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Discussion Starter #1
There's a 03 SVT Focus that I checked out cuz i'm interested in purchasing one. this particluar one has the euro package with only 22000 miles. here's a shot of the underhood. you guys are the experts here and tell me what you think? what kinds of things should i be on the lookout for specifically with the SVT models and also how reliable are carfax checks?!

 

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Supercharged
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Anybody can clean a car up to look top notch but there isn't an accurate way to indicate its current condition of the drivetrain. Just do a few searches on the TSBs and try to talk to the previous owner if you can.

I saw overspray under one of my fenders and wouldn't buy the car until I talked to the previous owner.
 

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Run the vin number and like hillyard said, try and check with the previous owner or atleast get a vehicle history report. If it all checks out, get it! These cars are a blast to drive and the EAP have some of the best factory seats and are heated.
 

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"I see a cool air intake, it’s got a NOS Fogger system, and a T4 turbo, Dominick. And a ten thousand dollar fuel managment system"

BONG!

Hahaha, I'm sorry I couldn't resist [:D]

Definately have a look at TSBs (that's Technical Service Bulletins in Ford-speak) they outline any recall or trouble issues that have been found on a car. A dealer may be able to hook you up? Then discuss any issues with the owner. Search around the forum too, there are lots of threads discussing issues people are currently having. Good luck!

BTW, [welcome] to Focus Fanatics!!
 

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FF's Night Security
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carfax is'nt has reliable had people think. Take my case. I bought my car carfax report said everything was good. After alwhile after getting to know my focus I noticed that my front radiator was bent (still is too pretty bad) but the report said no accidents well they were. If they don't make a police report or car insureance claim then it will never show up. I'm lucky that the damage was'nt too bad though car drives strait now. But thats why my car had european bumpers on it was because it was in a wreak so instead of fixing it through the insurance they just slaped some different bumpers on it. Also my car was raced before I got it (I eventully found a friend of the previuos owner) and he told me alll sort of interesting stuff. my car came with seats out of a sedan I could'nt fold them forward to get into the back. I was missing bolts and heats shield for intake and exhaust. Now I"m putting all the stuff the previous onwer had put on the car back on. Long story slightly longer I would buy that SVT in a heartbeat they only made so many of them and ones with the EAP are even rarer. still not sure take it to a body shop or mechanic to have them check out for any repairs that might have been done to the car.
 

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WhiteSTguy
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04OrangeSVT said:
Run the VIN and if its legit, buy that thing. Love my SVT. and you gotta get the best color... orange
my words exactly!
best and rarest of all the colors too, if everything is legit and the price is good, buy it quick as it will go fast.
 

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Here is EXACTLY what you should do. I just bought the same car, color and everything, (mines not EAP though). Anyway, do this.

Get a carfax. They ARE reliable for what they post. Of course they can't show anything that was never reported, but chances are, if it wasn't reported and is THAT bad, you'll be able to tell.

Take the VIN#, and send it to b16sir1991, (user on this site). Kindly ask him to run the OASIS report on your car. He works at a ford dealership, is very familiar with the focus, and he can run your OASIS and WARRANTY report. This will give you specifics of what was done to the car evertime it was in the shop. It can also show you how long your warranty is good for. Chances are it's ALMOST up if not over. This gives you a lot more info about the cars history.

Take a LONG testdrive. I'm talking, 20 minutes - 45 minutes. Play with everything. As soon as you start the car, put it in neutral, let out the clutch, and listen for a rattling flywheel. (CLUTCH TSB). Also, as you turn the car over, and back off a few times with your driver side door open, listening for a cliicking/whirring. (DSI CLIP).

Give yourself an ENTIRE WRITTEN checklist when you go to buy the car. Looking for shit in the tailpipe, overspray, body panel gaps, interior panel rattles/fitting, check EVERY switch, and on and on and on. Keep looking. Anything you find you can use as ammo to bring the price down. And be ready to walk off the lot WITHOUT the car. there's more out there. I told 3 dealers to shove it before I bought my SVT at the 4th.

Call FORDSVT. 1800FORDSVT (i think), and get your build number.

DO ALL OF THE ABOVE BEFORE YOU BUY THE CAR.

Now you have a TON of info on the car the dealer won't necessarily expect you to have. Not all car dealers are shady, but they all make their money from selling cars, and they're good at it. For every thing you find on the car you don't like, the price should come down. If the price doesn't come down, have them throw in something, (floormats, gas, matching metal valve caps, new wiper blades, topping off of the fluids, SOMETHING). As soon as you budge, he'll know he can budge you more and more.

When talking about the price, tell him that when you give him an offer, you are talking about the FINAL PRICE, OUT THE DOOR. no BS taxes or fees. If there are these fees, (which are all a joke), than they should be INCLUDED in the end price of the car, not tacked on.

Chances are, if you're polite, but ADAMANT about these things, the dealer will see that 1, you are VERY interested in the car if you've done this much research, and 2, he can't fool you on anything. This tells him, "You can move this car off the lot today, rather quickly and I'll be out of your hair, if you're fair with me."

Don't budge, i didn't budge at all. And when the dealer tacked on $50 saying he couldn't let the car go for any lower, (after 5 minutes of negotiating), I told him, give me a full tank of gas, a vacuum, wash the car, top off my fluids, and give me some matching metal schradder valve caps, and you've got a deal. Boom, car sold. And i got WELL worth my extra $50 IMO.

I ended up paying $50 more than the exacct price i was looking for, but i got the extras.


If you DO buy the car, and you've got a little time left on the warranty. Drive it NON STOP, and keep reading/posting here. If it's 1am and you can't sleep, go waste 3 gallons of gas, everynight. This will enable you to find/check ANYTHING that might be wrong with the car, so you can take it in ONE LAST TIME for warranty work, and get it taken care of. Mines at the shop right now getting a new flywheel, master cylinder, tune, and about 4 rattles checked out, plus they might be getting a WHOLE new transmisison, all 3 weeks before the warranty is up.

good luck.
 

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I absolutely love my SVT. I haven't seen how much. Check Kelley Blue Book or NADA or something. Follow the good advice already posted above and if everything checks out buy it.

These cars are the most ang for the buck. Period. Today I changed the oil and took it out for a spin. I stopped in at the local Ford dealers. They had some nice Mustangs. One sweet white one for $29k MSRP. As nice as it was for the money the Focus SVT is a better deal.

This car is so great I don't know why I keep wanting to buy more goodies for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
SVT_CLARITY said:
Here is EXACTLY what you should do. I just bought the same car, color and everything, (mines not EAP though). Anyway, do this.

Get a carfax. They ARE reliable for what they post. Of course they can't show anything that was never reported, but chances are, if it wasn't reported and is THAT bad, you'll be able to tell.

Take the VIN#, and send it to b16sir1991, (user on this site). Kindly ask him to run the OASIS report on your car. He works at a ford dealership, is very familiar with the focus, and he can run your OASIS and WARRANTY report. This will give you specifics of what was done to the car evertime it was in the shop. It can also show you how long your warranty is good for. Chances are it's ALMOST up if not over. This gives you a lot more info about the cars history.

Take a LONG testdrive. I'm talking, 20 minutes - 45 minutes. Play with everything. As soon as you start the car, put it in neutral, let out the clutch, and listen for a rattling flywheel. (CLUTCH TSB). Also, as you turn the car over, and back off a few times with your driver side door open, listening for a cliicking/whirring. (DSI CLIP).

Give yourself an ENTIRE WRITTEN checklist when you go to buy the car. Looking for shit in the tailpipe, overspray, body panel gaps, interior panel rattles/fitting, check EVERY switch, and on and on and on. Keep looking. Anything you find you can use as ammo to bring the price down. And be ready to walk off the lot WITHOUT the car. there's more out there. I told 3 dealers to shove it before I bought my SVT at the 4th.

Call FORDSVT. 1800FORDSVT (i think), and get your build number.

DO ALL OF THE ABOVE BEFORE YOU BUY THE CAR.

Now you have a TON of info on the car the dealer won't necessarily expect you to have. Not all car dealers are shady, but they all make their money from selling cars, and they're good at it. For every thing you find on the car you don't like, the price should come down. If the price doesn't come down, have them throw in something, (floormats, gas, matching metal valve caps, new wiper blades, topping off of the fluids, SOMETHING). As soon as you budge, he'll know he can budge you more and more.

When talking about the price, tell him that when you give him an offer, you are talking about the FINAL PRICE, OUT THE DOOR. no BS taxes or fees. If there are these fees, (which are all a joke), than they should be INCLUDED in the end price of the car, not tacked on.

Chances are, if you're polite, but ADAMANT about these things, the dealer will see that 1, you are VERY interested in the car if you've done this much research, and 2, he can't fool you on anything. This tells him, "You can move this car off the lot today, rather quickly and I'll be out of your hair, if you're fair with me."

Don't budge, i didn't budge at all. And when the dealer tacked on $50 saying he couldn't let the car go for any lower, (after 5 minutes of negotiating), I told him, give me a full tank of gas, a vacuum, wash the car, top off my fluids, and give me some matching metal schradder valve caps, and you've got a deal. Boom, car sold. And i got WELL worth my extra $50 IMO.

I ended up paying $50 more than the exacct price i was looking for, but i got the extras.


If you DO buy the car, and you've got a little time left on the warranty. Drive it NON STOP, and keep reading/posting here. If it's 1am and you can't sleep, go waste 3 gallons of gas, everynight. This will enable you to find/check ANYTHING that might be wrong with the car, so you can take it in ONE LAST TIME for warranty work, and get it taken care of. Mines at the shop right now getting a new flywheel, master cylinder, tune, and about 4 rattles checked out, plus they might be getting a WHOLE new transmisison, all 3 weeks before the warranty is up.

good luck.
WOW...thanks for that!!! Making a checklist ASAP!! also thx to everyone who has replied and chimed in with their opinions [thumb]
 

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The short throttle cable shows it's a late build.
 

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Take it for a test drive and make sure you don't hear anything in the tranny or feel the clutch slipping...stuff like that. You'll love the SVTF, especially with the euro package!! [:D]
 

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WhiteSTguy
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good way to test the clutch is to drive about 35mph in 5th or 6th and mash on the gas pedal. if the rpms go up and you don't really move, then the clutch is slipping. if you hear some type of rattle ( like a light gauge metal) then it's probably the heat sheilds which is like the most common noise problem with these cars.
 

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WhiteSTguy
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pspringe said:
The short throttle cable shows it's a late build.
mine looks shorter then his? does that make mine a later model then his? just really how much shorter are they?
 

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There was a running change, mid-03 to shorten the cable. The long cable rubbed on the valve cover. Ford thought the clutch alignment problems (resulting in the rattle and TSB) in the factory were corrected around the same time, but apparently more 03s and 04s turned up.

Edit: Orange, I have never seen one that short, did you buy the car new?
 

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ORANGE,
not sure exactly how it is on the SVT's but i'm aware of this cable. One of the guys at the Polaris g2g pointed his out to me tonight. Orange, seriously, it's like, 3.5ft long, from clip to clip. It's a JUMP rope.
I couldn't believe how long it was. I also couldn't believe when brokenfocus was showing me his new focus, that it was a 5-speed without a tach.

Sometimes Ford does things, and it makes me want to take a spoon, and shove it up my ass. Not because I enjoy it, but because if a MTX w/o a tach makes sense, so does annhilating myself with a spoon.
 

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My Cavalier had a stick and no tach. It's an economy car.
 
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