils additive package has to be specifically formulated for this. Matters not what the base stock of the oil is. The additive package and a high TBN, (total base number), are what is necessary for safe extended drain intervals.
Well, Mobil1 Extended Performance, "guarantees" protection for 15,000 miles and is made out those evil Group III base stocks.

And Pennzoil Ultra doesn't use crude oil: its base stock is made from natural gas through a GTL (gas to liquid) process. While technically a Group III base, it has real advantages, like Noack volatility as good as Group IV/V oils.

Nothing's simple here, but synthetics, even the "fake" ones are better than conventional oils.
 

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For an engine warranty to be denied because of a non-approved oil being used, it has to be proven that whatever damage occurred was due specifically to the oil. If the oil didn't cause the problem, the warranty claim can't be denied. This is federal law. Google --> Magnuson Moss Warranty Act.
I agree with you (well, the MMW Act) that it has to be proven, but that's an unneeded headache - I've been there on an unrelated issue when it came to a warranty claim. Lawyers can get expensive. *shudder*

It's just easier to find a quality oil that meets the specification and not worry about it, rather than saving a few cents using an inferior oil.
 

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Then, when she asked for the drain plug gasket they told her that she had to buy the whole drain plug with the gasket; they come as one piece.

WTF? In my 30 years of changing oil that's a new one on me.
Maybe someone did a failure analysis and found that more problems were caused by people losing the gasket and not realizing it than by people reusing the old one. (Those of us who would not make either error and would prefer the "old" way are probably a small minority.) If so, it would be better to make it captive on the drain plug and keep reusing it than to risk the more dangerous error of losing it and not noticing. Just a guess. As long as the manual does not call for the drain plug itself to be replaced at each oil change, it sounds like a reasonable trade-off for the clumsy/inattentive majority. Now if we could just get those people in the habit of using a torque wrench rather than doing drain plugs TAH.

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Is that true?? If so, my opinion of my move from Jap back to NA is getting worse every day.
Are you sure the Japanese manufacturers have not also switched to this style gasket in their new cars? The difference might be between "then" and "now", rather than between North American and Japanese companies.

I have reached the point of writing off my frustrations with stuff like this to "future shock" and just go with the flow rather than getting stressed over it. (This in no way implies that I will EVER like the idea of a touch screen to replace discrete buttons in a car.) Just 'cause I've been doing something a certain way for 40 years doesn't matter to the people who come up with some new way to do it. They are usually way younger than us and (think) they are much smarter. ;) It's also possible that the "experts" who convinced us all those years ago that replacing the gasket every oil change was mandatory were wrong, or the materials used for them are different now and no longer need it, or who knows what? If I start to find oil dribbling out around the plug after reusing it I'll just replace the plug and gasket together the next time.

Package of 10 at Canadian tire for less than 5 bucks
Probably shouldn't be too hard to find somewhere in the US or over the internet, too.
 

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Everything BlueFocusSE5 says is true, however.....there are millions of people in this world who have been brainwashed by big oil. The propaganda submitted by Big Oil claiming that hydrocracked petroleum is everything PAO and Ester are, at a lower cost, is the real myth.

It isn't even close. UOAs have been proving this for years, but people ignore the numbers. Even more benefits that a UOA will not show you are gained from the use of true synthetics. Lower friction, lower heat, lower NOACK, etc.
I chose to quote 'UnleashedBeast' and 'BlueFocusSE5' for this reply specifically because they seem to be both the most picky and the most knowledgeable of the posters concerning oil (not exclusively but in general). I have read this thread at least three times, yes, all of it, including the ramp discussions.

Hmm, OK, I'm convinced, true synthetic POA base stock.
I think that I will go with Royal Purples 0W-20
I can get it from Amazon for < $43.00 (5 Quart) With a filter (also Royal Purple) and free shipping (Prime Members) Kind of hard to beat that and price is always a concern isn't it?

Now, onto the real question: I have less than 400 miles right now (Damned NE snow storm and summer tires) and I am thinking of my manuals recommendation of no "Severe Service" for the first 1000 miles. I believe that they couch it in the no towing, extended idling, short trip kind of language and the no break-in period for the engine. Kind of seems counter logical to me. Would anybody like to yea or nay me on this?

Having owned a few 'new from the lot' cars I have to say that the best mileage has not come till about 30,000 but I have always changed the oil at the recommended first oil change or sooner and started using Mobil 1 - Does anyone here have any objection/cause/concern to the following scenario:

First change - 500 Miles - Standard factory blend and filter
Second change - 1000 Miles - Full RP Syn and RP filter
Third change - Unknown at this time - I want to look at it even though I know that appearance tells nothing I still want to see it/smell it for my own personal satisfaction, curiosity and stubbornness.

I remain unconvinced that changing your oil can result in damaging metal to metal contact in a modern engine, after all, isn't it already lubed? The oil that was already there should form a film even if it is not the fluid bearing that we have when running, yes, there may be some contact on the ridges but at the speeds and pressures during start up I don't see that as being a determining factor in total engine life. I may well be wrong but I remain unconvinced at this time. A good, well reasoned argument, as to why this may or may not be true is more than acceptable, no need to post links to scientific data or 'proof' is required or asked for. Knowledge for knowledge's sake and all that.
 

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I would like to add additional information about Royal Purple standard lubricants. Recently, someone used it in their Ford modular engine, and the results were not great. You can read my comments about it here.

LINK
 

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I would like to add additional information about Royal Purple standard lubricants. Recently, someone used it in their Ford modular engine, and the results were not great. You can read my comments about it here.

LINK
In this case I prefer to take your word for it. I read the thread you provided and it brings back memories of the research I had done some years before. I am now (or when it's processed) a Preferred Customer with Amsoil.

One quick question which it's to late to do anything about since I already payed but is the Amsoil 5W-20 Signature Series certified so that it won't break my warranty?
 

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One quick question which it's to late to do anything about since I already paid but is the Amsoil 5W-20 Signature Series certified so that it won't break my warranty?
Does it carry the official API SN certification, no. *for good reason*

Does it exceed all requirements of the API SN certification, yes.

Can Ford void your warranty by using it, no.

Amsoil OE and XL 5W-20 carries the official API SN certification. If you knew the reason why SS didn't, you would understand why OE and XL does.
 

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Does it carry the official API SN certification, no. *for good reason*

Does it exceed all requirements of the API SN certification, yes.

Can Ford void your warranty by using it, no.

Amsoil OE and XL 5W-20 carries the official API SN certification. If you knew the reason why SS didn't, you would understand why OE and XL does.
I assume that you are referring to the increased additives. I have no problem with this. What Amsoil filter is the right one for the MK3 Focus, the Amsoil site says no recommendation but I know that someone posted it somewhere.

Any thoughts on change interval for new cars starting with the first change? I value your opinion.
 

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I assume that you are referring to the increased additives. I have no problem with this.
That was once an issue with Signature Series, but now all passenger car formulations have API SN levels of ZDDP, so it's down to base stock choice.

Here are details on what the problem is with API certifications, how it's biased on petroleum base stock swapping, and discriminates true synthetic.



What Amsoil filter is the right one for the MK3 Focus, the Amsoil site says no recommendation but I know that someone posted it somewhere.
Standard length - Amsoil EA15K51
Long version - Amsoil EAO34

Any thoughts on change interval for new cars starting with the first change? I value your opinion.
I dropped the factory fill at 945 miles, soon as I knew the piston rings were fully seated. I then switched to a true synthetic Amsoil 5W-20 Signature Series and bypass filtration system. This will allow me to make two year oil changes if I desire, or 25,000 miles.

For a car without the bypass system, one year or 15,000 miles is easy. Whichever occur first.
 

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Unleashed, I'm curious as to what your thoughts are on the current (new) Castrol Edge Titanium FST 5w-20 and 0w-20 formulations (Gold bottle, supposedly the SN 'successor' to the SL/SM "German Castrol"). There's a lot of debate on places like BITOG about if it's a 'true' synth, partial PAO/Group IV mixed with Group III GTL base stock and the like. I wasn't able to source any Amsoil in time for my next change (tomorrow), so I got some of that and will be doing a Blackstone Labs analysis of it when I'm done with it (and switch to Amsoil sig, more than likely).

From what I've been reading about peoples' experiences and UOAs, it's a pretty decent product.
 
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