Good ideas. I have been watching the below youtube video as a rough guide.I think your best bet is to start playing assembly and use feeler gauges. put them in and then ones that are to tall of "valve lash" put int the ones with to small. You can use a micrometer to find the depth to reduce the build and tare down and build process.
A micrometer thought could impact the surface of the cam if you are not careful.
Yes you measure from the polished top surface to the post inside the bucket.
Roger that, thanks. Any reason why I can't grind the part of the bucket which meets the valve stem a tiny bit to make it happen? Seems easier since I don't have those cool springs you mentioned that I should have bought.Yes you can shorten the stem.
There is no noise even at the loosest spec, BTDT with an entire head set like that. I set them loose (last acceptable number on spec) and especially on exhaust as that recedes faster to make valve longer. I would never go past halfway tighter.
Thanks, I am going to have to do something here though. I put a WTB request in the WTB forum for smaller buckets.DO NOT ! grind the inside of the buckets
yes with the narrow part of the Cam Lobe straight up from the bucket
Roger that. The next question is how to make this a DIY job? I have been searching the internet all day trying to figure out the best way to get this straight. Looks like a bench grinder and a v-block makes the most sense?You grind the stems, not the buckets.
I my self have never done this. Tom or AMC49 I am sure have. Just know you don't touch the bucket.Roger that. The next question is how to make this a DIY job? I have been searching the internet all day trying to figure out the best way to get this straight. Looks like a bench grinder and a v-block makes the most sense?
I need to create a jig but unsure of what it would look like.