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is this due to a leaking valve cover gasket every time when i go to clean the engine bay (once a week) it is like this. If so i need to know the torque specs for the valve cover bolts and the sequence i need to go in it is a 2003 Focus SVT. and what are those o-ring looking things arond the head of the bolt??

click on the image then it should come up clearer.
 

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is this due to a leaking valve cover gasket every time when i go to clean the engine bay (once a week) it is like this. If so i need to know the torque specs for the valve cover bolts and the sequence i need to go in it is a 2003 Focus SVT. and what are those o-ring looking things arond the head of the bolt??

click on the image then it should come up clearer.
Probably. That O-ring looking thing is - well, an O-ring. Should come with your replacement gasket. Easy to change, several how-tos on line. Don't know the torque values...
 

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yeah the keep oil from getting to your spark plugs :eek:) those O rings are shot when you pull out a plug. the plug will be soaked in alot of oil. but you get new ones anyways like said above with your gasket kit
 

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Yeah, just get a new set and you should be fine. The torque values sometimes come in the package. If not, check with the dealer when you pick it up and they can look it up for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just got off the phone with the dealership and the guy i talked to said that the o-ring things are called gromets and they are sold seprate. so would i need them and the valve cover gasket?
 

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Read all the howtos, faqs, and hire a mystic before doing your valve cover. My stealership made FIVE attempts at replacing my valve cover gasket before it stopped leaking. I too have a 2003 SVTF.

Good luck with your new valve cover gasket change.
 

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> My stealership made FIVE attempts at replacing my valve cover gasket before it stopped leaking

The key to gasket replacement is to be absolutely sure that every last little bit of the old gasket material has been removed, and the the mating surfaces are clean of oil. Mechanics in a hurry tend to be negligent in this area.
 

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> My stealership made FIVE attempts at replacing my valve cover gasket before it stopped leaking

The key to gasket replacement is to be absolutely sure that every last little bit of the old gasket material has been removed, and the the mating surfaces are clean of oil. Mechanics in a hurry tend to be negligent in this area.
I would think a dab of fresh oil on the seating surface of the gasket would promote a better seal, especially if its made of rubber. Sort of like when you install a new oil filter. Am I missing something, or?
 

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> Sort of like when you install a new oil filter.

The new filter oil on the seal is to (a) stop it from sticking the next time you take it off, and (b) since you are rotating the rubber gasket material, you want it to slip to avoid dmaging the seal. Neither of these factors apply for a valve cover gasket.

Clean will provide a better seal as the gasket material is compressed tighter, rather than thinning, "squishing," and sliding out the edges of the sealing surface (on a small scale, of course), e.g., on BMW oilhead motorcycles BMW is quite clear that the valve cover gaskets absolutely must be free of oil or they will leak.
 

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For valve cover, is it okay to use a high temp RTV instead of a gasket?

I am just addicted to using RTV that I even applied little to the thermostat assembly. The surface that goes to the engine block.
 

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> For valve cover, is it okay to use a high temp RTV instead of a gasket?

Should be OK, but then it is extra important that the surfaces be free of oil. One hint I might suggest... if I do something like this using only RTV (I prefer using gaskets myself), I only tighten the bolts finger tight. I then let the RTV cure overnight before I do the final torque down.
 

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I only tighten the bolts finger tight. I then let the RTV cure overnight before I do the final torque down
I am not sure if this is the proper way of using RTV. My thought would be, once the RTV has cured, it would stick to the surface. If more pressure is applied, the cured RTV will be compressed and may break the seal (or let's say stickiness) to the surface. Just a thought.
racerX100, let us know how it went. I may have to do the same thing in the future. Let us know if you used rubber gasket or hi-temp RTV.
Thanks..
 

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I see a little oil coming from my valve cover gasket much like yours, I'm not donig anythnig about it except just cleaning it when I wash my care, I dont notice my oil level ever going down so i'm not worried, After worknig with marine diesels for years i'm used to seeing every seal leak without hurting the engine.
 

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> Just a thought.

A reasonable thought. But the dimesional difference in the gap between finger tight and the recommended torque is rather small. Additionally, RTV functionally is see in these applications as "creating" a gasket, rather than being an adhesive between the two surfaces.

All I can do is pass along what's worked well for me over the years, perhaps what works for you is different.

There certainly is a wide difference in opinions though. One person says to oil the surfaces of a valve cover gasket, while another says waiting for the RTV of a valve cover gasket replacement to cure before final torquing might break the seal.
 
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