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Discussion Starter #1
I recently rebuilt my engine, the car is Roush turbo kit equipped. I have been breaking it in on the weekends, running it in the driveway a couple times a day for about 10 mins then driving it as well for about 5 miles. I have been doing this for 3 weeks now this is my fourth week.

It hasnt been taken past 5 grand and I have never given it more than half throttle and its seen its 7 pounds of boost roughly 12 times or so up to 5 grand or so. So here is the deal:

Start up car, let it warm up a bit, turn it off, come back 20 mins later start it gonna go to wendy's for food.

Pull out on main road go through first gear, get into second. It goes into roughly 5 lbs of boost and it goes haywire! It sounds like the turbo stops spooling and makes this weird whooshy sound, car shakes and throttle goes CRAZY!

I let go of the throttle and the car keep revving and sits at a curtain rev area. I take it out of gear and coast to a stop into a parking lot. I could not get the rev to stop so i turned off the key.

When turning the car on, it revs twice then stalls!

I checked for vacuum leaks, everything is in tact. No sensors fell off or anything. Throttle cable is in tact and functional.

When I start up the car and give it gas, like full gas, it doesnt steady rev it just jumps up and goes back down again then stalls, but when revving, i can hear a kinda whistle-like spinning sound coming from what i would think would be the turbo. There are no Mechanical grinding sounds, the engine doesnt seem in distress.

What, if anything, could be wrong with the turbo housing that may cause something like this? Ive been told just now that it could be a vacuum leak but nothing is missing on the back of the intake manifold. All in all, i REALLY need some help to try and figure this all out and get the tune cleaned up a little bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh yeah, and on my Xcal2 before this happened a few days ago I got some DCT codes:

P1000 Monitor
Check not Comp

P1506 Idle Air
Ctrl Ovrspd Er

I plugged in my xcal after this happened and the same codes exist.. no additional codes.
 

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Would you be able to give us some pics of your setup? What kind of Blow Off Valve are you using? I've seen BOV's stick open and cause all sorts of problems. What tune are you running? Does this problem happen every time you drive?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The BOV is the standard one that comes with the kit.. Im sure its Bosh brand. It connects from the inlet to the intercooler pipe. I will get some pics in a bit when i go back to try and spray starter fluid around the vacuum areas during its starting. Im running the stock roush tune... Less the EGR, removed the rev limiter and such. EGR is removed on my car, as a result it is turned off through the tune via Ray @ mcnews and the 4 vacuum connections on that the connections connect to are capped off. Every one of my vacuum lines are secured with zip ties.
 

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Umm. I am no turbo expert by any stretch. But it sounds like your pressure relief valve (the pop-off ??) is not opening, or not opening soon enough. The clue is the whooshing noise. That is the sound a turbo makes when the turbo fan reaches maximum static pressure (It's not pumping anymore so it's freewheeling). I was just reading about this last week. I will try to find the page again for you.
 

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OK! it was on wikipedia. But I havn't found the exact page yet. search "turbocharger". It's one of the reference links if I recall correctly. This link deals with blowoff valves. I will keep looking.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blow_off_valve
 

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Well crud! I cannot locate the page. Starting to doubt if it was wikipedia now. From what I recall then. The wastegate does not open in time. The intake continues to build pressure until it stalls. When a turbo stalls, it makes a unique "whooshing" noise. but I would think you would see this on your pressure gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ahhhh.. makes plenty of sense! I didnt get out last night but I am now, i will have pictures shortly. How do you suppose I check the BOV? I have an old one from my Vortech Supercharger kit, maybe that would work.. it seems to be of the same type.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, I swapped out the BOV for the vortech one.. they are the exact same. I blew into the vacuum hose going form that to my intake manifold. Its clear of dibree. It runs from the BOV to a T fitting on the intake manifold to the upper left device that the larger hard hose runs to. The thing that has that cap that can be unscrewed and is orange in color. Perhaps it may still be an opening problem with the BOV since its T-fitted to that and that might not be working properly. I can NOT find my camera but im searching and as soon as I do ill take a number of pictures and post them.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Haha, i found the problem! I do not have my EGR on my car and I put in a round cut of PVC pipe cap in the hole in the back of the intake manifold and pasted it with high tack plastic fusing epoxy. I had it like that running 7 lbs boost on my Vortech SC setup for 7 months and a few months on my turbo setup before I rebuilt my lower half. So, just got weak and blew out lol!

Ill post pics if I can find them of my EGR intake manifold patch job =) Just need to get car home, take off the IM and plug that damn hole!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This is the EGR hookup that is normally connected when active:


I removed it and pluged it up with a piece of PVC cap and high streangth epoxy which held under boost for about a year or more before blowing out on me:
 

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So it was a vaccum leak. Just a very large one?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes... VERY VERY LARGE! You see, the only reason why I found the problem was because I stood out at the engine while someone started it as I sprayed starting fluid around the intake manifold. At that point, I noticed it was EXTREAMLY loud. So I figured there was a huge opening that was allowing all that combustion sound to travel. Also, I noticed that the boost gauge needle wasnt moving negatively or positively so I figured that the hard vacuum line had snapped in half so I disconnected it and capped the hole off. That didnt solve the problem then I noticed the hole that was tough to spot. Ran a silicon hose into it and it didnt stop so I knew the piece had come out and I had my problem.

Thanks a ton for the advise though, a buddy of mine said he had the same problem and it took him roughly a week to locate it. Although it was just one of the lower vacuum lines that shot off on his, I identified quicker im sure based solely on forum suggestions. Thanks again.
 

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In general, judging by the pic. I would suggest something like a freezeplug, epoxied, but also I would consider 3 or 4 (small) screws going through the housing and threading into the freezeplug. That would provide a solid seal and the screws provide shear strength. You want to use stainless steel screws and an epoxy that is immune to petrochems when set(Liquid steel as an example). So basically, the epoxy to provide a seal and the screws to provide mechanical strength.
This assumes you can get the piece out of the car for the repair of course.
Glad you found it. Frankly, I am suprised it even ran at all. The comp must have been going nuts! :)
 

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Scratch the above plz. I wasn't considering the environment! Problem is the huge temp range and the expansion/contraction coiefficient. Anything like epoxy is going to have issues eventually. What is the part made of?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I figured that drilling small holes along the outer rim then taping them with threads would do, although, the damned plastic is tough shit and would worry about splitting. Material is high heat plastic not sure on the specifics but I will have the intake manifold off to close the hole. The contraction and expansion is a big deal as well so maybe this plug up job will be a little more complicated than most would think.
 
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