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Discussion Starter #1
So my sister's SPI has a misfire on #2. I pulled the plugs and the #2 one is black. Its brand new I put it in last night hoping that it was a simple problem. Swaped the wires around to see if the wire was bad. Still #2 was misfiring. Then I put my used (put good) coil pack on it. Still #2 has a misfire.

Where do I go from here? You can smell the unbrunt gas and see a light puff of smoke. I'm hoping I'm not looking at having to do an engine swap.
 

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Wish i could suggest something you haven't tried. Knew a few people with misfires on their SPIs, but they were all from bad plugs. Someone should have a few more suggestions.
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Hmmmmm
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o ya forgot you already did the swap. lol

thats why i bought my gf a 07 :)
 

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Step one at this point would be a compression check on ALL cylinders, to see what the basic engine condition is B4 going further...

Luck!
 

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Yep, a compression test will tell you if it's a bad injector or low compression that's causing the black plug. If it was a bad injector, then it would probably be hard to start. Sometimes it might even flood causing you to think that the battery is running down when the engine slows considerably during cranking.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah its hard to start. Its not turning over very easy at all.

So how does the compression test tell you which is bad?
 

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If the numbers aren't within about 10% of each other you've got a potential issue...

If one isn't reading much compression at all, you've likely got the dreaded valve seat drop SPI issue....

luck!
 

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low n slow
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for injectors you can use a multimeter to check the resistance. or you could always make a half ass setup with an extra injector pigtail a battery and a momentary switch http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFJlTfHyrUk like this kinda
 

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Yeah I knew that a dropped seat would yield no compression.
I figured [:p]

A resistance test won't tell you if the injector is stuck open. It will only show you if the solenoid is fried. Since you're having issues starting like I described, then it probably is a stuck injector. Have you ever disassembled one of those before? It is possible to pull the spindle cap off, spray (shield your eyes) carb cleaner forward and backward through it, and then you might get the spindle to move again. A battery and pigtail will help, but you might find out that the spindle cap is messed up like I did when I had one stuck like that. In that case you'll just have to replace it unless you kept parts like that from your swap.
 

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Aurelius Pardus
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check compression for sure... I know I'm a bit late to this party I guess but that will RULE OUT a burnt valve, bad rings, etc. and there's no way she would have a dropped seat without knowing it. sounds like a damn pinball wizard at work.

or if you feel like doing this instead, pull the fuel rail enough to swap injectors from a known good cylinder with #2 and see if the misfire moves. just make sure you have the o rings so you don't set it on fire. I'm sure you know that too but I'm covering my butt.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I figured [:p]

A resistance test won't tell you if the injector is stuck open. It will only show you if the solenoid is fried. Since you're having issues starting like I described, then it probably is a stuck injector. Have you ever disassembled one of those before? It is possible to pull the spindle cap off, spray (shield your eyes) carb cleaner forward and backward through it, and then you might get the spindle to move again. A battery and pigtail will help, but you might find out that the spindle cap is messed up like I did when I had one stuck like that. In that case you'll just have to replace it unless you kept parts like that from your swap.
No I didn't know you could take em apart. I'll try that before spending the $60 on a new one. One of the things I sold with the engine was the fuel rail and all the injectors. I kept lots of other stuff tho and its paid off.

check compression for sure... I know I'm a bit late to this party I guess but that will RULE OUT a burnt valve, bad rings, etc. and there's no way she would have a dropped seat without knowing it. sounds like a damn pinball wizard at work.

or if you feel like doing this instead, pull the fuel rail enough to swap injectors from a known good cylinder with #2 and see if the misfire moves. just make sure you have the o rings so you don't set it on fire. I'm sure you know that too but I'm covering my butt.

Yeah I was just thinking about pulling the rail and swapping the injectors to see if it moved. Thats what I did with the wires and got no change, so thats how I ruled them out.


Thanks guys, I'm going to Pick N Pull today for other parts so I may just buy a few injectors from them.
 

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Hmmmmm
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dont you mean "buy" XD who buys injectors from pick n pull...
 

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Had Motorcycle injectors stuck from long storage that eventually cleaned up with carb cleaner & some "clicking" by connecting jumper wires to a cycle battery on the bench...

Prob. a different issue as they were just gummed up from years with old fuel in the bike & no use...

FWIW I'd try it if it's "junk" anyways.... That"s why we experimented with cleaning the stuck pump & injectors on that turbo Honda - New parts were hard to get & pricey, and you can't break what's broke already!!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well I switch #2 and #3 injectors. Still misfire on #2. I pulled the plug wire #2 with at idle no change, pulled the pigtail off injector #2 no change. Pulled the pigtail off injector #3 and the car died.

This isn't looking good. I guess I need to go buy a compression gauge.
 

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Probably the best single diagnostic tool you can own...

They CAN often be rented... or borrowed.. IF you've got a GOOD friend with one....

Luck!
 
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