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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As of two days ago, I am a proud new (to me) Focus owner. I had to drive to Southern Utah to pick it up and tow it back but it was one of two SE 5spd hatchbacks for sale in the state. It's bone stock with 40k miles and I was able to pick it up for $7,000. So far, I'm in love.

It's primary purpose right now is to serve as a grocery getter and replace the Yukon as my DD. I plan on doing some basic maintenance and upgrades throughout the winter. Eventually, it will be my beginner rallycross car. Does anyone here use their Focus HB in rallycross?

Obligatory transportation picture:


Now for some questions:

1) On the passenger side of the dash, there appears to be some sort of insulation stuck between the windshield and the dash. Can anyone tell if this is the insulation that's underneath the dash? Has anyone seen something like this before? Edit: Upon further inspection, I noticed that the windshield was aftermarket so it must have been replaced at some point. The foam coming out is the foam seal between the windshield and the dash. From reading other forums, the seal can be pushed out when it heats up and expands. Considering this car was in Southern Utah, it's had a fair share of hot days.



2) The previous owner installed some door edge protectors that are stuck to the door with a foam adhesive strip. They're on there pretty solid at the moment. I've read some people mention the low quality paint on commuter cars so I want to make sure I use the right adhesive remover before I tear off the strips. Any suggestions on a paint safe adhesive remover? GooGone?



3) Lastly, I've noticed something odd when I'm sitting at a stop light. If I'm just sitting there in neutral with the clutch pedal released the car idles smoothly. If the car is in first with the clutch pedal depressed, the car will idle smooth for a little bit (15 seconds or so?) but then some sort of vibration occurs. If I put the car back into neutral and release the clutch pedal, the vibration goes away again after a couple of seconds. Any idea what's causing this?

Edit: Added pictures another way. Also, please disregard the grime. We had a pretty good storm up here in Utah yesterday.
 

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use heat to start on the door bumpguards, then you may use 3m adhesive remover or whatever. the paint is actually pretty good on these cars.

the car will idle a little high maybe 100rpm by depressing the clutch. vibrations typically point to motor mounts. also do the insert or electric focus rear motor mount swap.

the front dash is crappy ford, if you can push down on the insulation and tuck it in, i'm sure that's fine.

another thing you'd want to look into is replacing the PCV in the engine bay. $40 replacement part, fairly easy to do. You can call a local dealer if they're reputable and they may or may not do this under a newer recall. most dealerships reprogram the computer and call it a day.

get an alignment. it'll make a decent difference and the rear of the focus is one bolt that allows for better than most for adjustment.

a short shifter on the 5 speed is also a must as a commuter. you can get the steeda bracket for like $70-80 and just need to do a little grinding with a dremel to get it into place. also do the snorkel delete.
 

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3) Lastly, I've noticed something odd when I'm sitting at a stop light. If I'm just sitting there in neutral with the clutch pedal released the car idles smoothly. If the car is in first with the clutch pedal depressed, the car will idle smooth for a little bit (15 seconds or so?) but then some sort of vibration occurs. If I put the car back into neutral and release the clutch pedal, the vibration goes away again after a couple of seconds. Any idea what's causing this?
So these cars have an idle change that occurs when you put the clutch in as I guess an aid to driving off? Watch the idle climb when you put the clutch in at a stop. Note when the roughness comes on and goes away.
Does it vary with the idle speed?
How many miles on it? I would put a good injector cleaner in it and some good quality gasoline and drive it for a tank full and observe if it goes away. It should. FYI, this is my .02 cents. I assume no liability [wiggle], but that has worked for me on my 5 speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the tips guys! Steeda is having a sale on that short shifter so I picked it up last night. I saw the outstanding recall on the valve when I bought the car so I'm planning to schedule something with a dealer this week.

The idle thing is a feature that I didn't know existed. I was playing around with it and noticed that it has nothing to do with being in gear or not. It's all dependent on when you press/release the brake to aid in driving off. My last manual was a much older car so I had no idea this was a feature.
 

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Welcome to FF......Your going to love that Steeda sts.......Your Yukon looks cool...5.3 or 6.0?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Welcome to FF......Your going to love that Steeda sts.......Your Yukon looks cool...5.3 or 6.0?
It has the 6.0 LQ4 in it. It's been an amazing "truck" and did better than I expected towing the Focus back to SLC. It just passed 265k miles on the trip!
 

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I tried paying attention to the RPM/clutch thing while driving my 2012 today and I don't see any variation in the RPMs with the clutch depressed so I'm thinking this might have been added in the next couple model years. Anyone else with a MK3 earlier than 2014 try it?
 

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It kind of does it in my 6MT focus but only when the friction plate starts making contact with the flywheel will the RPMs jump up to around 1100rpm. Fully depressing the clutch pedal will not cause this.

Are you able to see if you can try to get a better feel or hearing where the vibration starts? (if possible)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I tried paying attention to the RPM/clutch thing while driving my 2012 today and I don't see any variation in the RPMs with the clutch depressed so I'm thinking this might have been added in the next couple model years. Anyone else with a MK3 earlier than 2014 try it?
It turns out that the feature has nothing to do with the clutch. When the car is sitting still in neutral with the clutch depressed and your foot on the brake, the idle should fall a little under 1k RPM. When the brake is released, the idle jumps up by a few hundred RPM.
 

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The car should idle at 750 rpm without the clutch engaged.
When the clutch is pressed it will climb to around 900.
If you leave the clutch engaged and press the brake at the same time the idle will go back to 750 until your foot leaves the brake.

That is how my 2012 works.
 

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I tried it with all combinations of:
in gear, clutch in;
out of gear, clutch in/out;
clutch in/out with/without brake

and the idle RPM did not vary for me.
 
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