Focus Fanatics Forum banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ironically, it's the German made parts that's been breaking down left and right on my car.
310631

My hatch release failed recently (unable to shut), and my driver's side actuator assembly failed. What happened was the motor keeps spinning without doing anything and the lock control would bind up and intermittently prevent me from being able to lock the door.

Here's my finding (destructive teardown)
310628

The motor turns this white gear with a worm gear to actual the door lock

310629

The gear sits on the spindle on the left, then actuates the lock mechanism by working the guide post to pivot the assembly.

310630

But, over time the damn post actually fell out of the plate it was pressed into and disabled the motor from being able to do anything other than spin out the white gear... and the loose post was swimming around and causing intermittent inability to manually lock by becoming lodged in places and binding up the locking mechanism. $100+ became unusable all due to a 5 cent piece that wouldn't have failed if it was threaded and Loctited in place or welded in place.
 

·
Registered
2012 Focus SE hatchback black
Joined
·
731 Posts
It doesn't matter anymore where something is made. I've bought made in the USA stuff that's garbage too. Generally, everything is made like crap and not to last. Corporations want you to consume, consume, consume...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,090 Posts
Maybe you can make a slightly bigger threaded pin with one end reduced down to pin size and thread the new part into the plate to recoup that same latch back to working fine and like another $100 in your pocket for pennies. Similar to how I do the other latches used on early models. Surprised the plastic gear didn't fail first, commonly it does because the fail stress point holes are molded directly into it.

Look over the latch and you will likely find 'Bosch' on it somewhere. Yes to post above, they intend for the parts to only live so long and hopefully less than overall car to get you to buy new parts. They can't sell as many new cars so they turn parts into a much bigger part of the overall profit than they used to provide.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Maybe you can make a slightly bigger threaded pin with one end reduced down to pin size and thread the new part into the plate to recoup that same latch back to working fine and like another $100 in your pocket for pennies.
Good luck getting it torn down to that point without destroying the part.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,090 Posts
BTDT. I always take them apart with the least damage possible looking toward that. The biggest problem so far is that one riveted post needs to be drilled and tapped for a screw to hold the case together after rivet head ground flat, all other points that join the two halves still work to hold it together. Put latch back together plus tighten the one screw and presto, a new latch assembly. Both driver front latches in both my cars like that and working for years, running dry of grease is the usual fault but the latches are compartmented in such a way that no spray grease on earth will reach certain parts, the latches must be apart to correctly grease them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,233 Posts
My hatch release failed recently (unable to shut), and my driver's side actuator assembly failed.
Are the pics of the hatch or door latch? Both have the same issue?

Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,090 Posts
On mine at least the door latch limit switches are a problem but indirectly. The switches themselves are fine but dragging parts due to no grease then fault the accurate switching of switches to not work at all or go into the repeat machine gun off and on action. On the wagon latch the parts again dragging from no grease and then seized up the actual latching parts. Took it apart too to then get it working fine and for years now like the doors. Just had trouble a couple days ago with sedan trunk latch but that one I was able to spray grease inside to free the latching parts from the same issue without removing latch. Back to working fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Are the pics of the hatch or door latch? Both have the same issue?

Paul
The pictures in this thread are of driver's side door latch.

The failure on my hatch was the latch failing to close. I believe this failure was something to do with limit switch wear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Ironically, it's the German made parts that's been breaking down left and right on my car.
View attachment 310631
My hatch release failed recently (unable to shut), and my driver's side actuator assembly failed. What happened was the motor keeps spinning without doing anything and the lock control would bind up and intermittently prevent me from being able to lock the door.

Here's my finding (destructive teardown)
View attachment 310628
The motor turns this white gear with a worm gear to actual the door lock

View attachment 310629
The gear sits on the spindle on the left, then actuates the lock mechanism by working the guide post to pivot the assembly.

View attachment 310630
But, over time the damn post actually fell out of the plate it was pressed into and disabled the motor from being able to do anything other than spin out the white gear... and the loose post was swimming around and causing intermittent inability to manually lock by becoming lodged in places and binding up the locking mechanism. $100+ became unusable all due to a 5 cent piece that wouldn't have failed if it was threaded and Loctited in place or welded in place.
Thanks for this detailed post! it is really helpful. keep it up. im looking forward to your future assessments.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top