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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I have replaced the 2 bulbs of the liscence plate. It still does not light up. What could it be? I sprayed a litle of WD40 into the contacts to make sure they are not rusted.

At the moment I replaced the bulbs with new ones, they lighted up for 2 seconds, but now they don't light up.

Is there a fuse that controls the liscence plate lights alone?
This forum is very helpful!

Thanks.
 

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There should be. Check the manual (Ford website). Since the bulbs light for 2 sec and die, i think you have a short somewhere and you are frying the bulbs.
 

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This is def. sounding like a short somewhere in the wiring. I'm guess this because you said that it lights up for a second upon installing new bulbs, than dies.

good luck man! please keep up posted as to what the problem was when you find out
 

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do you have a sedan or hatchback???
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
do you have a sedan or hatchback???
I have a wagon. I want to know if there is a fuse for the liscence plate light and if yes where is it located.

Also, I noticed that water can easily drips into the contacts since when I took the bulbs out, they were kinda wet, as they are rusting out the contacts also.
 

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I have a wagon. I want to know if there is a fuse for the liscence plate light and if yes where is it located.

Also, I noticed that water can easily drips into the contacts since when I took the bulbs out, they were kinda wet, as they are rusting out the contacts also.
same thing happened to me with the water in my sedan. it burnt my bulbs out. replaced them and they work now.
 

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its common for them to rot around that area, the trim piece lets water behind it and it drips within the hatch which causes the contacts/clips to corrode/break
water on the bulb and contacts won't short the wiring unless it's corroded and the wire breaks..
the distance from the clips to the body and the clip to the other clip is to far

check the loom aswel that goes from the body to the hatch its common for the wires to deteriorate within that rubber sleeve, I found a few broken ones in one hatch the other wagon had 2 broken wires and severe corroding

as for the license plate light fuse it's located in slot #62 located on the fusepanel below the dash and should be a 7.5amp fuse

here is a picture of the wiring I'm referring to
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There is no fuse located in #62 on drivers side fusebox. I have a 01 Ztech Wagon. Are you sure it's #62? My #62 is empty and not used (meaning no metal contacts is socket).
 

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Interesting, i have just checked the online version for my 2003 focci and #62 is the right fuse. However when i open up a 2001 manual there is no such thing as license plate lamp fuse in the manual.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/results.asp

Check it out for yourself. I have a feeling that license plate bulbs are connected to something. Check other things in the back to make sure they are working. Ex trunk light, brake lights, turn signals and etc. see if anything is out.

good luck.
 

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I pulled that off my 01 manual let me go out in the mornin throw a battery in my parts wagon and start yanking fuses, my 2000 manual shows no fuse for #62 and there no label for it....
 

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TYVM XD prolly saved me from freezing my rear to something fishing around that small little opening called a fuse box access XD

ROTFL and they found the cause which was the harness bundle in the batch of wires going from the body to the hatch (good grief this is a safety epidemic yet ford only recalled one portion of cars yet both my 01's are severely degraded x.x and its NOT recalled)
 

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could just hardwire them to the tail lights.
 

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one problem to wire them to the tail lights he will have to remove the plastics on the right side and run a jumper from it to the tail light loom, and half the plastics that hold the headliner up theres no wires in that bundle that have a constant power on

money says its a broken wire in the hatch itself or a broken/shorting wire in the bundle going from the body to the hatch

what the wires consist of in that bundle
2x grounds
1x rear glass defroster
1x license plate lights
1x trunk release solenoid
1x trunk open sensor
1x third brake light
(if equipped)
1x rear window wiper motor feed
 

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well it was just a suggestion. i did that im my old pickup probably 4 years ago and ive never had a problem. that poor old thing is so jerry rigged together lol. duct tape and chewing gum are all that hold it together
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I save the day. I don't get people that don't use search...

"Fuse 32 also feeds the license plate lamps. Sometimes those get wet & corroded inside; might be worth a look." - FocusDog

Check out this thread.
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81611&highlight=license+plate+bulb+fuse
Thanks. My fuse #32 is OK. That fuse controls all the exterior lights, when I pulled it, none of the exterior lights work, so I put it back. That makes me think that I might have a corroded liscence plate wire.
 

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well it was just a suggestion. i did that im my old pickup probably 4 years ago and ive never had a problem. that poor old thing is so jerry rigged together lol. duct tape and chewing gum are all that hold it together

hey I'm not questioning or saying its wrong.. I was just stating its harder on the FOCUS to do it that way... Ive wired it just like that on many cars before just cuz the wires were right there

lol do you still have the jerry rigged truck if so I would love to see pics of it [drinking]


Thanks. My fuse #32 is OK. That fuse controls all the exterior lights, when I pulled it, none of the exterior lights work, so I put it back. That makes me think that I might have a corroded liscence plate wire.

I put my money on that aswell as I read you mentioned EVERYTHING else worked on the car which led me to say check the harness from the body to the hatch because they do break cleanly and will intermittently work.. the wires are so tight and bunch ed up by slamming the trunk may short the broken ends together ut when they heat from resistance they will break apart again

I had a cop tail us and say your third brake light will work then stop working then work and issued a Fix-It and when I pulled the rubber boot away i could see the break and just by touching the bunch of wires would turn the brake light on and off ( I jumpered the brake pedal switch to keep the brake lights on as i diagnosed the problem

as you mentioned you also replaced the bulbs and they DID work for a short time.. if the wire broke within the hatch its open space and it would be no chance of a fluke that the wire reconnected and broke off again
 

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Thank you. Also applies to Ford Focus sedan model. Connection to trunk at lower left. Make sure you unhook battery terminals first! Battery ground (black) off last, back on first. 4 of my 6 wires were split. Other two just showed wear but you could see copper. Be diligent. Plan for half a day. Check ALL fuses under the drivers side lower left compartment fuse box afterwards. Method: I cut the damaged 2 and I used a stripper on all six, wires stripped using 16 gage slot, butt connectors and crimper didn't hold wires steady, so I just used the twist together with a heat shrink tube on each twist. Then electrical tape on each and full coverage electrical tape around all six. Adjust the trunk connector piece by cutting off the wire holder section and adjusting plastic and rubber piece to allow for more play. Split the side using garden shears to reattach after all work done. Allowing for more play will prevent this from happening again.Take the time and buy all this stuff at local favorite store. In Canada, Canadian Tire has it all. They even have the small torch with lighter type fuel on sale for $17.99 TAKE YOUR TIME. Get everything first: Total cost $42.00 including mini-torch, 16 gage heat shrink tubes, stripper, electrical tape. Do it yourself, save a fortune. The result is awesomeness. I was going to add a picture but this post I am thanking and this reply covers it. Side note: all wires are color coordinated. 2 look similar but with close inspection they are main black with orange stripe, and main orange with black stripe. All the best. In this case patience will win the day!
 

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Thank you. Also applies to Ford Focus sedan model. Connection to trunk at lower left. Make sure you unhook battery terminals first! Battery ground (black) off last, back on first. 4 of my 6 wires were split. Other two just showed wear but you could see copper. Be diligent. Plan for half a day. Check ALL fuses under the drivers side lower left compartment fuse box afterwards. Method: I cut the damaged 2 and I used a stripper on all six, wires stripped using 16 gage slot, butt connectors and crimper didn't hold wires steady, so I just used the twist together with a heat shrink tube on each twist. Then electrical tape on each and full coverage electrical tape around all six. Adjust the trunk connector piece by cutting off the wire holder section and adjusting plastic and rubber piece to allow for more play. Split the side using garden shears to reattach after all work done. Allowing for more play will prevent this from happening again.Take the time and buy all this stuff at local favorite store. In Canada, Canadian Tire has it all. They even have the small torch with lighter type fuel on sale for $17.99 TAKE YOUR TIME. Get everything first: Total cost $42.00 including mini-torch, 16 gage heat shrink tubes, stripper, electrical tape. Do it yourself, save a fortune. The result is awesomeness. I was going to add a picture but this post I am thanking and this reply covers it. Side note: all wires are color coordinated. 2 look similar but with close inspection they are main black with orange stripe, and main orange with black stripe. All the best. In this case patience will win the day!

Holy crap.. 8 year old thread revival xD i still repair the harness's i remove them... i'm eventually going to go grab a number of them (few zx3, sedans and wagons) and rebuild the boot portion with better wire and offer them to members for a small fee and their old harness and basically repair them and re-offer them (cost will also cover replacement of all the little pressure clips that get buggered when pulled out of the body holes)
 
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