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Discussion Starter #1
So I have been one that has had transmission trouble since I purchase my focus in 2014. I love the car but hate the tranny. I have all of the latest updates and clutches in the transmission. My last repair on the clutch and TCM was October 2017. Car has been running great but in February, the transmission shudder returned. I kept waiting for it to get worse and I noticed that it seemed like it would clear up for a few days and then all of the sudden the shudder would come back. While waiting to get into the dealer, I was reading up on the forum about using techtron fuel system cleaner for the injectors. I waited until my tank was almost empty and added before I filled up. I can't explain why I did this except for the fact that I was at 74000 miles and thought it could use it. After I used about 1/4 tank of fuel the car miraculously drove perfect. But after I put the next tank of fuel in, the shudder came back after just 1/2 tank of fuel was used. While trying to figure out what was going on, I was reading more in the forum and saw where people were changing the plugs early and since the cleaner helped, I went and purchased a set of plugs. I did the plug change at 74895 miles.I drove less than 50 miles and the shudder disappeared. Now I am at 75234 and the shudder has returned. The difference though is that I am noticing an intermittent and very brief surging. I am not getting any check engine lights and the code reader is not showing any codes. The old plugs showed the engine was running lean except for cylinder #4 which had the normal blackish color. Any ideas on what could be going on? I tried searching for forum but I gave up because nothing seemed to match my search criteria.
 

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I noticed one thing with my 2014. (Gone as of three weeks ago. Now have a 2018). When the shuddering would start to get worse I would get on it hard from a stop a couple times and seemed like the shuddering would get a lot better for some time. I almost wonder if the clutches get contaminated with oil dust or whatever and getting on it hard cleans them up. I traded her in with 130000 miles and still had original clutches. I drove 90 percent Highway.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
After further research I have decided to change the purge valve. The symptoms I have been experiencing have disappeared. My car drives like the day I drove it home from the dealership. The only time I notice it not running as smoothly is when I use the air conditioner. Although it has a rough take off when the a/c is on, the car does not have the jerking and shuddering. I am still looking to eliminate the issue but undecided on what I am going do to try to solve this problem. @fordtechmakuloco
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update!!

So after the purge valve change, my car started acting up again about 3 weeks later. After more thought, starting jiggling the wires running to the ignition coils. I re-positioned some of the wires and just simply pushed on some of them. I closed the hood and drove down the road. I noticed that the car started running better again. This would last for 5-7 days and I would find that my car would start shuddering and shifting crazy until I did this same procedure. Since it seemed to be one of the wires running to the ignition coil I had to narrow it down. The next time the car acted up I only re-positioned and push on the wire going to the coil on cylinder 1. That didn't make a difference, so I move to the next wire. There was no changes in the performance of the car until I adjusted the wire on cylinder 4. I dealt with this issue on and off for months. Maybe I should have asked you all if there was a better way to test for this issue. As I thought about my problems and paid more attention to how my car ran when it was acting up, I noticed that there were surges when the car climbed a long hill. I also noticed that the car would sometimes hesitate to take off, especially when you were turning at an intersection. This made me nervous when making left hand turns on busy highways. After more thought, I remembered that the spark plug on cylinder 4 had evidence that it was running lean but all the other plugs looked normal. Keep in mind that my car has NEVER thrown a code. Even though it seems odd, I decided to either change the connector or change the wiring harness. When I found that a new harness was about $325, I chose to order a pigtail connector. I changed it over the weekend. As soon as I pulled out of the driveway, the car ran totally different. It shifted correctly. No shudder, no hesitation. I could not find anything wrong with the old connector. This is only day 2 but, I fight stop and go traffic on a daily basis. The car is behaving in regular and 'stop and go' traffic. So this leads me to my next question. Why would a fault with the connector, that does not cause enough of a misfire to throw a code, cause the transmission to act up? Could this be the problem of those that keep having the repair repeated and it seems to gradually start acting up about 1500 - 2000 miles later? Let me know your thoughts.

I will keep you all posted but, I am confident that this has resolved my latest issues. The car is doing better than it ever has and the more I drive it, the better it performs. BTW, I am at 104385 miles.
 
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