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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I have several problems, most likely do to shitty equipment *cough* sony *cough*

well before I get started why dont I list what I have
headunity: sonny CDXGT350MP
Front Stage: Rockford fosgate P1572
Subwoofers: Sonnyxplode 12s Not sure the model number I just know there a few years old and were one of there more expensive models at the time.

Well lets kick this off, my first problem is sometimes when I get in my car and turn the key to battery on or even start the car , the head unit will lite up and Ill have no music playing and the sub setting will be set too off. Sometimes the subwoofers making popping sounds, not bad popping sounds it sounds more like a heart beat then when I go to play music the subs will still make this heartbeat sound or not even play at all. When this happens i normally just turn the car off turn it back on then everything sounds fine.
I HAVE CHECKED all of my cables my grn my power my speaker cables my stem controll and even connections at the battery everything is tight and good

My second problem or more of a concern is when im not playing any music I will turn the headunit up and around voulme 28 or so every notch more I turn it, lets say I go from 28 to 29 the subwoofers will make a little faint hardly audible sound and then when I get around 30 I get white noise coming from the speakers. anyone know how to fix this, what is this? does the head unit not have sufficient power? signal clipping?

My third concern, which might be something that is completely normal, is sometime when I'm idling,car in neutral just chilling, when the bass hits my rpms will dip from around 900 to 700 or so and will bounce up and down
 

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What amp are you using?

It sounds like your gains are set way too high.

Where is the amp grounded?

You need to pull the deck and make sure that it is wired correctly.

What gauge is the amp power wire and the ground wire?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What amp are you using?

It sounds like your gains are set way too high.

Where is the amp grounded?

You need to pull the deck and make sure that it is wired correctly.

What gauge is the amp power wire and the ground wire?

Thanks for the advice. Sorry forgot about the amp, Its A clarion 350 mono block. The power wire is 20 gauge I believe, Not sure what the ground wire is but I know that it is thicker. Its grounded to where the stock subwoofer mount(the black piece of metal that is bolted to the chassis that sticks out) its mounted to that with a ring. as for the gain Its not too far up. The reason I think the ground and gain is all fine is because this problem just started to occur. and I havent messed with the ground or gain, but I will give them a look tomorrow morning and let you know if that helps any prolly back the gain down a little bit.

Also any ideas or thoughts on the rpms bouncing up and down when idling and the white nosie comming from the speakers[scratch]?
 

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Thanks for the advice. Sorry forgot about the amp, Its A clarion 350 mono block. The power wire is 20 gauge I believe, Not sure what the ground wire is but I know that it is thicker. Its grounded to where the stock subwoofer mount(the black piece of metal that is bolted to the chassis that sticks out) its mounted to that with a ring. as for the gain Its not too far up. The reason I think the ground and gain is all fine is because this problem just started to occur. and I havent messed with the ground or gain, but I will give them a look tomorrow morning and let you know if that helps any prolly back the gain down a little bit.

Also any ideas or thoughts on the rpms bouncing up and down when idling and the white nosie comming from the speakers[scratch]?
Well your RPM's bouncing down and back up when the bass hits is normal, it happens because your amp is drawing more current than your alternator is putting out at idle, so it creates a "drag" on your belt from the alternator. That in turn makes your engine lose RPM from the drag on the belt and if you are driving and this happens you will notice a loss of power (HP) from the drag as well. Even with my 270A alternator I have this problem. Anybody that has any system, even the ones that do competitions or are sort of famous on youtube have this same issue if they are pulling too much power to their amps and the alternator has to have time to make the output higher. That's why mine drops, even when the bass is constant it will drop and then a second later it will go to normal once the computer in my car tells the alternator "hey, put more current out!" lol...

As for the noise from the speakers I am not too sure about, but that "popping" noise you said you have when you turn up the volume on your headunit each click, my friend had a Sony Headunit, and I've had a few that had this same thing going on, I don't know how to fix it, but I think it has something to do with the RCA outputs balancing out or something...not sure.

Good luck on this stuff though!
 

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You have to remember that your sound system is load to the existing electrical system. Your alternator produces a certain amount of amps which allows all electrical items to operate. The battery not able to start the car may be due to old age or the battery terminals are corroded or dirty.

First I would make sure my terminal posts are thoroughly clean apply dielectric grease, and sufficiently torque to OE specs. You may need to go to your local shop to determine the health of the battery. If it still has plenty of life, then proceed on. If not, have it replaced. MOST IMPORTANT, if you listening to your sound system while the car is off, then knock it off. You ruining your battery and there are so many times the battery can accept any more jump starts. If you dual battery setup, then you may get away with it.

It is also wise to perform the Big 3. Check the condition of the serpentine belt and belt tensioned can all lead to insufficient supply of the alternator because it is a closed loop system. If one slips or fails, than they all slips and fails –get it?

Gazookz, we have different approach to both the fluctuating rpm and sub issue. You may be a SPL guy and if you are, then you’re in that outer fringe areas of no return (hahaha, just joking). But I disagree with your statement, “Anybody that has any system, even the ones that do competitions … have this same issue…” To me it is NOT normal to have this issue even on simple amp systems. IF this issue present, then system is poorly design in several areas. You did nail it with your statement, “if they are pulling too much power to their amps and the alternator has to have time to make the output higher.” Mitch stated you are using 20 gauges for the amp, correct? Well if so WAY FRIGIN’ too small gauge wire for the amount of draw that your amp is able to produce. All this which in turn, makes your sub NOT operate and sound correct. In your case, wider diameter is better. For example, which is better, sucking a small diameter straw or a bigger diameter straw? Bigger allows more flow of content to travel through; in this case, its electrons. If you can, step up to 4-6, 10 gauge wire for both power and ground. Make sure it comes from the same company (JL Audio, Scoche, and Monster Cable)

Popping sounds is like Freemind mentioned. Mitch, have you set your gain with the state below? The gains setting sound like that they’re place too high for the amp’s sensitivity ratings. If you already know this, then please disregard.

-Set you deck adjustments to 0 (high, mids, lows)
-Turn the volume up to 75-80% (Example: if the volume goes up to 40, then you may need to calculate 75-80% of 40, which is a setting of 30-32)
-Use pink noise to tune your system, max out the volume with amp gains down.
-Adjust the gains up until it starts to clip or distortion. Once clipped, and then adjust down a wee bit.
-Turn volume down> play music> adjust the volume up incrementally towards max.
-Check your speakers' for any clipping.
-If needed, adjust the gains up or down one or two times.
-If you reach this point, LEAVE THE GAINS ALONE!
-Now use the deck adjustments that suits you music taste.

I hope this may help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
wow thanks for the load of info thumper X I actually just got a new battery so that is fine I ended getting supere frustrated and tore the entire system out replaced all the speaker wire for the subs with bigger wire I checked my power wire and it is thicker then what I previously mentioned I moved my ground to another spot directly touching the chasis and teh subwoofer problem is solved.

BUT my one remaining problem is the speaker fuzzyness which im assuming is do to the headunit not putting out enough power for the speakers prolly should throw an amp in again thanks for the help from everyone any sujjestions to fix the speaker fuzzyness besides an amp would be great
 

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wow thanks for the load of info thumper X I actually just got a new battery so that is fine I ended getting supere frustrated and tore the entire system out replaced all the speaker wire for the subs with bigger wire I checked my power wire and it is thicker then what I previously mentioned I moved my ground to another spot directly touching the chasis and teh subwoofer problem is solved.

But my one remaining problem is the speaker fuzziness which I'm assuming is do to the head unit not putting out enough power for the speakers probably should throw an amp in again thanks for the help from everyone any suggestions to fix the speaker fuzziness besides an amp would be great
Cool that you got ahead of the game by purchasing a new battery. Again check everything (engine wise)to make sure you have no other possible issues.

Great that you moved the chassis ground. Don't forget to scratch away any paint (top and bottom), use a 3/8 bolt & nut with star washer (on top). This will insure you're getting best supply of electrons. The length of the ground wire should be on the short side, no more than 18-20 inches.

OK, moving to your speaker issues. Fuzziness, eh? Do you mean there's a lack clarity of the musical content or there's type of speaker noise/s? From your statement, if you're using the internal head unit's amp, then you're experiencing the maximum potential of the head unit amp's compared to the sub amp. Here, you may want to set up and purchase a 2-4 channel amp. Then you can have power balance between front stage speaker group to the sub group.

Keep us informed to your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cool that you got ahead of the game by purchasing a new battery. Again check everything (engine wise)to make sure you have no other possible issues.

Great that you moved the chassis ground. Don't forget to scratch away any paint (top and bottom), use a 3/8 bolt & nut with star washer (on top). This will insure you're getting best supply of electrons. The length of the ground wire should be on the short side, no more than 18-20 inches.

OK, moving to your speaker issues. Fuzziness, eh? Do you mean there's a lack clarity of the musical content or there's type of speaker noise/s? From your statement, if you're using the internal head unit's amp, then you're experiencing the maximum potential of the head unit amp's compared to the sub amp. Here, you may want to set up and purchase a 2-4 channel amp. Then you can have power balance between front stage speaker group to the sub group.

Keep us informed to your progress.
Ill have the source on my head unit set to auxilary or cd but I wont have any music playing and then ill turn it up to around 30 and I get a white noise sound... dont notice it when playing music though like you said Im guesing its the headunits amp... I have a kenwood 4 channel amp Im about to install to take care of it
 

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Ill have the source on my head unit set to auxilary or cd but I wont have any music playing and then ill turn it up to around 30 and I get a white noise sound... dont notice it when playing music though like you said Im guesing its the headunits amp... I have a kenwood 4 channel amp Im about to install to take care of it
Great that you have a 4 ch amp. Remember when you install the 4 ch amp to: use RCAs (no high level speaker output lines), route the RCA away from any power line sources, If possible use the same ground bolt or in same vicinity area, may need a power line distributor block, main power line from battery positive is twice the gauge size from the distributor block to amp, and have sufficient air or area for the amp to cool.

If you get the dreaded alternator noise, chime back, and we'll work that kink out.

Don't forget that you're have fun while you're figuring all this out!
 
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