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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I took my car to the dealership last week because I received the P0420 code that usually indicates catalytic converter issue.

The dealership told me they followed their technical service bulletin and before they could check the CC, they had to check the EVAP Surge Valve and it came back faulty. I spent 5 hours today trying to find it and I couldn't locate it. I checked under the hood and even by the rear axle. I tried finding youtube videos online but they all show a different looking surge valve, in locations I checked and nothing there.

I didn't want to get the part fixed at the dealership since it was going to cost $350. But if I can't locate it, I might just have to. The dealership did say that if after I replace this, I still get the check engine light, it may be my catalytic converter. My problem is that I am now at 79,300 miles. Hoping to get this fixed before I hit 80,000 and I'm past the federal warranty.

This is what the part I got from AutoZone looks like.
 

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Mine is mounted on the left side of the cylinder head, near the coil and the coolant housing. It uses vacuum lines so the logical place for it would be in the engine compartment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mine is mounted on the left side of the cylinder head, near the coil and the coolant housing. It uses vacuum lines so the logical place for it would be in the engine compartment.
I just went out there and tried to find it but couldn't. Is it under another part or hidden? Either that or I am just blind.
 

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Mine is attached to the coil mounting bracket and is quite awkward to reach. But I know there are variations across models - like Microsoft Windows, they just can't keep things in the same place ! Another area to look at is near the brake booster or close to the EGR if you have it installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The surge valve isn't covered. Going to find it and replace it soon though so if the catalytic converter is bad it will still be under warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, can someone confirm this is the surge valve for a 2012 Focus SEL? And if so, which hose goes where?

I still couldn't find it with the instructions above so I paid for a short term guide from Motorcraft services and with the FordTechService diagram, it tells me the blue thing is the surge valve, which looks a lot different than what I got from AutoZone, and what every other part place has as well. I also took pictures of the engine so someone could tell me if that's correct, as well as what the part looks like when I disconnected it. If I can't get this figured out, I'll just have to pony up the $300 to have the dealer fix it.



 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
One last thing. If the part I got from autozone is the correct part, does it matter which hose goes into which tube on the part? How do I figure out which way to hook them up?
 

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The part you're holding in your hand is the purge valve. It's a complete assembly and from the literature that I checked, the Ford part # is 9D289. I'm used to the single component unit that you bought but things must have changed quite a bit on the MK3.
 

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I'm having trouble two ways with the dealer explanation of how the purge valve is not covered under emission warranty............

(1) it is a direct part of the evap system and that is most definitely emission related and a bad purge faults it, purge not working then lets HC vapors pile up to then leak and emissions there for sure.

(2) if cat has a flaw and they think they have to go for purge first to guarantee THAT being flawed is not causing the code then the purge is also affecting cat output as well and therefore again affecting emissions directly. Even if that makes no sense their explanation linked the two and made it an emission warranty issue due to their faulty explanation. Or, the 0420 code IS a warranty issue, they then tell you the purge needs checking as direct result of the procedure and if it alone can make the code it is a direct cause of the code, they've trapped themselves with that.

I'd be having a somewhat more forceful conversation with the dealer, who is scamming you for extra charges in my view.
 

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The surge valve isn't covered. Going to find it and replace it soon though so if the catalytic converter is bad it will still be under warranty.
... I'd be having a somewhat more forceful conversation with the dealer, who is scamming you for extra charges in my view.
If the purge valve is bad then the car won't pass an emissions inspection (at least in California -- don't know about elsewhere), so I'm baffled how it could be not covered under the emissions warranty. [scratch] (I plan to read the warranty carefully to see what I can learn about that.)

One last thing. If the part I got from autozone is the correct part, does it matter which hose goes into which tube on the part? How do I figure out which way to hook them up?
How did this turn out? Did the valve work OK? Was the catalytic converter still bad?
 

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Hi, came across your problem with the purge valve solenoid. I am having the same issue. Did you ever figure out why the different purge valve compared to the OEM part or was that just a different part. Did correct your cars problem?
Thanks.
 

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Look at post #7 for the best pictures/description in this thread. The item pictured in the first post is for an earlier model of the Focus.

MkIII Problems section also has mention of Purge valve issues, often associated with fuel tank partial collapse on these.
 

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Hi, came across your problem with the purge valve solenoid. I am having the same issue. Did you ever figure out why the different purge valve compared to the OEM part or was that just a different part. Did correct your cars problem?
Thanks.
Not sure if this is relevant, but my 2012 was throwing P0131 and P2196 codes. Fuel gauge read incorrectly, idle all over the place, difficulty starting, and stalled once @ 15 mph. Changed purge valve, and all is well.
 

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Did the fuel gauge GO BACK TO READING CORRECTLY?

Trying to ascertain whether the tanks have a certain amount of structural give that could flex back out if not sucked in enough to permanently keep the metal/plastic deformed.
 

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Did the fuel gauge GO BACK TO READING CORRECTLY?

Trying to ascertain whether the tanks have a certain amount of structural give that could flex back out if not sucked in enough to permanently keep the metal/plastic deformed.
Sorry, haven't checked in to Focus Fanatics lately. Yes, the fuel gauge went back to reading correctly.
 

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I am having the same issue. 2012 focus SE hatchback. Post #1 is the part I bought from Autozone, as per the OBDII code. Is post #7 the correct placement? Why do the parts look so different. I would love some help! Thanks guys
 

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Post #1 is the wrong part, post #7 is the correct part & placement.
 
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