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Discussion Starter #1
I am new here and I have a 2001 Ford focus 2.0l dohc and I am have troubles finding out my misfire on cylinder 4 I have replaced these following parts, all 4 injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, coil pack, spark plugs, wires, and the ECM when I go up big hills I lose power and when I drive down the highway it starts to over heat sometime I will start it and it will idle high and won't stop until shut off. If anyone knows of this part what is the name and can I buy it off eBay maybe idk 150 miles a gallon is what I'm getting in town the check engine light also flashes like my temp gauge is to fast for my rpms


Thanks Cory1466
 

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Old Phart
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Made this it's own thread for more looks.

At this point there are two basics to check first IMHO, the CEL you are currently getting and the compression readings for all cylinders.

DO also check fluids/levels, particularly oil for level/contamination just in case.
 

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You can't find the problem but you're good enough to know it's not the compression. What seems odd about that??????? Plenty if you ask me.

Give US the numbers, after all you are down to asking us now, please don't cripple that.
 

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So let's break this first comment down:
I am new here and I have a 2001 Ford focus 2.0l dohc and I am have troubles finding out my misfire on cylinder 4
How do you know this? Have you had a code reader on the car and the code comes up for a #4 misfire?
I have replaced these following parts, all 4 injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, coil pack, spark plugs, wires, and the ECM
Which plugs? What gap are you running? What was the condition of the previous plugs? New parts or used parts?
when I go up big hills I lose power
Compared to what? How it ran previously? When did this start happening?
and when I drive down the highway it starts to over heat sometime
Overheat as in boilover? Temp gauge reading? And what do you mean sometime?
I will start it and it will idle high and won't stop until shut off.
Again when did this happen? Just recently? At what rpm level? Hanging revs when shifting (or is it an automatic?)
If anyone knows of this part what is the name and can I buy it off eBay maybe idk
What part are you actually talking about? No pictures to indicate.
150 miles a gallon is what I'm getting in town
Assume you mean 150 miles/tank
the check engine light also flashes like my temp gauge is to fast for my rpms
A flashing CEL means you are damaging the engine. A POSSIBLE cause is a misfire dumping fuel into the catalytic converter but not specifically this issue.

Here's Pro Tip: speak (or type) proper English-no run on sentences and proper punctuation and capitalization. Think about what you are typing (go back and re-read if you are not sure). You provide very little in actual useful information (esp. the cylinder pressure numbers). We are here to help but give us more to go on. Pictures are a big help-video even more so.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks

Going up hills I lose power as the engine light flashes at me the car temperature gauge starts to get hotter. I was driving on the highway and the car started to overheat or it says it is overheating. The light started flashing and the car shut off. It is an automatic. I will call the shop and get the statistics for the readings on the cylinders. And post them up. The overheating didn't start until I got it back from the shop after the new ECM was installed. I have had a misfire on cylinder 4 so the first shop replaced all four injectors, fuel pump fuel filter, coil pack two of them because the first one arched through one of sides and made a hole on cylinder 4 coil I do not have any pictures I'm sorry I have pictures of the car and I can take pictures of the new parts that have been put on it has not arched thru the new coil pack!! Ok when I pulled cylinder 4 spark plug out the bottom of the plug has black sulfur on it I wiped if up and cleaned it good and I still miss fired after driving it awhile like it took some time I have the gaps set smaller now I will give you all digits in the morning maybe give yall a Phone number and you can call him hell I about took it to the junk yard but I love this car wait to much so I found a site I hope it helps me....


I'll get back with you in the morning.
 

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Captain TMI
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You pulled #4 and found black residue. Was that wet black residue or dry black residue?

Check spark plug deposits against this chart or a similar chart.


Dry black is most likely what you have, and is caused by a rich mixture in most cases. Wet black could be oil or fuel depending on what you smell from the spark plug. If the plugs were platinum or iridium, then any sort of deposits would tell of another problem. For example, I had a Windstar that was eating plugs. I changed the plug, and within 2 days it was bad again. The deposits were black and dry, but the plug looked burned- the metal had a bluish tinge to it after it was wiped off like an electrical arc burn. That was a bad coil. That wasn't listed in the chart, but it can happen- even with a new coil. I would try several things before replacing the coil again.

The only reason to replace the ECU is if the car will not start and the odometer reads [-------] and the ECU fuse is not blown. Every other reason results in threads like "I replaced the ECU and it's still broken". If your mechanic suggested ECU replacement with the sorts of symptoms that you're having, then you need a new mechanic. That one is bad, and most of the reason why your car isn't fixed. 99% of replaced ECUs only lighten the wallet of the car owner.

I think that the ECU replacement fried your engine temp sensor, and that is why you're seeing overheating but the car hasn't self destructed yet. I just want you to check that using the electronic odometer trick. Key off, press and hold the trip odometer reset button. Turn key on while continuing to hold down reset button. The odometer will read [test], release reset button, and the gauge needles will jump around, and the odo will read [gage]. You are now in test mode. You will remain in test mode until you turn the key off, so you can start the car and drive with test mode in effect. Pressing and releasing the reset button will scroll through one of several functions. You are looking for the one that reads [15 C] where the first number is the number of degrees. I'm using 15, which is about 60F, as a reference here. Your number will be different depending on how recently the engine was used, how cold it is there, etc. Drive and you can watch the temp go up and down as the thermostat opens and closes. If your temp sensor is bad, you will see temps jump to ridiculous highs like 200C in an instant without any change in how the engine is running. I think you already sense that there isn't much changing with the engine when it is overheating, and you haven't experienced the overflow spouting steam from being over pressurized.

I think you have a bad coil and a bad temp sensor. Yes, I read that you just replaced the coil, but if that coil is like the burned coil I described then it is bad. We have had some people who experienced problems with the wiring going to the coil, but that didn't cause the coil to burn the plug as you described. Yes a brand new bad coil can do that. A coil that is bad like this will have low resistance on the primary.

A long shot we recently experienced with another FF is that you might need a cylinder head ground wire. This doesn't cost much of anything, so you might as well try it. Run a wire from a bracket bolt or a bolt on the intake manifold or something metal on the cylinder head that isn't holding down a seal to a bolt on the chassis that doesn't have paint under it.
 

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Clear enough. Read sentences 2, 3, and 7.................the car overheated to bring on failsafe shutdown, another driver that does 5X the damage by continuing to drive the car overheated. Probably toasted head gasket to lose #4, PCM most likely changed for no reason at all. Or, more self-inflicted cost.

Again, the compression numbers will tell all..................
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I replaced coil wire on and got all power back it still over heats. So I'm going to flush the radatior. Replace temperature housing and thermostat.
 

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Old Phart
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Good to solve the misfire with a wire now.

Flush is good maintenance, but why the housing/thermostat? Unless it's leaking I don't see that helping. Overheat would be fast if the thermostat didn't open, radiator gets hot - right?

Fans need to be checked first for getting too hot, losing the low speed operation of them is the most common issue on these.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here is a video of when the idle gets stuck you could say.... this is while it is in park it drops down if you put it in gear usually I just shut the car off and turn it back on and it goes to normal idle
 
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