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Hey, well one low beam isnt working (drivers side)

Both sides hi beams work just fine, just no drivers side low beam

I checked the low beam fuse 16 in the power distribution box and it was intact

I also changed the headlight bulb and nothing changed

Any ideas? it just stopped working out of nowhere
 

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Both my low beams stopped working. I have brights or nothing. I've pissed some people off like that. I'm pretty sure it's the bright/dim switch that's bad. (The one in the steering column) I'm not sure if that could effect only one headlight though. You could probably find one in the junkyard for really cheap. They're around $40 new.
 

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Just one not working with a new lamp? That sounds like it's a wiring problem. If both the high and low weren't working, then I'd guess it was a ground wire that was the problem, but since it's only the low beam- it's the hot. You might need a new socket, or repair some wiring. It's up to you to figure it out. I'd trace back the harness from the socket to the relay box. I am not sure where the wire splits off to go to the rt side, but that's one location where there might be a problem if no physical damage is found.
 

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Use a "test light" to check for power at the plug first, then work back from there...

A "multimeter" can give results that will fool you in this situation (it shows power, but there isn't enough current to light a bulb....).


Luck!
 

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My driver's side driving light/low beam went the other week as well. Same problem....tried 2 new bulbs from Ford and neither worked so it's another problem. Tech here at work (I work for Hyundai...) said there's power at the fuse (?) but he needs a wiring diagram to find/fix the problem.

Anyone know where I might be able to find and print off one from online?

In a related issue, I've had moisture in the same headlight for months now. Aside from drilling a hole in the bottom to vent it, any ways to stop that? I asked at the dealership months ago about replacing just the seal etc and of course, it was 'you've got to replace the whole headlight assembly blah blah blah $400...' deal.
 

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Use a "test light" to check for power at the plug first, then work back from there...

A "multimeter" can give results that will fool you in this situation (it shows power, but there isn't enough current to light a bulb...If .).


Luck!
A Mulitmeter is a glorified test light. Its not going to "fool" you in this case. Reason being, your saying not enough current is being supplied so there is still some current going through. If this were the case his bulb would light, just not as bright, but the bulb isnt working at all. Besides im sure the brightness of a test light ansd the brightness of a low beam headlamp bulb respond differently to amps

If your fuses are good, you always starts at the source and trace your wy through. Never start at the problem. You should be able to do this with a dsimple chilton manual and a test light/DMM
 

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A multimeter is NOT a glorified test lamp - go with Sailor's advice!
Good luck,
Monoblanco (45 years an electrical engineer, 55 years of fixing cars, 70 years old today)
 

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A multimeter is NOT a glorified test lamp - go with Sailor's advice!
Good luck,
Monoblanco (45 years an electrical engineer, 55 years of fixing cars, 70 years old today)
I know what i am talking about. The reason i said glorified test lamp is becuase people look at all the symbols on a voltmeter and get confused. Its just a calculator on the VOLTS setting, nothing crazy. Sorry, i should have been clearer

The reason i say this is because a test light is used by many who cant understand DMMs but i will admit its a quick check for power.

Does a test tell how exactly how much voltage your seeing, no it doesnt.
Test light DO NOT measure AMPS

Take my advice, get educated. Use a Digital mulitmeter . A test light will suffice, but i prefer a DMM. That way i know how many volts i am seeing and if theres a voltage drop ill be sure to catch.

How do you measure a voltage drop with a test light?
 

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I stopped over to the Ford dealership on my break (They're almost next door to where I work...) and got a wiring diagram for the tech where I work.

Tech at Hyundai is considering running a wire from the bad headlight to the good one and getting power that way. Says might have to end up tearing the dash apart to find the problem with the driver's side light. I'm not crazy about that idea, but also not crazy about possibly paying for 4 hours labour down at Ford (though I pay half posted rates, we're all owned by the same large automotive group).

Has anyone done what he's suggested and run a wire fro one light to the other successfully? [scratch]
 

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I would NOT rig up headlights to run that way. Fix the problem the right way.

Matt
 

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For EnjoithaRex (whatever)....

The point two of us were making, that you may NOT have run into yet, is that with PROPER voltage showing at the connection there MAY be a "poor" connection that will NOT flow enough AMPERAGE to even light a "test light", yet the DMM says the voltage is "OK".

It's A REAL WORLD scenario, that fools MANY mechanics who say 'gee, i SAW voltage there, but it still won't work.. (head scratch)....

Just a "word to the wise" from previous sad experience getting "fooled" the same way....

(grin)
 

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Dredging up an old post, but simplest fix in my case was buying a new (used) headlight assembly with attached wiring harness. My harness was corroded and the headlight had moisture it it as well, so just did the simple thing and replaced it all.

Total cost and labour was $242
 
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