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Discussion Starter #41
Has the OP checked out Tri-Point Engineering, They developed the speed3 for Mazda. They also had a turbo kit for the Mazda3's yrs ago, IDK if they still have or offer them any more. The kit on a Mazda3 w/ a mtx was faster then a speed3.
Their web page is still under construction. If they have a decent bolt on mazdaspeed turbo replacement, I might have to consider them. The ATP Garrett units are pretty pricey (start at $1800) and I'm not sure I trust the companies out there offering "upgraded" MS3 turbos for less than $700. I think I can probably get away with this turbo for a little while. A small puff of smoke out the tailpipe isn't too bad. My last turbo was trashed and smoked like a poorly tuned 2 stroke [hihi] So I'm trying to avoid that.

If my rear sway bar ever gets here, I'm going to be replacing front control arms, strut mounts and front sway. Rear will get the new bar and strut mounts. Hopefully this will remedy a lot of the funky noises my car makes.

I'm sorry I haven't posted pics lately, but I have a pile of parts. I'm never home to get pictures of them though! Might get a chance tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
UPDATE:

I've just placed an order to get my oil drain components and oil pan fitting. I also have ordered the last (hopefully) parts piece to the puzzle: the injectors. I went with Siemens 60lb injectors. Now all that's left to do is the install and tune with Tom! Of course I will be photo documenting the install process. First install will be on stock injectors and no tune with 93 octane in the tank with the wastegate unhooked (no boost) to make sure my turbo is good. If it's not I'll be replacing it with a corksport upgraded unit... but for now, lets hope this turbo is still good so I don't have to be pushed back another month and a half. It's getting very close guys!!! I'll be happy with 180-200whp but ultimately it just has to stay together for another 100,000 miles. That's where Tom comes in because the tune is everything here!

I'm excited for the boost! Should be fun and exciting [cheers]
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Okay, so hopefully tomorrow or friday I will be able to pull the car apart and do a really good test fit of the kit. I'm still unsure about the downpipe as it is meant for an MS3. If it's too long, I'll just cut it down and weld the flange back on. The other concern is getting from the turbo outlet down to my intercooler. The turbo compressor housing is clocked so that the outlet points straight up. I think my plan of attack is going to be to run a sharp 90* silicon coupler from the outlet to an aluminum intercooler pipe across the top of the manifold, then down by the alternator to mesh into the existing piping from my last kit. I'm just hoping I can get around the downpipe. I know this setup will likely cause a lot of heat, so I'll probably spend the extra bank on a water injection system to keep IATs down. Unfortunately this is going to kinda ruin the sleeper effect once the hood is popped. But since I may have to drive the car with an open downpipe for a little while until I can get a muffler shop to modify the downpipe, who cares. I may even run a straight pipe 2.5" exhaust after the downpipe for fun, since I can hack that exhaust up and not worry about ruining my stock one. We'll see how the car sounds with just the stock muffler in the exhaust, I may put the secondary CAT back in if it's too loud or smells like an old motor boat. [giddy]

Like I said, hope to get more done on this project tomorrow with test fitting things. If not tomorrow, Friday morning is my next chance. [cheers]
 

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Discussion Starter #44
UPDATE:

My rear sway bar has finally shipped from C-F-M! Nearly three weeks later... I'd expect it to be less than a week before it arrives. I'll recruit some help and it will get installed at the same time I do the last turbo kit test fit. [cheers]
 

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Discussion Starter #45
UPDATE:

The MS3 downpipe fits like a glove. Tough to maneuver around the subframe and get up under the car, but I finally got it after removing a heat shield. It fits perfectly, save for the part where it's about 18" too long to bolt to the stock exhaust location. I think the remedy here will be to take it in to an exhaust shop and have them cut the downpipe down for me and mate it to the exhaust. I'll also have to neck down the 3" downpipe since I don't have a 3" exhaust.

I have pictures and a quick running video (quick because the oil wasn't draining to the oil pan) that I'll upload as soon as I can. [cheers]

EDIT: I will have to remove a small amount of material on the manifold because it touches an AC line, and my O2 sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Oh, and to sticky this power to the ground this is my game plan:

Set of 1996 Ford Contour 15x6.5 wheels. weigh 16 lbs each. Hub bore is same as Focus.

And Toyo R888 for rubber. Would my Nitto NeoGens have worked? Sure... Should I go overkill with race car tires? Of course... Because race car.

These will also help when I go canyon carving in California this summer. These tires with the sways I have planned plus my current suspension setup (Eibach Sportlines with KYB gas adjust) will make a crazy canyon carver. The idea is to beat my friend's 2014 STi ("stage 2" with R888) through the canyon. I'm also okay with eating up some miatas [giddy]
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Pictures!

Okay, so here's the pics I promised...

Here's the turbo and manifold on the ground. My brother was stupid enough to try to remove it from the built motor still bolted together... That's why there's the comment on the weight of it. Most of these pics are taken from his Snapchat. Oh, you can also see my fancy adjustable wastegate actuator.


Here is the turbo on the ground. Just so you guys know, that toolbox in the background is all you really need to install this thing tool wise, aside from a drill bit for the oil pan.


Here my brother is unwrapping the downpipe. It's an eBay special and is all super shiny... Cheap though. And before anybody knocks eBay stuff, it's just a piece of pipe! It fits perfectly and is exactly what I need, so I don't care its eBay.


Working on the car:


So the parts have to go in the car in an odd order. Downpipe first, like in the picture, then you have to set the turbo down on the subframe, otherwise you can't get it in there once the manifold is on. Then you can bolt the manifold on. Pick up the turbo and bolt it on, then the downpipe. The downpipe was a VERY tight squeeze around the subframe. Next time it goes in I'll be doing my front sway bar, so I'll be dropping the subframe just enough to not be an issue. Also You have to be careful of the power steering line! Don't mash it. I had to remove some heat shields too.


Here is everything bolted up. The biggest challenge is going to be where to route the IC piping off the turbo. I think I'm going to go over the exhaust manifold and back down along the firewall.


I bought this special 2" to 2.5" 90 degree silicon coupler to get the IC piping over the exhaust manifold, then down the back side.


Can you spot the blue intake filter? Not easily... That's the point [hihi]


The issue of this conglomeration of hoses still stands... I may just zip tie them out of the way and address them later. I can still run the 5" of pipe I need to get from the turbo to the filter around them. I don't think I need to worry about melting those heater hoses on the compressor housing, even if they're touching. and I know the blue hoses won't melt as it takes a blow torch to bother them.


Here is the downpipe bolted up. the primary O2 sensor rubs on a nub in the casting of the manifold. It's just a stud that a heat shield used to bolt to, so I'll just grind it down. Similar issue on the top of the manifold with an AC line.


This is where the filter is hiding... under the fuse box and behind the battery. Tight fit, but that just means it won't go anywhere, and it's fairly well hidden.


Okay, now for the videos I promised... First one is of startup. It's only running the 3" downpipe for exhaust, and the video does it NO justice, this thing was LOUD! [thumb]

Click the image:


Here are a few revs. I know I shouldn't have run the car without a proper oil drain on the turbo, but I couldn't help myself. So lets not hear the ridicule. [giddy] Also, the turbo is NOT plumbed to the intake of the engine and the wastegate is unhooked and in the FULLY open position, so no, I didn't overspin the turbo revving it this little bit.


Click the image:
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Okay, so I'm still waiting on parts to trickle in... it's all the BS parts you never think about like gaskets, and fittings and stuff.

I'm going to call a welding/fabrication shop in a bit to see if they can weld in the drain bung to my pan for me. That's the biggest hurdle to jump right now... Next will be the installation and the tune!
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I can weld it for you, just bring the parts.
Baytown is a bit of a haul... I'll get a quote for the oil pan and from the exhaust shop to shorten the downpipe and add a flange. If I can get that all done around $100, I'll probably just do that, not to belittle your offer by any means.

I just received another shipment of the boring little bits and bobs today.

Also, I nee to remember to pop the check valve out of the pcv system and vent the port. I've already done this on the valve cover.

It's coming along slowly but surely. [cheers]
 

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Discussion Starter #51
So I gave a "we fix rims" place a call. They're pretty local at 290 and 8. They do aluminum welding... Said it would be $50-60 to have my drain fitting welded to the pan. WTF??? I also have to completely clean the pan out, and have the hole drilled, so all they have to do is spend two minutes welding. I think we all know that's not worth $50... If only I had an aluminum welder...

NotReal, I might take you up on your offer to weld the pan... It would be well worth my time to save that kind of money.

I've been in contact with Tom about tuning the car when the time comes... Assuming my turbo is good, all that's left to buy/do is a PCV delete, autolite 103 plugs, and 180* thermostat. I'm really hoping this turbo will hold out at least a month. A garrett based replacement is like $1800 for an upgraded size (obviously I'd upgrade size) and $900ish for a stock size.

As soon as the oil pan fitting is nailed down I'll be able to run the car at idle long enough to determine if the turbo is good.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Okay guys, the install should be happening TUESDAY! or at least starting...

I have this Tuesday off, and every Wednesday off. Between those two days I hope to tackle the following:

Turbo install
Oil pan swap/oil change
Suspension overhaul: Strut mounts, control arms, sway bars.

(My steeda competition bar still hasn't arrived, and I've had no luck with C-F-M customer support)

Here's to hoping the install goes smoothly. I have another car to drive during this process. The plan is to do the install, leave the wastegate unhooked so the car runs NO BOOST, then start tuning with TOM, slowly working my way from no boost, to 5psi to 8psi, then arrive at 10psi [cheers]
 

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I almost did this back in 2011 when I blew my motor. had a guy just wreck his speed 3 on craigslist was gonna sell me ecu wiring motor and trans for 4k. but I just went built zetec instead. this is a good thread btw
 

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Discussion Starter #56
bah, just put a hole in the pan and use a bulkhead fitting.

Essentially what I did lol

I have a -10AN fitting for the drain, which is barely bigger than 3/4". I drilled the pan to 3/4" then filed it until the fitting was basically a press fit. Used a block of wood and a hammer to tap it in there. It should be leak free as is, but I'll be putting a touch of JB weld on there just in case.

I really hope I remember to delete the PCV valve...

Also, I've contacted Tom about a tune (yesterday) and am waiting to hear back about getting a base tune file.

I'm super excited about this build getting finished! [:)]

If anyone is interested in my next project (a few years from now) I'll be doing an LSx swap into an e38 BMW 7 series with a manual trans and twin turbos. Like I said, not for a while though.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Okay, so I'm in touch with Tom, and he has been paid for the custom tune. All that's left is to finish the install, and set up an appointment for remote tuning! Should be going CHU CHU by Friday!
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Minor setback in the build...

The O2 sensor bungs are in a terrible location. I will be taking the downpipe to an exhaust shop tomorrow to have this addressed.

As for the build, I have about 18" worth of intercooler piping to situate, and shorten my turbo oil drain hose. I'm super close! Working a long shift at work today, but I have tomorrow off. Hoping to finish everything tomorrow and load the base tune!

Progress was slowed because I went to Dallas for the weekend to visit a friend I haven't seen in a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Okay guys, the car is together!!!

I received a base tune file from Tom and loaded it successfully to the car. It runs, but not well enough to drive it yet. Working with Tom on some tune updates to get the car out on the road. First step is at 5psi.

I was able to let the car run for several minutes the other day. It sounds MEAN with just the open 3" downpipe on there (have to go to an exhaust shop to mate the downpipe to the exhaust. 3" down to 2".

The turbo seems to be in decent shape. It smokes a little, but its a used turbo with 123K miles on it... Not surprising.

Really excited to get the car moving and boosting!!!
 

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Grats on completion. Might want to research a local turbo rebuild shop. It's really not that expensive.
 
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