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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all. I am in the market for a new (to me) car and I think I've landed on the Mk3 Focus. Somewhere around the 2012 to 2014 area. I know a bit about their history with transmission and clutch issues in the autos, but from what I've read, the manuals were not affected.

So, with that said. I'd like to see what people think about how many miles I think I could get out of it before it gets to that unreasable repair cost part of it's life. 200k? 250k? 300k?

Also, in general, what are some things I should look for, and watch out for when shopping, or even after purchasing?

I'm looking at a few that are anywhere in between 80k and 120k miles right now because my budget is a bit tighter than I'd like, but I just want something reliable, and I owned an SVTF for a long while and it was one of the most enjoyable driving experiences, although not exactly fast.

They just seem like solid cars that I could count on. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!
 

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I have a 2013 Focus SE manual 5 sp. bought new in '13 and it has 122,000 miles.In the last few years I have had to replace both passenger side hub bearings,the thermostat/ housing assembly,and just two weeks ago the catalytic converter/exhaust manifold assembly.All not too bad except for the catalytic converter(what a piece of crap).I would have traded it for a needed new pickup instead of replacing that, but at 68 yrs old I didn't want new car payments and enjoy driving the manual Focus.
 

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2013 with around 130K. Fun to drive, inexpensive to maintain/repair and reliable as hell. Other than routine maintenance, I've done an O2 sensor and the passenger motor mount (common fail). Both of those were after 100K miles.
 

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I have a 2013 Focus SE manual 5 sp. bought new in '13 and it has 122,000 miles.In the last few years I have had to replace both passenger side hub bearings,the thermostat/ housing assembly,and just two weeks ago the catalytic converter/exhaust manifold assembly.All not too bad except for the catalytic converter(what a piece of crap).I would have traded it for a needed new pickup instead of replacing that, but at 68 yrs old I didn't want new car payments and enjoy driving the manual Focus.
That all mostly sounds like fairly routine stuff for something with over 100k, is it not? Were the repairs costly or just a PITA?
 

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If you get one make sure the tsbs are taken care of. There's one for the wiring harness and one for the evaporative emissions solenoid that can both cause stalling. The rear and right side motor mounts can wear out with relatively low miles, and can cause some drivetrain shuddering. Otherwise, it's been a fantastic car to drive. Just put new shocks on at 65k miles and it drives like new!
 

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"Just put new shocks on at 65k miles and it drives like new!"

Curious - are you driving on rough roads? I'm still on the originals at 130K.
 

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I have a 2013 currently with a manual transmission and 121K miles, which I purchased used at 40K. No issues so far other than having to replace the radio twice. (You can read about that debacle within Focus Fanatics). Aside from the radio, I've really enjoyed the car and would recommend it. Thankfully I did not purchase one with an automatic transmission. I am also developing some body bubbling around the rear wheel well, but I live in New England, so this is not unheard-of for a 7-year-old car. Replacement radios can be had on eBay for ~$120 and only take 5 - 10 minutes to replace.
 

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That all mostly sounds like fairly routine stuff for something with over 100k, is it not? Were the repairs costly or just a PITA?
The hub bearings were not to bad and occurred about a year apart.The thermostat was about $250 at the dealer ,but the catalytic converter /exhaust manifold was $2k at the dealer w/ both O2 sensors that I told them to replace also.This was about $900 labor.I couldn't do the repair myself and my trusted mechanic closed because he lost his lease .
 

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2013 Appearance Package (leather, ambient lighting and REAR Discs) 122K Has made front left rattling noise over speed bumps since new that I thought might be battery cover but you'd think upper ball joint. Just replaced Original battery after 7 years still working fine but I got a low battery warning which shut off radio after less than 5 minutes (but you could set headlights on battery power with no warning!) 16" aftermarket wheels + tires 9.8 lbs lighter per corner than OEM 17s. Original brake pads look like 30,000 but that's skilled manual driving. Terrible to have no vent without fan on and fogs up from ambient air. Never missed until once after the fuel pressure fix, but a couple of times the fuel range had dropped suddenly from 40-50 to teens or less - tank distortion?
 
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