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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, here is the Story!

I purchased a Ford Racing Head, Stage 2 FR Cams, Screamin Demon Coil w/ Live Wires and had them all installed by "T and R Racing" here in NYC. T and R Racing Primarily works on RX7's and get nice results. I found out the hard way that they don't know shit about the Focus [?|] ! I took my Focus to them in Early March and today I finally got sick of there incompetence and told them to give me my car. They had it for 2 Months and they still could not get it right! Focus Fanatics Beware of this incompetent shop!

So here is my problem. My focus idles for about 5 to 7 seconds then bogs out. If I give it gas it will idle at normal idle (about 800 rpm's) for about 30 Seconds, then it jumps up all the way to 4000 rpm's the stays there.

Yes, part of the problem is that the car needs a tune but how are you going to tune it with such an erratic idle. It still should not do this. The car is not safe to drive. My Focus just wants to pull out on me. I have to really hold the brake down and even shut the car down at times in order to get it to stop.

Possible problems [???:)] > (The ones that I could think of) >

1) Bad Maf Sensor

2) Throttle body not connected properly.

WHat do you Focus Fanatics think??
 

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seems like they forgot to hook up as vacuum line or your timing is off.

see if maf is plugged in.

check EVERY line connected to the intake manifold. reset battery.

check timing. put cyl 1 to TDC then install cam timing tool (if it fits) make sure the lobes on the cams are both pointing outward on cyl 1.


why bring a ford to a rotary shop is pretty confusing to me. if anything take it to a honda shop. i hope you didn't pay them.

also maybe check the compression as well.

head swap takes 8 hours max
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Unfortunately I did not have many choices of places that had a Dyno. I learned my lesson! I will check out everything you mentioned. I only paid them half of what they wanted. They did do some work even though they job trying to get it tuned!
 

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where in NY are you located?? if you're in the NYC area you might as well drive up to bristol dyno in CT. Jon is the man when it comes to tuning the foci. he's done plenty of them. http://bristoldyno.com/

also if you go to CT i know of a few good people that can help you with your problem for lunch and some drinks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
hkysk8r07 said:
where in NY are you located?? if you're in the NYC area you might as well drive up to bristol dyno in CT. Jon is the man when it comes to tuning the foci. he's done plenty of them. http://bristoldyno.com/

also if you go to CT i know of a few good people that can help you with your problem for lunch and some drinks.
Thanks for the Advice, I have spoken with Jon at Bristol and I plan on bringing it up there as soon as I fix this problem. The car is not drivable in its current condition.

I Just went out to my Focus and checked the Vaccum line which was disconnected. Those losers at T and R Racing did not know what the hell they were doing. I have not started it up yet because I have a Question.

[???:)] I put the Vaccum line in and I was just wondering what keeps it in? There was no clamp or anything to keep it in?? [???:)]
 

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Most vacuum lines are slip on. as long as the end of the line isnt split. It should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Put the Vaccum line in Started it up and now the Car is much better! It no longer goes to 4000 rpm's. It is still Idling high (around 1100 rpms) But I think a tune will fix that. I am going to double check the timing just in case.

There is a rattle coming from the top cam gear side of the engine. Not sure if it is coming from the cams or if it is just the timing belt. The belt flutters, I think it is lose. I will have to check on that also.

If you Fanatics have any suggestions let me know. I appreciate all the info so far! Thanks!
 

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yeah check the timing if the belt is loose.

buy the cam timing tool and pull the valve cover. then crank the engine by hand to TDC and see if the tool goes in. (if yes then belt tension is off) if it doesn't go in pull the belt off the cam gears then turn the cam gears so that the tool fits in the slot and make sure that the loebs on the cams over cyl 1 are pointing opposite each other then the tool should slide in.


the rattle might be because they left something loose on the inside... which hopefully isn't the case. if it is i have the torque specs for tightening the bolts on the bearing thing that hold the cams in place, and correct sequence to tighten them in and can post it up for you.
 

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I am no expert on this stuff. But if the belt is loose dont run it like that...and if something sounds noisey and it is coming from the valve train..dont run it. Get it fixed or do the work yourself. it sounds like whoever did your work may have something not quite right.

Try contacting McNEWS they are only a few hours from you and they really are helpfull there. Maybe once you get the thing running pretty well, take it to them and have them tune it for you. Good luck with your project and let us know how it turns out once completed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
hkysk8r07 said:
yeah check the timing if the belt is loose.

buy the cam timing tool and pull the valve cover. then crank the engine by hand to TDC and see if the tool goes in. (if yes then belt tension is off) if it doesn't go in pull the belt off the cam gears then turn the cam gears so that the tool fits in the slot and make sure that the loebs on the cams over cyl 1 are pointing opposite each other then the tool should slide in.


the rattle might be because they left something loose on the inside... which hopefully isn't the case. if it is i have the torque specs for tightening the bolts on the bearing thing that hold the cams in place, and correct sequence to tighten them in and can post it up for you.
I will have it all checked out on Monday! Thanks for the Advice, I will keep you posted on the results.

I am no expert on this stuff. But if the belt is loose dont run it like that...and if something sounds noisey and it is coming from the valve train..dont run it. Get it fixed or do the work yourself. it sounds like whoever did your work may have something not quite right.

Try contacting McNEWS they are only a few hours from you and they really are helpfull there. Maybe once you get the thing running pretty well, take it to them and have them tune it for you. Good luck with your project and let us know how it turns out once completed.[/B]


[thumb] Don't worry about that, I will not run it until everything is perfect! Unfortunately McNews is closed today. It will have to wait until Monday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I just noticed that my Cam belt tensioner appears to be loose and that looks to be the Cause of my rattleing problem. It appears to be rubbing up against my passenger side engine mount. Timing is off becase the belt is loose and the belt is fluttering slightly. I am getting more & More upset with the incompetence of T and R Racing!
 

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Very curious about the final results on your car. My car idles very high and jumps. It actually broke the pipe leading to the EGR and the catalytic converter gets red hot. Help what did you do to stop your idling.
 

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kaoshen said:
Very curious about the final results on your car. My car idles very high and jumps. It actually broke the pipe leading to the EGR and the catalytic converter gets red hot. Help what did you do to stop your idling.
What year Focus do you have? Your issues are totally differnt. What broke the EGR line? One the Zetecs the EGR is on the other side of the motor[confused]
 

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kaoshen said:
Very curious about the final results on your car. My car idles very high and jumps. It actually broke the pipe leading to the EGR and the catalytic converter gets red hot. Help what did you do to stop your idling.
Yours sounds like a Vac leak and or a stopped up CAT , I just out side of Charlotte if you need any help , Have all the tuning stuff and the tools to check it properly

Tom
 
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